Idler arm replacement questions... wheel bearings too.
#1
Idler arm replacement questions... wheel bearings too.
I am going to replace my idler arm this weekend as well as the front wheel bearings and I have a few ?'s.
Do I need a pickle fork to get the idler arm off or is it just the 4 bolts on the frame and the one that attaches to the steering rod?
I am getting the arm and bushing together.
Can i go in there and swap it out on the ground or do I need to take the load off the wheels or anything? Should I keep the wheel straight when doing it or is there a better option?
I am also going to replace the front wheel bearings.
I will be getting these from oriellys or autozone etc..
I am going to get the bearings, and seals is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? I will get the grease from toyota I guess.
From reading it seems that I dont need a puller for these bearings and that the only special tool I need is a 54mm socket.
Any tips are appreciated. thanks!
Do I need a pickle fork to get the idler arm off or is it just the 4 bolts on the frame and the one that attaches to the steering rod?
I am getting the arm and bushing together.
Can i go in there and swap it out on the ground or do I need to take the load off the wheels or anything? Should I keep the wheel straight when doing it or is there a better option?
I am also going to replace the front wheel bearings.
I will be getting these from oriellys or autozone etc..
I am going to get the bearings, and seals is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? I will get the grease from toyota I guess.
From reading it seems that I dont need a puller for these bearings and that the only special tool I need is a 54mm socket.
Any tips are appreciated. thanks!
#2
I'll be doing my idler arm this weekend as well... the only thing I suggest is buying a truss from NWOR to make it stronger.
http://www.northwestoffroad.com/part...omponents.html
scroll down to the truss.
http://www.northwestoffroad.com/part...omponents.html
scroll down to the truss.
#3
It's a tapered stud where the idler arm attaches to the steering rod. I don't know that you will need a pickle fork, but it may make separating that joint easier. You may want to turn the wheel all the way to the right to give yourself more space. This repair would be easier with the wheel off and out of the way.
#5
Have any idea as to what size? I think they come in a few different sizes.
#6
Usually there are 2 sizes. you want the smaller one.
I always use the pickle fork attachment that goes on an air hammer. Takes about a second or two but you have to have an air compressor.
With the right applied force in the right spot you can get them off with only a hammer. But thats here on the left coast where they don't rust.
I always use the pickle fork attachment that goes on an air hammer. Takes about a second or two but you have to have an air compressor.
With the right applied force in the right spot you can get them off with only a hammer. But thats here on the left coast where they don't rust.
#7
Usually there are 2 sizes. you want the smaller one.
I always use the pickle fork attachment that goes on an air hammer. Takes about a second or two but you have to have an air compressor.
With the right applied force in the right spot you can get them off with only a hammer. But thats here on the left coast where they don't rust.
I always use the pickle fork attachment that goes on an air hammer. Takes about a second or two but you have to have an air compressor.
With the right applied force in the right spot you can get them off with only a hammer. But thats here on the left coast where they don't rust.
I picked up a small pickle fork and some grease so I've got everything I need now.
thanks for the info guys.
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#8
I got the idler arm replaced today. Had to use the pickle fork for sure. The bearings will have to wait a few days, I am going to have to order a 54mm socket as I cant find one around here anywhere.
Last edited by poynter; Jan 16, 2010 at 06:28 PM.
#11
Neither a chisel nor a pickle fork are technically the "right" tool. Too likely to damage the boot.
A puller like is better:

The great thing is it works for all the steering connections - pitman, idler, tie rods - everything
A puller like is better:
The great thing is it works for all the steering connections - pitman, idler, tie rods - everything
#13
Yeah I've got the inner and outer bearings and races and the seals.
I wasn't worried about the boot since I was replacing the whole arm and bushing together.
I was going to let my truck sit for the rest of the week but the battery in my car was dead this morning. I gotta get a battery tender hooked up on it. last winter I ended up having to replace the battery after charging it too many times.
I wasn't worried about the boot since I was replacing the whole arm and bushing together.
I was going to let my truck sit for the rest of the week but the battery in my car was dead this morning. I gotta get a battery tender hooked up on it. last winter I ended up having to replace the battery after charging it too many times.
#14
But you need different sizes for the different jobs. One puller doesn't do it all. And as stated, if replacing the part with new, who cares about the boot?
#15
On our trucks, YES, one puller DOES do it all.
#17
News to me. I am farily certain that the large spread jaws on a puller that will pull a pitman arm will be too wide for tie rod use.
Also watch out that the little point on the pusher stud doesn't go and mash out or mushroom the hollow part of the tie rod. (where the cotter pin goes through).
Hey mightymouse, I went to Lafayette Sr. High over there back in the early 80's. Ballwin was nice back then. Now I hear its a bit ghetto
Also watch out that the little point on the pusher stud doesn't go and mash out or mushroom the hollow part of the tie rod. (where the cotter pin goes through).
Hey mightymouse, I went to Lafayette Sr. High over there back in the early 80's. Ballwin was nice back then. Now I hear its a bit ghetto
#18
ghetto is an understatement! nah it's not that bad it's what you make of it. You can probably understand stl. is one of those cities that is great one block and scary as hell the next. I kinda digg pickle forks for a lot of suspension parts when replacing the whole piece but use the puller when i don't want to screw it up. Kinda depends on the job.
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