I have a beat to death 4runner that I probably should have passed on but decided to buy cuz I wanted one so bad. 86, 5spd, 22re, stock everything except 32 inch tires on steel wheels. 320,000 miles. Oh my god, what was I thinking?

I'm not a hardcore rock crawler or trying to climb trees with the thing- I just use the truck to go camping in very difficult places to get to where no one else could easily get to. I bought the truck because I got tired of pushing my civic over rocks, getting stuck over and over and at one point losing my muffler. I like to go wheeling for the purpose of reaching destinations rather than to just wheel. But I won't lie, if I see a big hill I definitely try to go up it for fun. The truck has had hit some pretty gnarly trails and has done done great.

It is leaking on the front diff and rear. The trans sounds like a crying child and I know it is near the end of its life. Front caliper is leaking. Engine is running on 3 cylinders after last camping trip... That's another issue, loose/bad injector connector or injector. After I do the brakes and fix my motor...

I want to re gear because it sucks with the stock gearing and 32s. I eventually want to get ball joint spacers and small body lift to go to 33s. I want to go to 4.88s.

Since the diffs and driveshaft are leaking so they need to be addressed. I want to build it right for my needs while fixing this stuff without spending too much on stuff that won't benefit me.

Should I try to buy a stock diff that already has 4.88's? Just buy the gears and have a good shop out them in? Get a supra LSD? Do you think I need lockers? What is the cheapest way to make my truck regeared to 4.88? Which gears (manufacturer) would you recommend for price and quality? Doing the gears before trans should be ok right?

Yes, I've done a Search and haven't found anything that relates to my particular needs. But feel free to yell at me. Thanks!

 

factory 4.88 gearset will be the cheapest option for getting regeared. toss in a lunchbox locker before install - doesn't require a gear setup. you'll be fine doing the diffs before the trans, but definitely figure out what is wrong with the trans - or at least which bearing is whining. it's possible that just a good gear oil (like Redline 90wt) will quiet it down, but if it's bad then a rebuild/replace is the ultimate solution, though much more expensive.

i would say simply focus on getting the rig running/driving properly before really throwing mods on the truck. Definitely fix your brakes sooner than later, that's a safety issue. Mods can come as your needs develop. Trail Gear has some cheap armor options for you - something as simple as rock sliders might be an earlier addition since they can help for something as minor as door dings. Items like a winch/front bumper can come much later as your needs/skills develop.

I would personally do my mods somewhat in this progression:
Brakes, engine, drivelines/joints, diff seals, trans, replace worn IFS parts, shocks -- to get your rig running properly and safe for the road.
rock sliders, minor lift, regear, rear locker, tires, IFS truss, idler arm brace, spare CV and other parts -- to get you further down the trail.
rear bumper, front bumper, front locker, winch (do Toyotas truly NEED one???) dual cases, belly protection, sas -- once you've gotten further down the trail you start getting to where you may need more crawl-specific mods.

 

Good info, thanks. Yes, the engine is good to go, I just knocked something loose during my last desert trip. Found one of the injector wires unclipped and now it only runs on 3 cylinders. Then brakes are my next concern. Theres a guy who rebuilds trans in my area for 600 with a core. I changed the fluid, the poor sucker is a goner. Im just going to drive it until it wont shift .

the PO got a rear bumper and sliders so Im blessed there. Winch and bumper are down the road.

So stock 4.88s front and rear from a 92-95 4runner auto with tow package correct? What would be a fair price for a set?

 

Start at the bottom and work up.

Brakes
Tires

suspension
Drivetrain

If this is as beat as you say it is gonna get expensive.

What kind of budget do you have.

Neglected vehicles costly to get fixed but once all done well worth it.

 

i've seen 4.88s anywhere from $50-800 on the used market. at a non-you-pull salvage yard, i'd say $200-600 as-is. if they are high mileage, it would probably be smart to have them gone through to make sure gear mesh and seals are still good.

 

I have a limited budget. Baby #2 is on the way so I need to prioritize family first. I can only afford to spend a little here and there after the mortgage and baby stuff. But Im not in a rush. The truck is just a fun project that I want to restore little by little.

I was planning on buying the diffs one at a time, or gears one at a time if I cant find factory 4.88's. not really sure what all I need to get, I know I need a rings and pinions, and a gear master install kit for front and back... not sure if there's anything else.

 

Ok so if I did throw in a lunchbox locker, front or rear? Im thinking front because it is never engaged unless I lock the hubs for 4x4, right?

The is definitely not my daily driver, but I do a lot of street/highway driving to get to my destinations.

 

start looking for the diffs, you may find a good deal. The IFS diff will be harder to find IMO if you're not looking for a F/R pair. If rebuilding, yes you will need gear sets, install kits, solid spacer is a good idea, then your misc items like seals, etc. Then you'll need the skills or money to pay someone with skills to correctly set the gears. If you're replacing diffs, it's a good idea to have new rear axle seals on hand. Low-profile drain plugs are also a good idea while you're putting it back together. It's also a good time to rebuild your ujoints while you have stuff apart.

I would put the locker in the rear. just a rear locker with 2wd is about as capable as open diff 4wd. steering will be very hard with a front locker when it's engaged - for safety reasons i would personally go selectable locker in the front, like an ARB, if i had the coin. i haven't even noticed my LockRite except for when going around sharp-ish turns on pavement. It was also a convenient deterrent/excuse for not letting anyone else drive my truck unless they know how to drive a rig with a locker in the rear.

another option for you is to buy drop-in differential from a reputable dealer. cost-wise it's slightly more effective than having a diff setup from scratch. you also get brand new parts, a warranty, and save time.

 

spartan front / lincoln rear. cheap and effective if done right. not the best but you said this isnt your daily driver so a little inconvenience in comfort on the road shouldnt be a big deal. 488 on 33s with a 3" lift and you should be happy with a week end get away rig. get the truck safe and dependable first. then gears, lift, tires, lockers.

 

actually, here's a front 4.88: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4370989299.html

 

Ok one last question before this is beat to death - I've searched and can't seem to find if the lunchbox lockers like the lock rite or Aussie will fit in factory v6 gears and housing? Anyone know?

Thanks for everyone's replies!

 

Can't remember what one. But wasn't there a factory gear set that you couldn't get a locker to work with? Might just be temporally crazy but I thought I remembered reading that one didn't work with lockers.

LOOK Shiny object->

 

LockRite #1620 fits the V6 and turbo 22re rear diffs

 

i bought mine for a 4cyl ifs diff with 410s and ended up using it in a 6cyl ifs diff w/factory 488s