Pinion angle help
#1
Pinion angle help
So here it is my first build. i found an all pro lift with everthing for dirt cheap on craigslist and me being a newbie to building i couldnt pass it up. The lift is all pro 6 inch spring plus a 7.5 inch shackle
It simply sits way to high for my liking . it will be to top heavy on the trail and the pinion angles for the driveline are nasty
So my first question is about spring perch relocation on the front and rotating the knuckles . I understand moving the spring percehs but im a little lost about cutting the knuckles and moving them so the angles wiill be better.
My next question is ditching the all pro springs and doing a 63 rear and a 48 front swap and running a 7.5 shackles . Will This bring me down so the truck sits lower and still will clear the hy steer and will the leafs be just as durable as the all pros?


It simply sits way to high for my liking . it will be to top heavy on the trail and the pinion angles for the driveline are nasty
So my first question is about spring perch relocation on the front and rotating the knuckles . I understand moving the spring percehs but im a little lost about cutting the knuckles and moving them so the angles wiill be better.
My next question is ditching the all pro springs and doing a 63 rear and a 48 front swap and running a 7.5 shackles . Will This bring me down so the truck sits lower and still will clear the hy steer and will the leafs be just as durable as the all pros?



Last edited by TJW24; Nov 1, 2012 at 08:10 AM.
#2
Holy High Rise !!!!
Yea, way too high. Last thing you want to do is rotate your knuckles either by spring perch relocation or rotating the knuckles themselves. There are lots of options to explore first.. Re-spring with new or bastardized packs. Nothing wrong with the 63's and RUF's or all standard length used / new. I personally wouldn't run more than a 6" shackle, again my opinion. Anything past 5" should be braced.
Do a search on RUF's, tons of info on how-to's, experiences in adjusting ride height/comfort etc.
Yea, way too high. Last thing you want to do is rotate your knuckles either by spring perch relocation or rotating the knuckles themselves. There are lots of options to explore first.. Re-spring with new or bastardized packs. Nothing wrong with the 63's and RUF's or all standard length used / new. I personally wouldn't run more than a 6" shackle, again my opinion. Anything past 5" should be braced.
Do a search on RUF's, tons of info on how-to's, experiences in adjusting ride height/comfort etc.
#3
5" shackles.
Rotate the REAR spring perches.
Bastardize the leaf packs.
Reinforce front hangar or add a new one.
Shocks would help.
Cut all those junk useless brackets off. It makes it look like ass.
:wabbit2:
Rotate the REAR spring perches.
Bastardize the leaf packs.
Reinforce front hangar or add a new one.
Shocks would help.

Cut all those junk useless brackets off. It makes it look like ass.
:wabbit2:
Last edited by waskillywabbit; Oct 31, 2012 at 12:20 PM.
#4
All the useless brackets are off now. The front and rear were put on right after these pictures . What does bastardize the leaf packs mean?
Im thinking of doing the rufs and 63s and just ditching the all pros because is sits way to high
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f197...-build-259945/
Im thinking of doing the rufs and 63s and just ditching the all pros because is sits way to high
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f197...-build-259945/
#7
Yes, to a degree. You can pull the middle springs... it's a trial and error approach. Keep in mind that you want to control axle wrap so keep the bottom two springs in the pack as you develop the pack. It's a tedious process between spring R&I, pack construction, and test drives.
Let us know how it goes....
Let us know how it goes....
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#8
Ok thanks! I will give it a whirl . I want to get no more then 3 to 4 inches in lift out if the 6in lift spring , is this possible or am I wasting my time ?
Last edited by TJW24; Nov 1, 2012 at 08:13 AM.
#9
I took a 7" lift spring pack and reduced it to a 4" lift. It was a front spring set up. I did replace the second leaf (from the top) with a used leaf and also removed the third leaf. So yes it is possible. Again, it is a bit of work but you will learn quite a bit about spring packs !
#10
Forgot to mention... the new springs will settle over time. How fast is dependent on the quality of the spring material but 1 to 1/2 inches is not uncommon. i say this because you want to keep whatever you pull out and if your pack turns out to be 4 inches when you're done, it could settle to 3 inches over a year ( again, just a reference time frame )
#11
Awesome ! thanks , it is basically about pulling springs and replacing them to get what you want. What spring did you use for the second one from the top? I have been looking on here for days and everyone seems to use something different . i just want to get enough lift the clear the hy steer with out ripping the arms out and running nothing larger the a 35 tire
#12
It was out of a pack I had laying around. I think it was Trail Gear but it has been so long I don't remember. With 35's it will rub the inner pinch weld and firewall. You can "massage"" the firewall with a big hammer. Again its a massgae,check,massage,check etc. The axle will move back under compression hence the need to clearance. The other option is to move the axle forward which will require spring hanger relocation with stock length springs.
#13
The all pro front spring are designed to move the axle forward an inch already aren't they . As for now I will try to remove the third spring from the all pros like you said so they have 5 leafs . As of right now I have the stock rears on the front and they brough the truck down maybe half an inch and they have six leafs in them and still clears the hy Steer arms sittin on flat ground . Now for the rear all pros they have nine leafs , how many leafs would you suggest removing . I was thinking around two or three but I'm not sure
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