4ever4running

iTrader: (1)

I know that there are other threads on here about regearing but after searching for a while I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for...

So I have been wanting to regear for a while, but now I
finally have a good excuse to go through with it. In about 4 months my fiance and I will be moving from Austin to Washington DC and I will be using my truck to pull a Uhaul trailer. So, I want to regear before I make the trip to try to save some gas $$ and actually be able to make it up a small hill without downshifting.

I am planning on getting the gear professionally installed because I don't have the experience to do it myself. So I have some questions:

1) What gears should I go with? I am pretty sure that I have stock 4.10's and I am thinking about either 4.56's or 4.88's. I use my truck mostly for daily driving and I am lucky if I can wheel it once a month. See my sig for my setup.

2) Do I need just the ring and pinion or do I need other parts/kits too?

3) Where should I buy the gears from? Any links would be appreciated!

4) I am considering getting some lockers while I am at it, but I can't afford ARB air lockers, what are some cheaper alternatives?

5) How much should I expect to pay for professional installation?

Thanks in advance!

scuba

4.88's for the v6 auto.
You'll need master install kits which include new bearings and such.
Ecgs (eastcoastgearsupply.com) has everything you need. They even sell fully built diffs which they ship you and the new ones just drop right in. Minimizes down time.
Lockrights are my choice for a cheap locker. I'd spring for a full carrier Detroit in the rear if you've got the cash.
A good price for setup (if you drop off the diffs already out of the truck) is around 150-250 per diff. It's labor intensive.

4ever4running

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Scuba! I just gave eastcoastsupply a call and they were really helpful! They are going to put together an email with some different options and send it to me. I will let you know what I end up going with.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Be kind to your auto tranny and add this?
http://www.autopartsdealer.com/hayde...m_content=rank

scuba

Agreed.

rattlewagon

I would check what your stock gears are rather than being just "pretty sure"

I would hate to get new gears just to find out its what I already had.

4ever4running

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice ZUK, the transmission cooler was actually going to be my next mod after I regear. I don't do a whole lot of towing but towing a trailer 1,500 miles across the country is a good enough reason to spend $70. Does anybody have any links to threads on how/where to install the tranny cooler?

I have decided to go with 4.88's and I am pretty don't think Toyota ever put gears that low in the 3rd generation 4Runners, right? Just to be sure, how can I check to see what gears I have?

S.Skinner

iTrader: (1)

You can check what gears you have by looking at the info plate on your door jam. The only one i know for sure is G144 and that = 4.88 pretty sure there is a chart on here somewhere that says what code = what gearing. Give a shout out when you get to DC. There are a couple of us that live quite close

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

It took me 2 tries to get it right but I found out that the best cooling efficiency is with when the cooler is physically up against the radiator. Here's everything you ever wanted to know....and some things you didn't....

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-211136/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/m...l-pics-211198/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...nstall-213005/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/m...-small-211938/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/s...cooler-215650/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...cooler-216943/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...inions-217133/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...runner-217728/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/1...diator-221422/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...xed-up-232862/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/b...cooler-126953/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/a...nstall-234852/

https://www.yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=8611788


ZUK

pssss-----I just eyeballed my cooler....I got the Hayden #678 which is the next model down...slightly smaller 11" x 8.5" and it fits better up against my radiator. Wish I could have fit the 11x11 bigger brother one but the lower body brace got in the way. I'm not sure about yours so you will have to remove the plastic grill and eyeball it. Try for the 11x11 model. Best to do the cooler IN SERIES with the radiator and AFTER the radiator.
The radiator has its own built in cooler for the autos....after about an hour of drive time, the radiator water temp has stabilized throughout at about 180 degrees....this means the cooler is "pre-heated" to 180. It still cools because the tranny output line can have temps of about 250 degrees during moderate work-outs.....so the coolest the oil can ever get is about 180 after it passes thru the radiator.
By placing the aftermarket cooler AFTER the radiator now the 180 degree tranny fluid gets cooled extra nice....losing another 30~50 degrees of heat. All bets are off if the secondary cooler is not up against the radiator for maximum pull effect of the clutchfan.

