Hey guys, new to the forums. Picking up a '94 T4R tomorrow. Most of the cars I've had before I've only really worked on because they needed repairs. Since this 4Runner was owned by a mechanic I'm probably not going to be doing much of that anymore. Also, job promotion has definitely landed more cash in my hands .

I've been looking at a couple quick easy things I want to do to start off. Mostly because they're a bit cheaper than a lift and new tires at the moment, but that will come.

Exhaust: It's starting to look like I'm not going to find anyone who does a full system unless I want it custom built. I'm not sure about mixing companys & sound relation though, though it's a 6 cyl. I want it to sound a little more deep and throaty.

Cold air induction: So far I'm getting K&N isn't as good as AMSOIL, having trouble finding which will fit from them though.

Brush/Grille Guard: I like this one, http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attach...&postid=375596. Wondering where to find it, and maybe similar tail light guards...

Can someone tell me anything about these tires? http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/IMG_0007.jpg (3-4" lift?)

Any other suggestions will gladly be looked into.

 

Not sure about those tires but the brush guard looks like a Westin. westinautomotive.com If you're going to be doing any serious off-roading then a brush guard that mounts to your frame, like ARB, is a much wiser investment. More expensive, but wiser.

 

First, engine mods are wasted money on a 3.0. It it what it is, just leave it alone or swap it. You will also find there is almost NO aftermarket for the 3.0.

x2 for the brush guard comments. If you just want for looks, OK, but if you want protection, there are better options.

Tires look to be Goodyear MTR's, probably 32x11.50 or 33x12.50 - either of which will likely need 4" or so of lift to really clear.

 

Go before show, almost always. If that brush guard is a little shoddy, I'll keep looking around.

Picked up the rig yesterday ran great all day, I'll post pics up soonish.

2 Things we found after a more thorough investigating. Looks like the boots at the CV joints are shot, at this point with 182k on the body I'm figuring just replacing the axles would be the best bet. Found a good price here: http://www.autoanything.com/Parts/Pa...ame=drivetrain

2nd: The transfer case is spewing fluids up into the under carriage. Having trouble finding the location it's coming from at the moment, but just curious where the fill plug is so I can check the level.

 

those tires look like toyo open country m/t's there are probably the most expensive mud terrain around, but they look real cool, i have never seen anybody wheel with them i have only seen them on street trucks where looks are more important.

 

Transfer case was missing a bolt near the top, got a temp replacement bolt from my local McClendon's hardware store until I get the exact bolt needed. Odd thing is, I started pulling the filler plug to check the level and fluid started gushing out quite a bit.... Could've been that the transfer case was too full?

 

You're going to have fun replacing those! I'm doing the ds one on my '89. It's a royal PAIN!!!! Hopefully yours go better than mine have.

 

First, your local autoparts store will have them at that price or cheaper, and with a lifetime warranty.

Changing a CV is not that hard I don't know what problems you're having Zelephant:

- jack up truck under the little arm at the lower balljoint
- place another jackstand under the opposite rear corner of the frame
- remove the wheel and the manual hub/ADD plate
- remove the 12mm bolt in the end of the CV and the circlip
- remove the 6 studs that bolt the CV to the stub flange
- jack up the control arm as high as you can compress it - the other jackstand helps give you leverage
- wrestle the CV out
- installation is the reverse of removal

This may help too
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

 

Please don't call it a T4R.

 

Haha my bad, guess it's a naughty word I picked up from another forum.

 

Putting on new axles right now. Probably a stupid question but, are the joints already filled with the CV joint grease?

 

the brushguard you can probabally pick up one from westin

 

Yep, they're all greased and ready to go.

 

Anyone have a good link to the quick CV change mod? The one I had from off road dot com doesn't work anymore. I'm not in the CV game any more but it would sure be nice to be able to point new folks to it.

 

I don't know that you need a writeup ... beat or press the studs out and replace with bolts.

 

It's just sometimes when I'm trying to explain it to someone, you get that "what the..." response, and it's just easier to say "here, look at this."

 

Alright, we hit our wits end & a dead end last night with the driver side axle. The passenger caused enough frustration with the diff crowding us trying to maneuver the axles around & we figured the driverside would be easier without that in the way. But, we cannot get the diff side of the axle to fit past the flange. We already discovered that lifting the A shaped arm sometimes gave us a little breathing room but it's just not enough.

Anyone else ever run into this & find a solution?