AxleIke

This post was made for a set of guidelines to make people think before blowing money on their rigs, so that they can blow money in an effective manner

Some recommendations I'd have are:

Get a set of stock sized tires, but in a more aggressive tread. I wouldn't jump up in tire size until you've gotten out on the trail for a while

Get armor as you can afford it. Wheel it.

Then regear with a locker for the rear.

Keep in mind the following:

Internet boards like this one can be a great resource for finding information, and tips/tricks. Unfortunately, they also lead people to believe that a truck needs to be made "trail worthy". This is not the case.

Your truck, with a decent set of tires, is already quite trail worthy. Some recovery/safety gear IS necessary, as it could save your life if you get stuck. Other than that, wheel your truck. Nothing more than that.

If you do it that way, your own experiences will teach you two things: 1. How to drive offroad. Probably the most valuable thing you can put in your truck for offroading is a good driver. You don't get good without practice. 2. How to mod your truck for the wheeling that YOU enjoy. Everyone will tell you how THEY think you should build the rig. After you've been out on a few roads/trails, you'll start to see areas where your truck can improve. Those are the areas you should hit first.

Generally, people find that open diffs are a drag. Lockers fix that. Tons of info available at this site to help you out when you feel ready to make some purchases.

PaulCA

Thanks for this informative, great thread. New T4R owner as of last week - got a 2006 V8 Ltd. with automatic transmission. I've searched the forums and internet and can't seem to answer what I'm sure is an inept question - if my truck has an electronic locking differential switch, wouldn't lockers be redundant? I'm not sure I understand the difference between the manufacturer's "differential lock" function and "lockers" people talk about in these forums.
Here's my rough plans for mods to my T4R - appreciate any comments:
1) New tires/wheels - downsizing to 17" rims from 18" and getting the BF Goodrich 265/70/17 AT KO's. I understand these are about as big as I can go w/o trimming and/or lifting.
2) Replace running boards with sliders
3) Shockworks front bumper
4) Undercarriage skid plates/armor
5) Add a rear bumper replacement
6) If I get to six anytime soon I'll be surprised! At that point its a wish list of driving lights, safari carrier, winch, and as I learn more I'd imagine drivetrain+gearing.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Hold on there. I don't think that is right. First let me say that this generation of 4Runner is not my strong point so lets get a definitive answer from someone with more expertise, but I believe there are no true rear diff lockers after the 2000 model, although the 2009 "Trail Edition" now offers one again. I think what Toyota called a "center diff lock" is in actuality more of a t case device that transfers power front to rear or some such. Somebody can straighten me out on the details , but that is my understanding of it. To PaulCA, I don't think you have a locking rear diff. I believe your center diff lock is generally helpful for bad road conditions but of minimal or marginal help off road.

tc

On a 2006 V8, the locking is for the center differential - essentially making it a "normal" 4WD vehicle with the tcase "locked" - otherwise there's a limited slip action in the center diff, meaning it's really only one wheel drive - although that wheel could be on the front or rear axle. Locking the center diff ensures that you have at least one wheel on each axle spinning.

AxleIke

Yeah, this sounds like a locking center diff. I'm betting this truck has full time 4wd. If so, when you push the diff lock button, you get a normal transfer case. Essentially, you get what a part time 4wd has. You still have open diffs.

So no, a locker in either diff would not be redundant. You have to lock the center to get what the rest of us have stock. You would add lockers from there.

PaulCA

Correct - it is full time 4WD. Thanks for all the help, seems like I've got some homework to do.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Also this forum

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/index.php

may be helpful to you. It is specifically for your generation rig. I haven't noodled around there much yet, so I don't know what the general character of the board is like. I found it while looking into the 2009 4Runner as I'm intrigued by the locking diff. It looks however, like that is more of a pipedream for me right now though.

skibum707

So ya im completely new at this whole thing and this looked like a good place to start with my potentially dumb questions so im just gonna lay um out and see if anyone can help me.

I just inherited my 98 4runner and ive been takin it wheelin around my town of santa rosa and im looking to fix it up for some real trails.

First dumb question is does the RR diferential lock have anything to do w/ lockers?

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Yes! This should mean you have a Toyota factory electronic locking differential in the rear. (you lucky devil) You can read up more about your rig here on YT in the "knowledgebase section" here:

https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/4runner_faq.htm
especially scroll down to #9 on this one to learn about lockers

http://www.top4runners.com/ja/runhist.html
click on 3rd generation then 1998 to learn about your truck on this one

If you're still unsure look at your rear diff to see if it has an extra gizmo on it like this axle. I stole this pic off craigslist so it may not last forever.

