travis162

so my sisters boyfriend bought a 1993 toyota pickup for dirt cheap because it would bog down when you hit the gas. so we have been and trouble shooting and now we are at a complete loss.
at first, it would idle fine but if you hit the gas it would fall on its face.
if you hit the gas slowly it would drive around and what not but just no power. here is a list of stuff that we have done and then i will get into the problem at hand.
fuel filter
fuel pump
checked the maf
checked the tps
replaced temp sensor
plugs
wires
cap
rotor
fuel regulator
and then the fuel injectors (flamethower)
now it will not start, it will sputter if you play with the gas. i hit it with starting fluid and it comes to life but dies when you stop.
the injectors are getting power, the timing is on it just seems like its not building pressure.
i know there is some stuff that we have done tat i am forgetting right now.
it is throwing a code that is one solid with a pause and then four slow flashes.
what i got from it was the temp sensor, but it is brand new!
any info that you can throw my way would be greatly appreciated!!!

RSR

Check your AFM? Check for vacuum leaks?

What engine?

What color flamethrowers?

travis162

I have checked the afm and its a 3.0l v6.
The flamethrowers are orange.
I need to get a torch and then I'm going to check for vacuum leaks.

RSR

Right, on the AFM, in the FSM there's procedures to test the electronic sensors there w/ a multimeter. Just like you do the TPS and all the ignition components. I'd start w/ sensors. And check your grounds for corrosion.

Orange flamethrowers shouldn't be running rich. Did you check all of their resistance w/ your multi before installing?

Have you cleaned the throttle plate?

My guess is a bad vacuum leak somewhere. Or (outside chance) your O2 sensor.

Lastly, I'm figuring you did, but did you pressurize the fuel line? and check pressure before calling the fuel pump job done?

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

The rubber boot/hose going from the AFM to the throttle body is solid? No cracks or holes anywhere? Fittings tight?

travis162

the rubber boot going from the afm to the throttle body was one of the first thins we replaced. I checked the fuel pump with a volt ohm meter and its getting twelve volts. yesterday we tried a new coil, new ecu, put in a new cold start injector and a thermal injection sensor. we also put in a new distributor. the distributor was completely rusted under the rotor. we cleaned up all the grounds and replaced one. before we put the new injectors in the fuel pressure was good. we started out trying to fix the hesitation when you hit the gas. now we have no start. the timing is on but the only way it will fire is with the distributor all the way retarded. I didn't check the injectors before we put them in. I figured they we be fine. it ran before we put the injectors in. I have gone over all the vacuum lines like four times. im stumped!

travis162

btw it will run with staring fluid so im still guessing its a fuel issue.

travis162

ok, so we got it running but now we are back to the original issue of it bogging down when you hit the gas. I through a timing light on it and when it is idling it is right on. when you give it a little throttle it will jump way up and when you hit the throttle hard it will timing will be right on as well. it is backfiring through the intake wen you hit the gas hard.

billfinch01

I had the same scenario about 10 years ago. Even though I would have bet my life the timing was right, it turned out that I put the distributor in wrong.

travis162

So we put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see what we are getting and it's right between 36 to 38
It takes a while to build it up when there was no pressure in the rails. But here is the weird part, with the gauge connected it will rev all the way up.
When we put the regular banjo bolt back into the cold start it dies off when you hit the throttle.
I'm putting a new pulsating valve in to see ifaybe there is crap stuck in there
If anyone has some input on this I would be very thankful!

travis162

So it turned out to be the pulsation valve. Got it all pit together and in fired right up. It doesn't bog down or anything.

Kalihi,HI

Aloha from Hawaii, I've been working on my manual 94 pickup 3.0 4x4 (3VZE) since my fan bracket threw a bearing, froze up, and busted a belt. Prior to that however, I noticed a lack of power and when accelerating in 3rd or 4th gear, my RPMs would increase, but my speed would not. I have since changed a whole lot, including my water pump (was leaking) and timing belt, fan bracket obviously, VAFM (was bad) O2 sensor (also was bad), TPS, and valve cover gaskets. Since I had the plenum off for my valve cover gaskets I checked the resistance of my fuel injectors and they are all within spec. Upon reconnecting the injector connectors, I realized all the clips from all 6 connectors had broken off (from the previous owner) so I did the zip-tie fix for each connector. As I was doing that, I noticed all of the injectors can rotate freely (as the FSM says they should when reinstalling after removing the injectors to service/clean) except one is stuck and doesn't rotate at all (#2). I didn't do the stethoscope/screwdriver test before going in, so I just wanted to know before I button her back up, whether the stuck fuel injector is a sign that I should go deeper and remove my fuel injector(s) to refurbish/replace. Also is it possible that this is the cause of my power loss. Mahalo (thank you) for any advice and help.
-Joe