Im a chevy guy workin on my friends Toyota for free. Replacing CV shafts turned into a nightmare!! Ok so heres the deal once i got it all figured out I managed to do the passanger side just fine. Switched over to the driver side and now when I finally got the CV shaft out after having a stripped bolt I get to where I need to pry the lower control arm down. It doesnt budge, nothing is left hooked up to the control arm. Please Help I will get some pics together tomorrow and post them. 1987 Toyota P/U The kid he bought it from was not the brightest, had 3/8 Motor mount bolts on and 2 of 4 motor mount to frame bolts ripped him off at 2000$

 

www.ncttora.com/fsm

Welcome to Yotatech.

Please search for answers as there is a lot of info here.

 

dont take this the wrong way, where is the jack sittin. and by nothing, you mean NOTHING? no shock, no links. even after all of your hindrances are gone, they are still a pain to change.
Welcome to YT!

 

Whole front end is on jack stands. Nothing left is stopping me from being able to push the control arm down. Just doesn't seem to wanna move at all The jack stands are clear from the control arm

 

the only linkage left is the steering linkage but thats not hooked up to the control arm so shouldn't matter.

 

the wabbit posted the fsm. take a look at that, its very helpful. i had to finagle mine out, took about an hour, and that was after i was ready for it to come out.

 

Dang, I changed both of mine in 1-1/2 hours start to finish, didn't read the FSM & didn't break a sweat?

 

Some people are just "speshul"

 

took me 45 minutes on the driver side to replace wheel bearings and CV, being the first time on a IFS truck thats gotta mean something For some reason I can't get the driver side figured out. Tomorrow I'll mess with it some more, thanks for the FSM link helped out a bit.

 

Thats what my wife told me.

 

Really, IIRC I just got a pry bar & popped it out from underneath at the diff. Exactly where is it hanging up? Not coming off at the diff?

 

Lower balljoint and the control arm wont seperate. Passanger side was a breeze but driver side wont budge at all

 

You don't need to separate the lower BJ. I think I disconnected the upper BJ, unbolted the flange at the diff, used a pry bar to separate the cv & diff, then lower the diff side of the CV & pulled it out from underneath. It's been awhile but I don't recall removing like what you are talking about.

 

i didn't remove either of the ball joints. 1 hour after i finished the job, i decided that i would disconnect the upper next time.

 

On the passanger side I removed the Lower ball joint nut and then just pried put a bar in and separated the steering knuckle from the lower control arm, worked really easy got it in and ready to be put together in under 10 min. Alls i needed to remove was the shock. Tomorrow I will try what you just said with the Upper balljoint, seems like It could be my best bet.

 

I lost (got stolen) a 5:29 with a TT diff this way... B/c I couldnt get the CV over the dang studs!


The studs on the inside "drive flange" are splined and pressed in. Do yourself a favor and knock them out and the CV should come right out...

Don't do this and you could push the grease cap out of the back of the tripod trying to get it over the studs...

They left me a 12mm wrench though...

 

Got it, disconnected the upper ball joint from the control arm hit it with a hammer and it popped right out. Strange that It was different from the passenger side. It's nice to have a place to bounce ideas around till you get the right one. Next question is. Push the clutch down try to start it and the starter will not engage, did it with the old starter aswell. I'm thinking it has something to do with the previous owner being a D-bag and not bolting the transmission completely to the block, So I will have to put new bolts in. I wont be working on it for a few more days now cause i'm out of cash. Think this will correct the problem?

 

that could be, but also check your power and grounds. does it just click or nothing at all?

 

Well it works one time and then after that it doesnt work. With the old start we keept hitting it till it would work, and that would work fine. Then the new one it still does this. Now that you say that it could be a ground problem cause it just clicks and doesnt continue spinning the starter gear

 

really sounds like a weak battery/ground problem

check your ground wires and your resistance. Take your multi-meter and touch one end to the housing of the starter when it's installed and the other to the battery. check the manual for the value you should be seeing. there are lots of links on here to factory manuals online.

if you get it running, check to see what the battery voltage is. should be somewhere between 14 and 15v. alternator not charging may explain why the battery's not really engaging the starter either.

the other possibility here is, toyota starters also tend to wear out contacts after a while. it kinda sounds like a half and half deal to me and if you bought a rebuilt starter well ... it's not the first time I've gotten a rebuilt part that wasn't really rebuilt.