LIft Kit help/advice.
#1
LIft Kit help/advice.
I have a 5spd extra cab 94 3.0 v6 4x4. I want to find a lift kit between 2'' and 4'' that come with all 4 shocks. The objective of my truck is to keep it clean and run maybe 32''-33'' tires. It is currently stock with 31x10.5x15s. I just want to the truck to be clean and have a small amount of lift. I want to try to avoid body lifts. Any advice or pics would be great! Thanks.
#5
I used this kit on my 93: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-IFS-Pickup-4Runner-2-5-Front-Lift-Kit-4WD-/270441652053?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1993%7CMake%3AToyota&hash=item3ef7941f55&vxp=mtr
Couldn't be happier.
I've said this before in other threads and I'll say it again. The kit is only $80 and it comes with the diff drop (which I strongly recommend using), the sway bar drop (if you still want to use the sway bar), and high grade hardware (metric grade 12.9). Other places sell just the ball joint spacers for $120 +/-.
Couldn't be happier.
I've said this before in other threads and I'll say it again. The kit is only $80 and it comes with the diff drop (which I strongly recommend using), the sway bar drop (if you still want to use the sway bar), and high grade hardware (metric grade 12.9). Other places sell just the ball joint spacers for $120 +/-.
#6
I used this kit on my 93: Toyota IFS Pickup 4Runner 2 5" Front Lift Kit 4WD | eBay
Couldn't be happier.
I've said this before in other threads and I'll say it again. The kit is only $80 and it comes with the diff drop (which I strongly recommend using), the sway bar drop (if you still want to use the sway bar), and high grade hardware (metric grade 12.9). Other places sell just the ball joint spacers for $120 +/-.
Couldn't be happier.
I've said this before in other threads and I'll say it again. The kit is only $80 and it comes with the diff drop (which I strongly recommend using), the sway bar drop (if you still want to use the sway bar), and high grade hardware (metric grade 12.9). Other places sell just the ball joint spacers for $120 +/-.
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#9

Jack
Jackstands
Wheel chocks (safety first)
Ratchet handle, 3/8" drive
Ratchet handle, 1/2" drive
3/8" drive 12mm socket for upper ball joint studs (I think) and definitely used to install sway bar drop brackets
3/8" drive 14mm socket to loosen and tighten top shock mount
1/2" drive 17mm (I think) socket and wrench for differential drop. Definitely used for bottom shock mount.
3/8" drive 10mm socket. I don't think I've ever worked on my truck without having to use a 10mm wrench or socket. So it had to be used somewhere in the lift installation process
3/8" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive torque wrench to torque bottom shock mounts and differential drop brackets.
3/8" drive torque wrench to torque upper ball joint studs
Pickle fork to separate ball joints from spindle (if you're installing new ball joints)
Needle nose pliers to remove cotter pin from ball joint stud (again, only if installing new ball joints)
Crowbar
Penetrating oil (PB Blaster is the best I've used so far)
Mountain Dew Voltage (Not absolutely necessary. It's just a tasty beverage to enjoy while wrenching
)The only real specialty tool is the pickle fork, but it's not needed if you're not installing new ball joints.
Hopefully someone else chimes in to confirm the sizes. Again, it's been a while.
Last edited by 93Xtra-Cab; Mar 27, 2014 at 09:10 AM.
#10
Let's see if I can remember what I tools used. It's been almost two years 
Jack
Jackstands
Wheel chocks (safety first)
Ratchet handle, 3/8" drive
Ratchet handle, 1/2" drive
3/8" drive 12mm socket for upper ball joint studs (I think) and definitely used to install sway bar drop brackets
3/8" drive 14mm socket to loosen and tighten top shock mount
1/2" drive 17mm (I think) socket and wrench for differential drop. Definitely used for bottom shock mount.
3/8" drive 10mm socket. I don't think I've ever worked on my truck without having to use a 10mm socket. So it had to be used somewhere in the lift installation process
3/8" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive torque wrench to torque bottom shock mounts and differential drop brackets.
3/8" drive torque wrench to torque upper ball joint studs
Pickle fork to separate ball joints from spindle (if you're installing new ball joints)
Needle nose pliers to remove cotter pin from ball joint stud (again, only if installing new ball joints)
Crowbar
Penetrating oil (PB Blaster is the best I've used so far)
Mountain Dew Voltage (Not absolutely necessary. It's just a tasty beverage to enjoy while wrenching
)
The only real specialty tool is the pickle fork, but it's not needed if you're not installing new ball joints.
Hopefully someone else chimes in to confirm the sizes. Again, it's been a while.

Jack
Jackstands
Wheel chocks (safety first)
Ratchet handle, 3/8" drive
Ratchet handle, 1/2" drive
3/8" drive 12mm socket for upper ball joint studs (I think) and definitely used to install sway bar drop brackets
3/8" drive 14mm socket to loosen and tighten top shock mount
1/2" drive 17mm (I think) socket and wrench for differential drop. Definitely used for bottom shock mount.
3/8" drive 10mm socket. I don't think I've ever worked on my truck without having to use a 10mm socket. So it had to be used somewhere in the lift installation process
3/8" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive torque wrench to torque bottom shock mounts and differential drop brackets.
3/8" drive torque wrench to torque upper ball joint studs
Pickle fork to separate ball joints from spindle (if you're installing new ball joints)
Needle nose pliers to remove cotter pin from ball joint stud (again, only if installing new ball joints)
Crowbar
Penetrating oil (PB Blaster is the best I've used so far)
Mountain Dew Voltage (Not absolutely necessary. It's just a tasty beverage to enjoy while wrenching
)The only real specialty tool is the pickle fork, but it's not needed if you're not installing new ball joints.
Hopefully someone else chimes in to confirm the sizes. Again, it's been a while.
Thanks! Just making sure it can be done without air compressor and using some tools and elbow grease. Should I go ahead and do the BJs since I would be doing everything else?
#11
In this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-3-0-a-279112/ you say it has 280,000 miles on it. Assuming you have the same ball joints that came from the factory in 1994, I'd say it's time to replace them
Last edited by 93Xtra-Cab; Mar 27, 2014 at 09:18 AM.
#12
In this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-3-0-a-279112/ you say it has 280,000 miles on it. Assuming you have the same ball joints that came from the factory in 1994, I'd say it's time to replace them 

I am not sure. I would assume that they have been replaced at some point but I will need to check them out once I get a chance to!
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