Lysmachia - Blown head gasket?
#42
I'd have to say about $2K (or thereabouts) for the engine, but I bought an entire donor truck for my project, so it's tough to make that call.
I'll keep an eye out, but keep checking the regular sources. Good deals can be had on eBay and Craigslist, as long as you know what you're dealing with. You might check into what Irbis Off Road has available - they usually have Tacos and Runners listed for engine conversions. I've not dealt with them, myself, but they seem to have a pretty good rep from what I've read.
I'll keep an eye out, but keep checking the regular sources. Good deals can be had on eBay and Craigslist, as long as you know what you're dealing with. You might check into what Irbis Off Road has available - they usually have Tacos and Runners listed for engine conversions. I've not dealt with them, myself, but they seem to have a pretty good rep from what I've read.
#43
I've been chasing this wabbit the past month deciding to do the 3.4 swap for my Ftoy and realistically a $4K budget seems realistic from my research.
My personal time runs into business time, which means money, so I won't try and reinvent the wheel and will use as much of the "kit" stuff as there is out there. I also plan to not skimp on anything while the engine is out to hopefully prevent that which might come back to bite me in the hiney later.
My personal time runs into business time, which means money, so I won't try and reinvent the wheel and will use as much of the "kit" stuff as there is out there. I also plan to not skimp on anything while the engine is out to hopefully prevent that which might come back to bite me in the hiney later.
Last edited by waskillywabbit; Jan 17, 2008 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Sorry, wrong $$$
#45
I really think the swap can be done fairly reasonably. I kept pretty good records just to see what I could do it for. This is a quick list, but fairly complete.
Motor: $1350 (included ECM, intake, all accessories, EVAP box)
Headers: $400
New clutch: $250
Turn flywheel: $35
Belts/ Hoses: $65
Wiring: $30 in parts
Total: $2130
Following items you may or may not need (I had to get them though)
Motor mounts: $90
Amsoil air filter: $50
Timing belt: $90 (Included idler bearings)
Power steering line: $60
O2 sensor and sparkplugs/ wires: $160
Engine stand: $35
Total: $485
I spent $2615 (give or take) and was able to sell my 3.0 for $650 which brought me in around $2000.
With a bad 3.0 the sale after the swap most likely won't be an option. But that $485 amount could be shaved as well.
It's the ORS harness and related parts that really raises the price. However, the ORS harness sure makes things easier and faster. Probably depends what your time is worth.
Mine is worth very little... so I saved some coin.
Motor: $1350 (included ECM, intake, all accessories, EVAP box)
Headers: $400
New clutch: $250
Turn flywheel: $35
Belts/ Hoses: $65
Wiring: $30 in parts
Total: $2130
Following items you may or may not need (I had to get them though)
Motor mounts: $90
Amsoil air filter: $50
Timing belt: $90 (Included idler bearings)
Power steering line: $60
O2 sensor and sparkplugs/ wires: $160
Engine stand: $35
Total: $485
I spent $2615 (give or take) and was able to sell my 3.0 for $650 which brought me in around $2000.
With a bad 3.0 the sale after the swap most likely won't be an option. But that $485 amount could be shaved as well.
It's the ORS harness and related parts that really raises the price. However, the ORS harness sure makes things easier and faster. Probably depends what your time is worth.
Mine is worth very little... so I saved some coin.
#46
I'm on it tomorrow....
Is it reasonable to ask that the seller do a compression test and give me the readings before I buy? I mean I want to know the engine is good....
#48
Molly, I would certainly ask all the pertinant questions about the purchase that I could think of. It's still a pretty large chunk of change for most of us.
If you can find one that still in the vehicle, then check all the fluids, and run it, if you can. If it's not, then give it as much of a look over as you can, and get every bit of info that you can about the milage, VIN number, what type of accident it was in (if known), ect.
Personally, I would try to avoid anything over 100K miles. I know that these engines can go a long way, with proper care, but I can't see doing this much work with an engine with more milage than that on it. Try to get all the major part that you will need from the same truck, if at all possible.
If you can find one that still in the vehicle, then check all the fluids, and run it, if you can. If it's not, then give it as much of a look over as you can, and get every bit of info that you can about the milage, VIN number, what type of accident it was in (if known), ect.
Personally, I would try to avoid anything over 100K miles. I know that these engines can go a long way, with proper care, but I can't see doing this much work with an engine with more milage than that on it. Try to get all the major part that you will need from the same truck, if at all possible.
#50
#51
im still in the process of finishing my heads on the 3.0, an let me tell ya, when i get the money, ill go to 3.4 (ill BLoW this 3.0 first though) The extra money is definetly worth it, more aftermarket parts, better power gains from those parts. Im sure you could find a donor 3.4 truk/runner cheap an take everything you need for way under. Dont waste your money fixin the 3.slow- jus my 2cents.
#52
You'll find Mike at ORS very easy to deal with, and both knowledgable and helpful where the 3.4 conversion is concerned. While you can transfer most of the parts that you need from the old 3.0, the ORS harness makes the electrical end of things very close to plug and play.
Even if you are comfortable with electrical work, the harness is a big time saver for the project
Even if you are comfortable with electrical work, the harness is a big time saver for the project
#55
#57
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