Ohhhhh.... do want

 

If im shopping for wheels/rims for my 92' yota 4x4 IFS what size bolt pattern wheel/rim am i looking for ??

Answered my own question with a little google action
1992 Toyota Pickup (4WD)
Bolt Pattern (in):
Bolt Pattern (mm):
Offset Range (mm):
Front Center Bore (mm):
Rear Center Bore (mm):
Stud_Size:
6x5.50
6x139.7
-10 to 20
106.1
106.1
12x1.5

 

6 lug Chevy 1/2 ton

 

Just got paid today and I'm getting ready to order a chit load of parts for my low buck 1991 Regular Cab 'Yota build-I'm getting a bunch of stuff but here are the relevant lift parts:

4Crawler 1.5" BJ spacers
4Crawler Diff drop kit
14" Black Magic Springs (ZUK mod for the rear)
Gabriel shocks 61549 Front/61642 Rear

I plan on ZUK'ing the rear first-all indications are that it's going to give me 3-4". Then I'll install the BJ spacers and then turn the T-bars up a 1/2", maybe a hair more. I don't mind if the truck has a little bit of a rake to it, but I don't want it looking like a drag car either. The truck has already been prepped by removing the plastic wheel wells, mud flaps, and stock bumper. All that's left to do is beat the pinch welds and do some of the same trimming described here:

http://www.brian894x4.com/33INCHTIRES.html

All of that is pretty straightforward, but what backspacing/width should I be going for? I'm looking to run 315/75/R16 Treadwright Guard Dogs:

https://www.treadwright.com/p-77-315...dog-m-t-d.aspx

Tread Depth - 19/32
Meas. Rim Width - 8.5"
Tread Width- 10.1"
Rim Width Range - 8"-10"
Max Load- 3,195 lbs
Outer Diameter - 34.7"
Max PSI - 50 PSI
Section Width - 12.2"

The author of the article of the no lift 33s page mentions that he went with 3.5" backspacing and that stock Toyota wheel backspacing is 4.5-5". I found some cheap 16x8 wheels from Jegs with the correct bolt pattern and 4" backspacing-anybody running a similar combo? At this point I'm committed to running 35s no matter what because with IFS up front its going to give me a TON of clearance, it's just going to be a matter of how much hacking I have to do to get them to fit.

 

Your gonna break somthin up front. IFS and 35's don't get along off road. 33's are ok but even require a gentle touch from the driver. 35's are just to much for our little cv's and 7.5'' diffs. Im sure a lot of people are going to chime in hear and say thats BS "I run 36's on my yota". Got news for you guys, your not really offroading, your playing in mud puddles or driving down the road. I've seen at least 5 yotas throw cv's or break diffs running 34's and up. You get the front end in any kind of bind and their simply not strong enough. Combine that with a heavy winch bumper and a locker, forget it!
I ran 33's for years, did awesome and only broke 1 cv, to many beers and havin to much fun. Just saying...

 

If your going to run 35's and IFS you had better know how to properly use the throttle. Those that are throwing diffs and cv's with 35's simply do not how to properly use the throttle. And you have to be really careful if your going to run a front locker.

Gearing has alot to do with it too. You can go though just as many diffs and cv's etc if your running 33's a doubler and 4.88's or other combos of really low gearing. Especially when improper use of throttle is taken into account.

As far as not wheeling hard enough, I don't think SCUBA has gone through alot of diffs and CV's on his. Nor has Axle Ike.

EXPERIENCE is everything when getting parts to hold up. I see too many people throwing parts and bigger tires at rigs to make them do better and be more reliable when the fact is if they had more seat time they'd be able to get a stock truck on bigger tires to hold up just as well.

 

Both of you make good points, but everyone's situation is different as well as how they use their rig. I'm not looking to build a world champion rock crawler or a hardcore wheeler that I'm going to thrash every weekend. I'm building a truck that will be able to get to some of the more out of the way places where I hunt and cut firewood. Most of these places are along skidder trails cut by the power company and are full of deep ruts and logging slash that likes to get caught in the undercarriage-ground clearance is the name of the game, hence the desire for 35s. I've been wheeling in one vehicle or another for going on fifteen years now so I have an idea of what I'm doing and what kind of throttle breaks parts and what doesn't. I'm also not really planning on a front locker-rear definitely, but I don't think the front will be necessary for my purposes. I appreciate the insight from both of you and hope that this thread generates more discussion about IFS and 35s-where are Rattlewagon and RougeYota?

 

Kinda where I was trying to go with that also. And knowing what your doing is the biggest part of it. You could probably get away with 38's on their if your carefull. Guess what I'm trying to say is, for best results build it so it doesn't have to be driven by an experienced wheeler just to avoid breaking parts. And I'm not saying make a tank out of it. Even the best built rigs could be wrecked by the wrong driver. But you don't want the weakest link to be your driving ability.

And there are some out there that wheel hard with 35's and IFS, but not very many, and not for very long. Hats off to the on's that are without breaking any parts though. Seat time, and really knowing the trucks limits.

 

IMO for what your describing, I think you'll be alright with that setup. Long as your not beatin on it. And the plus side is IFS parts are everywhere if you ever do break somthin.

 

Oh one more thing.. You gotta ask yourself: would I rather get stuck more often, or break in the middle of the woods. To me getting stuck is really not a big deal. Besides a chance to grab a beer. Winch, comealong, block and tackle, high lift jack, you'll get unstuck. But blowin a diff, or some major component thats gonna make your trip out twice as hard as your trip in. That sucks.