AxleIke

x2 on BLKNBLU's post.

In short, yes, it does, as a RR differential lock IS a locker. One of the better ones out there. Yours came factory, which is awesome for you.

skibum707

sweet news ill be more greatful of that from now on. However i have another question.. Ive been looking at some armor stuff and skidplates look like a good idea and ive notice some of the hardcore rigs have like arb or tjm bumpers on them but i cant afford one and im not sure that id really need it so a good grille guard looked like a better option any comments on that? or suggestions of brands?

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Your thinking is right on target. You have the drivetrain in good shape so it's time to move on to armor. Generally grill guards are flimsy and not particularly helpful IMO and might even cause damage that you might otherwise not have gotten. However I could see if you mostly traveled in brushy conditions there might be some use to one. But I'm biased against them so let me leave it at that and let others argue the pros of them. (if there are any)

I'd be more inclined to steer you to sliders and skid plates. For skid plates get Budbuilt. Period. End of discussion.
http://www.budbuilt.com/new/96-02%204Runner.html

For sliders, there are many good ones out there and you are lucky to have many of the manufacturers near you in Cali.

Marlin in Fresno
Trail Gear in Fresno
Richard Stubbs in Susanville (what I've got)
All Pro in Hemet
Demello in Corona

With any of those you could drive to them and save shipping and have them installed right there at the vendor.

And before I forget, I want to remind anyone reading the thread that TJM has gotten out of the North American market altogether so the only way to get their stuff now is used or maybe some old stock lying around a shop somewhere. (unlikely)

hoytyota84

ok, im convinced, no lift. but is one set of lockers better than others. i called 4wheel parts and asked prices without installation, limited slip in front and i dont know what in back, $837. kinda expected them to cost more. did i get the price on a cheap set up. is the tru trac worth it? i have a '90 pick up ext cab. not sure if that helps or not. i also need some info on replacing my engine, have 4cyl, want V6 but i dont know if i can in Ca. with all the stupid smog laws?

face

hey tc you say that you are running 33's on your 4runner correct? i have a 94 pickup runnung 31's and am on the verge of experiencing tire rub. what are the necessary modifications to run the 33's? im not interested in lifts or fiberglass. iwhat is the way?

tc

The "secret" is to use the stock rims (or stock backspacing anyways).

face

so instead of starting new threads to get answers to my questions ill just ask them here. i am considering putting low profile bump-stops up front on my ifs 94 pickup and disconnecting the sway bars. i read the write up here on yotatech but couldnt find much info teh performance afterwards. how much more articulation will this give to me up front? are there any other modifications that can be done to increase the articulation of the stock suspension?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yes, you'll get a little more travel, assuming the torsion bars and shocks allow for the extra travel. You could just try it and see for yourself. You can also just cut down the stock bump stops a little at a time.

Adding ball joint spacers and backing off the torsion bars all the way is a good way to add more travel:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ml#Description

Still keeps the suspension close to stock.

toyelk

Enjoyed your video!!! I am interested in modifying a stock 2001 4-runner sr5 4x4 for elk hunting the Colorado Mountains in the Sept. Oct. time frame. I frequently need chains on my chevy truck due to snow/mud. It doesn't look as if chains will clear the space between the tire and the suspension parts on the 4 runner. Any Ideas or experience in this department. I have also considered a front bumper mounted winch that could be switched in the field to the rear receiver. Most of the driving is performed on washed out logging roads with the occasional tree or boulder to navigate around. Any information on modification for these conditions would be appreciated. Thanks RD

face

so ive got this 94 toyota pickup right... and i was thinking i would very much like to have a sfa. naturally i would like to put in a toyota axle, but what if i cant? what axle will fit under my 94 ifs pickup? or could i make just about anything fit under there? what should i look for when buying a front axle? help me out thanks

AxleIke

I'm not sure about 3rd gen 4runners. Sorry. I fit chains on my 33's just fine, but thats on a first gen.

The toyota axle is the easiest. You can put whatever you want under there. You are going to cut everything off and start with a clean frame, so let your imagination work. Guys run Toy axles, Diamond axles, unimog axles, rockwells, dana axles, all under toyotas.

Leaf springs are easy, links with coils/coilovers are more adjustable, but harder to get correct. If you are serious about this, you need to go to Pirate4x4.com. You will be able to find all the answers you need and then some over there in the Toyota section.