#%^*! Nuts!!!
#1
#%^*! Nuts!!!
So... Spent the better part of 2hrs today trying to remove 1 nut/bolt where the tow package attaches to the frame of my 96 4Runner. Could use some help on ideas to get this thing off.
Here's what I've tried:
Soaking with Liquid Wrench
Using a longer 17mm wrench with a larger wrench as a pry bar (broke the 17mm wrench)
Bought a better wrench, same large wrench breaker bar
More liquid wrench
Then later put a propane torch to it, and still couldn't get it to budge.
If I had an angle grinder or a hack saw I woulda tried it.
Any ideas or thoughts I haven't tried yet?
Thanks,
-Cap.
Here's what I've tried:
Soaking with Liquid Wrench
Using a longer 17mm wrench with a larger wrench as a pry bar (broke the 17mm wrench)
Bought a better wrench, same large wrench breaker bar
More liquid wrench
Then later put a propane torch to it, and still couldn't get it to budge.
If I had an angle grinder or a hack saw I woulda tried it.
Any ideas or thoughts I haven't tried yet?
Thanks,
-Cap.
#3
Breaker bar with tight fitting socket. Cycle the penetrant and heat a few times. If it dont go might be rust welded and gonna have to cut off. If you have a good fit on the socket you should be able to break the head off with enough leverage.
#7
I'm not really sure you can get it hot enough with a handheld propane torch.
From what I have seen and understand, then goal is to get the bolt very hot very fast and let it cool and contract, which generally breaks the seize between bolt and threads. I've also seen heating the area around it (thread area) to try and get that to expand while the bolt stays cooler (smaller), which can break the seize. Whenever you heat, you expand, cooling contracts. hence the freeze spray.
But also remember, if you're heating the bolt, the hotter it gets, the easier it is to twist off, and you have generally, also, de-tempered the hardware and if its any type of structural component especially, replace and anti-seize the threads.
I know there may be useless info for a lot of us, but newbs may not know everything....
From what I have seen and understand, then goal is to get the bolt very hot very fast and let it cool and contract, which generally breaks the seize between bolt and threads. I've also seen heating the area around it (thread area) to try and get that to expand while the bolt stays cooler (smaller), which can break the seize. Whenever you heat, you expand, cooling contracts. hence the freeze spray.
But also remember, if you're heating the bolt, the hotter it gets, the easier it is to twist off, and you have generally, also, de-tempered the hardware and if its any type of structural component especially, replace and anti-seize the threads.
I know there may be useless info for a lot of us, but newbs may not know everything....
Last edited by rokblok; Jul 6, 2013 at 08:04 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 100
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Don`t waste your time with just a propane torch never gonna get near hot enough you need a Oxy-fuel torch.I would say it is time to get a 4.5" grinder with some Dog cutters( cut off wheels) It does not hurt to get a few grinding discs as well.
Is it possible to get to the bolt with a grinder and cut off wheel??
This would be the cheapest way to go.
A good breaker bar that won`t bend can get expensive speaking from experience I have bent them in the past
#13
Hey man I saw a trick that works really well what you do is get it as hot as you can I mean hot and get some wax a plain candle or whatever is available and let the wax melt in the threads and right then.start working it out and you will have to repeat as necessary, u can look it up on u tube I think good luck
#14
Ok, so I went to a friends house to use his air gun.
Sheered off every bolt after about 30sec with the gun. So now I'm left with a new challenge.
The other half of the bolts are stuck in the rear frame of the 4Runner. Sheered off flat. At some point I'm going to need those threads for a new 4x4 bumper.
So what's the best way to remove the rust-welded bolts that are sheered off flat or recessed?
Thanks again,
-Cap.
Sheered off every bolt after about 30sec with the gun. So now I'm left with a new challenge.
The other half of the bolts are stuck in the rear frame of the 4Runner. Sheered off flat. At some point I'm going to need those threads for a new 4x4 bumper.
So what's the best way to remove the rust-welded bolts that are sheered off flat or recessed?
Thanks again,
-Cap.
#15
Map gas , a Long breaker bar and a cheater pipe. Simple. Or weld a nut on the bolt and slowly with it out. User plenty of pb blaster even when the bolt is hot.
P.I.T A. , But if nothing else works its WYeth a shot and will "eventually" work.
P.I.T A. , But if nothing else works its WYeth a shot and will "eventually" work.
#17
If they're in that rough of shape, prob best to grind them off. Just carefully use a cutoff wheel and cut the whole nut off the frame. Give yourself a clean slate.
Without seeing what you're working on exactly, I'm using general terms. But I hope you can get the idea.
Without seeing what you're working on exactly, I'm using general terms. But I hope you can get the idea.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hiluxinargentina
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
0
Sep 30, 2015 11:12 PM
hiluxinargentina
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
Sep 30, 2015 05:51 PM



