Looks like Molly may have blown her head gasket on the way home from work last night.

What is the definitive test? Compression test on the cylinders?

I remember something about some analysis to check for combustion byproducts in the coolant - how/where do you have that done?

 

First check is open the radiator. Check to see if you have "chocolate milk", which is a sure sign that you have oil in the coolant.

I'm not sure on the compression test. Have to search around for that.

 

that sucks if i remember right molly has a 3.0 in her runner right???

well if you have a 5 gas machine you can check for nox in the coolant bottle or just pop the radiator cap and use the sniffer right above the filler, the other way to check is put a coolant press guage on the radiator and start the truck if it builds press crazy quick then that would be a way, another is to pull the plugs and look into the cylinders and see if any of the plugs are really really clean, same with the piston tops, and yet still another way is to pull the dipstick and check for choco milk, and yet another is to just drive the piss out of it till it blows up and swap in a 5vz 3.4

 

Check coolant, check oil, do compression test.

 

if it is a bad head gasket, do yourself a favor and change the knock sensor wire when you are in there

 

Well this morning I checked oil. Looked like synthetic oil that needs a change in about another 1000 miles. No choco milk oil. The coolant in the overflow tank looked fine (from what I could see - I was in the dark garage). But when I started to drive her out of the neighborhood she was smoking like a pine needle fire. Like tons of billowing white sweet smelling (read coolant enhanced) smoke.

I talked to Jacob the tech who rebuilt tippy. The head gasket had already been done on that engine. He can rebuild it for me for ~$900 in labor and $400 in parts. But it would take some time as he would be doing it in his garage on the weekend.

To do the 3.4 swap I not only need the 3.4 engine but the top, the harness and the computer, not to mention power steering, and alternator, if my current ones are not compatible. That could make the swap $4K or more...

*sigh* what to do.

Time to call the folks who are in new zealand and see if I can use their car for a few months while they are gone...

 

ask the folks to pick you up a diesel engine/ and goodies from a wrecker while they are down there...

 

Har Har.... If only that would fit in their suit case.

 

I have a honkin' huge duffel bag you can send 'em!

 

Hey molly, just bite the bullet....
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buy mine

 

Then what would *I* do with all my extra crumpled fendors and stuff?

 

Did you chop Tippy yet and now the front end is jealous?

 

LOL, after crushing the sides of these fenders, you could modify them to fit this 3rd gen.....

 

If we had enough $ to buy your truck Steve, this wouldn't be a predicament! LOL

 

let me know if i can help i did sams heads for him, even though he still has a wickedd rod knock

 

Swap it. It won't be near $4000 if you can do the wiring yourself. More like $2500 or less. That's with a 3.4 in the $1000 range and headers to boot.

You'll dig that 3.4. It's like driving an entirely new vehicle. Imagine going down the hwy and seeing a hill coming... but just smile instead of try your best to build momentum. It's a feeling that has to be experienced.

You probably saw my thread already, but I managed to do the wiring and cut some other corners which gave me a 3.4 for a minimal investment.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...4-swap-128285/

I'd at least search a bit in your area for the price and availability on a 3.4 before you make your final choice on what to do.

 

i would be willing to help with the swap as well!!! i live fairly close!!!!

 

I laughed out loud when I read that

I remember those days well.

Molly, that would be cool if you could piece the stuff together for a swap.

 

1uzfe can be had for $500 easily, it bolts right up to the auto

 

Say:

Why don't you plug in the $244 dollar option. Log on to engnbldr.com for the 3.0 slow top end gasket set and pull Tippy's Top End yourself.

Use a razer blade and brake cleaner to clean the cylinder block; chase the bolt holes in the block and follow the FSM link at the top or buy your own hard copy off ebay motors.

Learn something in the process and pocket $1000 to yourself.
Go all out and grind the valves for an additional $125.

The job [is only a PITA if you choose to look at it that way.
Personally the more you do it the better you get.

Oh yeah, figure in a little cold beer, but you'll spend that regardless if you do it yourself or bend over and pay someone else to get the grease out from undr their fingernails.

Just then usual 2cents. No charge.