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#%^*! Nuts!!!

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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 05:11 PM
  #1  
Capt. Red Beard's Avatar
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#%^*! Nuts!!!

So... Spent the better part of 2hrs today trying to remove 1 nut/bolt where the tow package attaches to the frame of my 96 4Runner. Could use some help on ideas to get this thing off.

Here's what I've tried:
Soaking with Liquid Wrench
Using a longer 17mm wrench with a larger wrench as a pry bar (broke the 17mm wrench)
Bought a better wrench, same large wrench breaker bar
More liquid wrench
Then later put a propane torch to it, and still couldn't get it to budge.

If I had an angle grinder or a hack saw I woulda tried it.

Any ideas or thoughts I haven't tried yet?

Thanks,
-Cap.
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 05:15 PM
  #2  
gennro's Avatar
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From: Alamogordo, NM
Blow torch then impact gun.
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 06:27 PM
  #3  
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From: Victorville, CA
Breaker bar with tight fitting socket. Cycle the penetrant and heat a few times. If it dont go might be rust welded and gonna have to cut off. If you have a good fit on the socket you should be able to break the head off with enough leverage.
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 06:44 PM
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From: Earlysville, Va
I don't know how readily available it is, but this is an option too:

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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 07:42 PM
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Ok, I have a propane torch. You think that would work?

How hot should I get it? Should it glow?
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 07:47 PM
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If the heat and liquid wrench cycles don't work tomorrow I'll try the freeze stuff. I saw it at autozone today.

Thanks for the help everyone!
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 08:00 PM
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From: The Dirty South
I'm not really sure you can get it hot enough with a handheld propane torch.

From what I have seen and understand, then goal is to get the bolt very hot very fast and let it cool and contract, which generally breaks the seize between bolt and threads. I've also seen heating the area around it (thread area) to try and get that to expand while the bolt stays cooler (smaller), which can break the seize. Whenever you heat, you expand, cooling contracts. hence the freeze spray.

But also remember, if you're heating the bolt, the hotter it gets, the easier it is to twist off, and you have generally, also, de-tempered the hardware and if its any type of structural component especially, replace and anti-seize the threads.

I know there may be useless info for a lot of us, but newbs may not know everything....

Last edited by rokblok; Jul 6, 2013 at 08:04 PM.
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Old Jul 6, 2013 | 08:41 PM
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From: Dixon, Ca
Buy an angle grinder and a cut off wheel, come in handy.
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 01:51 AM
  #9  
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Don`t waste your time with just a propane torch never gonna get near hot enough you need a Oxy-fuel torch.

I would say it is time to get a 4.5" grinder with some Dog cutters( cut off wheels) It does not hurt to get a few grinding discs as well.

Is it possible to get to the bolt with a grinder and cut off wheel??

This would be the cheapest way to go.

A good breaker bar that won`t bend can get expensive speaking from experience I have bent them in the past
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 08:06 AM
  #10  
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From: Philomath, OR
can you get a sawzall on that bad boy? One of the greatest tools I've bought.
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 08:30 AM
  #11  
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Yeah, I think I could get a cutting tool to the bolt. I'd like to try other methods if I can, but I probably need to get an angle grinder anyhow.

Im giving it another go today. I'll post my results.
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 09:45 AM
  #12  
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From: Santa Cruz, CA
Clearly not using a big enough breaker bar, if its that seized than you should be able to just twist until it shears the bolt off with a proper sized breaker bar.
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 10:38 AM
  #13  
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From: baton rouge,louisiana
Hey man I saw a trick that works really well what you do is get it as hot as you can I mean hot and get some wax a plain candle or whatever is available and let the wax melt in the threads and right then.start working it out and you will have to repeat as necessary, u can look it up on u tube I think good luck
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 09:34 PM
  #14  
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Ok, so I went to a friends house to use his air gun.

Sheered off every bolt after about 30sec with the gun. So now I'm left with a new challenge.

The other half of the bolts are stuck in the rear frame of the 4Runner. Sheered off flat. At some point I'm going to need those threads for a new 4x4 bumper.

So what's the best way to remove the rust-welded bolts that are sheered off flat or recessed?

Thanks again,

-Cap.
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 11:16 PM
  #15  
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From: Forestville,CA
Map gas , a Long breaker bar and a cheater pipe. Simple. Or weld a nut on the bolt and slowly with it out. User plenty of pb blaster even when the bolt is hot.
P.I.T A. , But if nothing else works its WYeth a shot and will "eventually" work.
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 11:18 PM
  #16  
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From: Forestville,CA
*** work it out.

*** worth a try

Stupid auto correct
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 03:36 AM
  #17  
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From: The Dirty South
If they're in that rough of shape, prob best to grind them off. Just carefully use a cutoff wheel and cut the whole nut off the frame. Give yourself a clean slate.

Without seeing what you're working on exactly, I'm using general terms. But I hope you can get the idea.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 08:47 AM
  #18  
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From: florida
If there broke off flush drill them out and then weld a nut over the hole
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