My old 99TJ Jeep had TWO aftermarket coolers on it....the first was about 5 inches in front of the radiator....the second was mounted under the drivers seat area near the frame out in the open WITH a big 12" electric fan up against it. You would think that would be plenty of cooling but the temp gauge I had that monitored the tranny pan temps said otherwise when going up the famous SledgeHammer trail on a 100 degree summer day...temps were touching about 230 degrees on the slow constant rockcrawl up the mountain crevice. I am convinced if I had just 1 Hayden #679 up against the radiator with the 4 zip ties to physically pull it tight against it then I would never have seen over about 180 degrees I think.
My present Tacoma has the model 678 zip-tied up to the top center of the radiator. Excellent cooling according to my precision temp gauge. Never has gotten over 168 on a slow trail in the middle of an Arizona summer ( over 100 degree air temp). On the way to work it stays under 120.....on the highway about 140. On a Utah highway at 55mph with winter temps at +5 degrees above 0, I was seeing 105 degrees on my gauge

4ever4running

iTrader: (1)

Okay cool, I will start searching for the chart. Does anybody have a link by any chance?

Definitely! We will be living somewhere in the Falls Church, McLean, Arlington area and I will be looking for guys to go wheeling with because we won't know many people when we move.

4ever4running

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info but the link isn't working...

rattlewagon

http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

4ever4running

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!

My code number is: A02A so according to the table in the link you posted I have 3.58's! No wonder I am getting such crappy MPG!

scuba

I highly doubt that. Those charts are notoriously wrong for third gens.
Do the spin test to be sure.

4ever4running

iTrader: (1)

Yeah 3.58's doesn't sound right at all...Do you have a link to do the spin test?

Also, I just received the quote from East Coast Gear Supply and it is a little confusing. Can you guys check over this parts list and let me know if it is correct and/or if I need to add anything else?

1) Item Number: T7.5-488R-NG Description: T7.5R-488R-PG Nitro Toyota 7.5 Reverse 4.88 Ring and Pinion ($195)
2) Item Number: T7.5-MIK-R-YG Description: T7.5R Yukon Master Install Kit Toyota 7.5 Reverse ($180)

3) Item Number: TV6-488-NG Description: TV6-488-NG Toyota V6/Elocker 4.88 Ring and Pinion ($185)
4) Item Number: TV6-MIK-ZK Description: TV6 Toyota V6 Mater Install Kit ($165)

5) Item Number: SS-TV6 Description: Toyota V6 Solid Spacer with Shims ($25)
6) Item Number: Yoke-Toy-60/6 Description: YY T35040 Toyota Yoke 27 Spline 60X60 and 60X66 Pattern ($35)
7) Item Number: TV6-PT-1620 Description: PT1620 Toyota V6 Lockright - Retains Side Gears ($270)

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechI...oDetermination

4ever4running

iTrader: (1)

As always, thank you 4Crawler!

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

oops....wonder what happened there. I just updated the link. works now


https://www.yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=8611319

ok....it was working ...now it's not again. So I guess the search results don't store well. Anyways, what I did was search for TRANNY COOLER and look in the titles only. It came up with very useful links. here's the actual threads......

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-211136/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/m...l-pics-211198/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...nstall-213005/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/m...-small-211938/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/s...cooler-215650/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...cooler-216943/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...inions-217133/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...runner-217728/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/1...diator-221422/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...xed-up-232862/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/b...cooler-126953/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/a...nstall-234852/

https://www.yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=8611788

4ever4running

iTrader: (1)

Wow Zuk, thanks for all the helpful links! I just read through some of the threads and I am thinking that I might actually completely bypass the stock transmission cooler all together and just cool the transmission using the aftermarket transmission cooler. I have read a couple of threads where guys have done this without any issues. Here is the thread that I got this idea/information from: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...l-3rd-gen.html

I also just ordered this transmission cooler: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70268/

I have read that bypassing the stock cooler will completely eliminate the possibility of the dreaded pink milkshake, but I am not sure if it will provide enough cooling power to cool the transmission by itself. What do you guys think? Should I bypass the stock cooler all together or should I just add the aftermarket transmission cooler as another "layer" of cooling power?

4ever4running

iTrader: (1)

So in addition to getting the estimate from ECGS, I have been calling around trying to get some estimates for parts and labor. For the most part the estimates are coming in right around the $2,000 for everything installed out the door (includes front and rear gears, master install kits, a Lock Right rear locker, and labor). Does that sound about right or should I keep calling around? Does anyone know of any places I could call in the Austin area?

Also, a little off topic but any thoughts about the external transmission cooler?