Ok I'm done blabbing. Thank for listinin

 

Another good point-I am planning on adding a winch sometime soon-a good one with a decent duty cycle and dual batteries could come in handy for moving logs, etc...in addition to extracting the truck if need be. This may all be a moot point anyway because I'm having a hard time finding a set of used 35s I have a buddy who works at a tire shop who does come across them from time to time when guys come in to change tires or upsize. He hasn't found a set yet though-I might have to settle for 33s. I'm still planning on going with BJ spacers and the ZUK mod though-they will give me more than adequate clearance for the 33s and I'll always be able to trade up one day.

 

Hi! Newbie here. Great place for info so thanks to all contributors.

2001 stock Tacoma.
Just purchased from Toytec:

3" Lift Kit w/OME front coils and rear lift options (Options: OME_881_standard_coils
Rear options: ToyTec_Rear_2_inch_lift_add-a-leafs
Front diff drop kit
Bilstein 5100 height adjustable front & rear 5100s 9504BILK
1 Extended Rear Brake Line
1 Power Steering Rack Bushing Kit
1 Zinc Rear Axle Shims (2.5 Degree)

UCA from Allpro

Mickey Thompson Classic II 16x8 4.4 back space

All I need now is tires...
I'm thinking Kelly Safari's 285 75 r16

Comments appreciated!!!

Kudos to toytec on great service! I ordered a mounting bracket seperate and before my order shipped they called me and said it was already included in part of the kit!
I received the email of my visa refund same day!
Shipping was fast and easy to track!

Allpro UCA s shipped a day later and landed 2 days later due to much greater shipping g distance to MT. Also easy to track shipment So I recommend them as well.

 

Sounds good. Thats what i have in the front of my 01, except I have toytec HD coils, heavy bumper dual batteries under the hood. But the rear you'll eventually just want to get new leaf packs. Reseon being is mostly axle wrap, your gonna have it with lift blocks, and even worse IMO with Add a leafs. It picks the rest of the springs off of the overload (bottom leaf). And that bottom leaf it what really controls the axle. Not to mention AAL's kill all the other leafs around it. Personally id just throw a tapered 2.5'' block in their for now until you get ahold of some chev 63's or alcans, or whatever. Theres tons of threads whats better. Mostly depends on what your using it for. And 33's fit awesome.

Heres a couple pics of mine.





She sites pretty level, just a tad positive in the rear which I like.

 

Nice work.
Could you provide more info re: chev spring set
And also I noticed you have changed you gear ratio?
Where shall I start with that process?
What is your deck plate mod?
Thanks for the reply!

 

What are you, a dry info sponge?

Just kiddin. You can search some of the threads on this stuff. Loads of info on all those.

It all really depends on your usage for your yota. PM me if you need more info on why I did what.

 

Here is my addition to the thread so I'll try to provide as much information so I'm not being annoying.

I have a 3" body lift and new Bilstein shocks and rear coils to get rid of sag. It raised the rear another 2 inches and the front about 1.5.

Right now I am on 33" Pro Comp mud tires on 16 rims. I do not know what the backspacing is though. I don't get any rub right now.

The tires and body lift came with the 4Runner but it's time for new tires to go with the 5.29 gears I'm ordering.

I plan on getting 35" Goodyear MT Kevlar tires as they had a good review in the recent tire issue of Peterson 4x4.

I measured clearance I have from the top of my 33"s to the fender and it's 10 inches front and rear. I also have 5 inches to the fender at the point where fender meets doors again front and rear.

I'm not too worried about rub but if anyone thinks it will please feel free to let me know. On the 33's I don't get anything but a metallic creaking at full lock every so often. Odd thing there is when I crawl under there I don't see any signs of damage so it will remain a mystery...

I'm not going to be doing anything too crazy yet so the 7.5 diff should hold up. It's mostly deep mud trails with some minor rock crawling in between the muskeet bogs. If I feel that I start to want to do more advanced stuff I will SAS and move away from Yellowknife back to BC.

Anyway my real question. Are there any steering components that I should think about making stronger to stand up to the extra weight etc, of having 35's?

Any objections to my tire choice will also be considered. I'm new to this so all your experience and opinions have really been helping in my selection process. You guys led me to East Coast Gear Supply and Nitro Gears for example.


Thanks!!!

 

Smoke jumper,
Get a heavy duty steering dampner.

 

Can you explain why so I can understand why I need it? It sounds like a shock absorber for steering? I'm just starting to learn how a vehicle works.

Any links to one you would recommend would also be handy. This is the first time I've heard about one you see.

 

A steering stabilizer cushions movement within the steering system (ie: you're driving along and hit a pothole) so that every little bump in the road doesn't jerk the wheel out of your hands. All it is is a small shock absorber-you can't see it because its underneath your front skid plate. When you get bigger tires the stock stabilizer doesn't do as good of a job at damping bumps in the road because of the increased mass of the tires. Pretty much every lift/off road shock company makes them (Skyjacker, Rancho, Rough Country, etc...)-they're relatively inexpensive.

The creaking at full lock is the steering stops, located underneath of the control arms on each side. They are steel but have plastic covers that wear away over time. If you search around you should be able to find the PN for them. That noise scared the crap out of me when I first got my truck-I thought it was a CV letting go or something! As for 35s with IFS there are more than a few here running them. Rattlewagon, RougeYota, and some others. I was hoping for 35s but really can't justify the cost right now. I'm going with a cheap set of 33s but putting enough lift on the truck so that when they wear out I can trade up, but who knows, I might decide I like the 33s and stick with them. The money I save is going into gears and a lunchbox for the rear.

 

You don't "need" it, but it is nice for on the road driving.