On your website you say 150 ft/lbs on carrier adjusters= 15 in/lb preload on bearings.

I tightened adjusters to 100ft/lbs and discovered the yoke to turn very tight.


Can you give me the steps to do this properly? Thanks,


-Glen

 

http://gearinstalls.com/cbpl.htm

 

yoke turns tight? 10~30 inch/pounds is what you might measure on the pinion flange with the ring gear in place is normal

.....Did you lose all your backlash? un-even tightening of the adjusters....

 

This is how I am doing it,

1) Tighten bearing cap bolts slightly, 10 lbs?

2) Set adjusters slightly over hand tight using home made tool to get BL.

3) Torque cap bolts to 70 FT/LBS

4) Evenly torque adjusters to 100 ft/lbs (so far)

5) BL = .008

At this point I have a tight pinion flange. A lot of hand torque needed to turn.

I am using a home made adjuster tools w/torque wrench. A flat plate w 3/4" bolt in center and grade 8 studs that fit snugly into carrier adjuster slots - one for ARB side and one for standard side. Is 100 ft/lbs for these home made tools different from normal?

 

did you oil the bearings?? I would think you did but you never know. i did mine to 150ftlbs and its not too hard. not sure what else it could be. you might PM zuk hes a very helpful guy, helped me on my elocker sure he will help you figure it out.

 

Thanks cougar,

Yea,

I dipped them in gear oil. Never seize on the adjuster threads. 100 FT/lbs is hella tight for those adjusters. I hope not getting torque multiplication w/my home made stuff...

 

I just tighten the 4 bearing cap bolts to 70 from the get go. If done properly, the adjusters will still turn with just your fingers. I have noticed that some of the ARB adjuster wheels bind up in the OEM threads and that is difficult to deal with.

I doubt you could get too much on the CBPL.....a torque wrench is a torque wrench....and I see that you have one there in the pic.

100 is probably a minimum on new carrier bearings. So, without measuring the PPL then it's hard to say what considered hard to turn. 22 inch/pound is a number I recall when I measured the combined pre-loads of the pinion and carrier bearings. What you are feeling might be normal. I can't say without a number.

Basically, a good snug pinion will have 14 inch/pound of pre-load by itself.......add in another 10~14 for the added load of properly set carrier bearings.

Good job on the simple yet effective tools there

 

I dissasembled the carrier and inspected it to figure out what is wrong... found nothing obvious.

Reassembled and torqued carrier adjusters to 100 ft/LBS w/.005 BL. 32inch/pounds was required to turn pinion flange nut.

I then torqued the adjusters to 130 ft/lbs. This locked the pinion flange. The torque required to turn pinion flange exceeded 20 foot/lbs.

I backed off the adjusters about 1/2" +- on each side and I could rotate the pinion flange almost freely by hand.

I am going to set adjusters at 100 and be done with it unless anyone has a suggestion.

Thanks,

Glen

 

Help ZUK!

The threads on the ARB adjuster are bottomed out and I can't get less than .005 BL.

When I adjust for .006-.008 BL and try to tighten the ARB adjuster to set CBPL it locks the carrier/pinion, but I can tighten the stock toyota side to 150 ft/lb and it works fine.

I noticed the master install kit has shims for carrier bearings. If I were to add some shims under the bearing on the ARB adjuster side of the carrier it would give me some threads for torquing the ARB adjuster.

The problem is, How do I get the bearing off the carrier to add shims? It's butted up tight and my seperator and/or puller won't do it.

Am I OK just torquing the stock toyota adjuster to get CBPL and not add shims?

Sorry to keep bothering you. Can I buy you a virtual Coke/Beer?

 

Glad to help out gandude-
ya....you should be ok to torque down on the other side to 150 ft/lb. But make sure you do the tap-tap on the caps while rotating the pinion a little....that allows the carrier bearings to equalize tension with each other. That means that 150 on one side will be equal to 150 on the other too. If your backlash is still good at that point then you are ok to run it. ARB usually supplys the large diameter shims that go on the outside of the carrier bearing so you should not need to pull the bearing off. And, you are right, no way in hell of getting that bearing off with cutting it off like I do. Although, some of the models will allow you to push it off if you are willing to remove the side-lid and access it from the inside.

 

Thinking about grandude....seems kind of unusual to run out of thread on the ARB side.....I never did with my installs. I distinctly remember them supplying some 4" diameter shims(some thin and at least one was about .100" thick). I recall using the thick one per the pictorials they supplied. That's probably why you are bottoming out....

 

I talked to Niles(sp) w/ARB (their Toyota guru) and he said my carrier bearings are wrong -

the old ones were KOYO TR100802-2-N (the correct ones for ARB) *
the new ones are KOYO LM104912 (not good for ARB) *

*Note that these are the race numbers as the bearing number are hidden on the new ones. The new master install kit is Yukon YK-TV6

He also thinks my case is the same as a stock 4.88 case and thus incompatable. G254 is the Toyota Gear Code on my truck. (had 4.56 gears) as I understand it, this case is machined differently and according to him 4.56 gears are very rare... Niles had never seen them in a Toyota.

Also of note, this ARB RD23 was made in 2003 and they stopped production in late 2003 on this unit. Yes, it and my front RD90 have been sitting on my shelf new in the box since 2003!

What do I do...? Getting very frustrated.

 

I thought you were on vacation fishing and camping? LOL!! Will you be around this fall/winter? Sorry to hi-jack the thread.

Sorry OP, you may continue

James