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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 05:55 PM
  #1  
wideblock's Avatar
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From: las cruces nm
a few newbie problems....

im relativly new to the toy scene, owned a few but never had to work on them. now i am getting one back to life to use as a daily ride and im having troubles. not a newbie to working on vehicles, but this is my first non american attempt.

the truck... 1986 2wd long bed 1 ton, 22rec engine, fuel injected, 5spd, has a/c and power steering.

the problems:

(pardon my verbage, im a hot rod guy and dont speak toyota, but im sure youll understand what im saying whether i use the proper terms or not.)

1: after it sits over night it takes forever to start. im getting fire, so it has to be a fuel problem. the thing is, once it starts, the rest of the day it will start super easy. no matter how long it sits during the day, she will fire up real fast, but let it sit all night, and you have to do some long cranking before it will fire. then when it does, it fires about half second, then it will fire for a second or 2, then for 5 or so seconds, then it starts and runs rough for a few seconds then smooths out and is good to go all day. its almost like the fuel is draining back to the tank over night and is having to repressure everything before she will fire. honestly im guessing when it comes to fuel injection.

2: when i first bought the truck back in 07 and gave it to my dad she ran strong. when you would floor it, it had what seemed like a secondary throttle circuit that would kick in about 3000rpm, kinda like a 4bbl opening up on a v8. now it doesnt do this, you floor it and she pulls the same all the way thru the rpm. if it was one of my carbbed v-8's id swear the secondary butterflys wernt opening, but with the fuel injected 4 banger i dont even know where to start looking. my dads 93 yota has the secondary system as well and will walk all over this truck now. a few years ago they were pretty equally matched.

im kinda wondering if these 2 problems arent related and have to do with a weak or failing fuel pump.

i posted a while back about this truck having a real bad overheating problem, well that turned out to be a improperly installed thermostat. dad changed it when the old one stuck closed but failed to notice it had an offset opening and had it installed where it hit the casting and wouldnt open all the way. at least i think thats it, when i pulled it, and noticed it was offset i was carefull to reinstall where it cleared and would open all the way, now it doesnt over heat even with the a/c on. so i think i solved it..lol.

also when i pull the compression check, whats considered a good psi reading??? im getting 160psi+/-

any thoughts on these 2 issues would be greatly appreciated. i dont get to the comp as often as id like, so if you want any more info i will do my best to answer it.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 06:12 PM
  #2  
iamsuperbleeder's Avatar
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From: Lake City, Fl
#1 sounds like a faulty cold start injector and/or thermo switch

#2, ummmm, maybe just needs a tune up? Just keep in mind like you said afterall, it is a 4cyl, not a hot rod with a V8



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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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From: las cruces nm
Originally Posted by iamsuperbleeder
#1 sounds like a faulty cold start injector and/or thermo switch

#2, ummmm, maybe just needs a tune up? Just keep in mind like you said afterall, it is a 4cyl, not a hot rod with a V8



how do i locate and possibly test the thermo switch or cold start circuit??

as far as the tune up goes, that was thew first thing i did. it got a fresh tank of 93 octane and the plugs, cap, rotor, wires, and O2 sensor were all replaced 4 days ago. if i hadnt driven the truck before, or any other toyota truck for that fact, i really wouldnt think much of the lack of power. in this case i know for sure the truck used to pull harder and run a lot stronger then it does. i checked the mileage since i gave it to dad, just a shade over 10k miles have been put on it in the past 3 years and dad says he never had the problem with lack of power before it was parked for overheating right at a year ago.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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Check the thermo time switch, if its bad it will cause hard starting, also replace the fuel filter and give it a complete tune up and that should help out a lot.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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where is the filter??? i traced the line from the injection rail to the tank and never found a fuel filter. is it in the tank???
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:02 PM
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From: GrangeVille, Idaho
The fuel filter is under the intake manifold above the starter, if you traced the fuel line from the fuel rail back to the tank there is now way you could have missed the fuel filter.
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by myyota
The fuel filter is under the intake manifold above the starter, if you traced the fuel line from the fuel rail back to the tank there is now way you could have missed the fuel filter.
The 22RE fuel pump location is terrible. Not sure if it's the same on yours but for my 4Runner, on the passenger fender well, there is a cover held on with about 4 bolts; remove it and you get better access to the oil filter, AND the fuel filter. Then it's time for flare wrenches and rags Filters are cheap-less than $15 I think.

Good luck!
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 05:40 AM
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mine has a rubber line from the fuel rail to the hard line on the firewall. then there is hard line all the way back to the tank. at the end of the hard line there is a fitting that is attached to another piece of rubber line that goes to the sending unit. no where in that line is a filter. ill check up under the intake and see if perhaps it was bypassed for some reason.

where is this thermo switch you guys are talking about??
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Old Mar 8, 2010 | 06:26 AM
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
the thermotime switch (google it or get a chilton/FSM to understand it more and where it is on your car) is used for cold start scenarios. it acts as an additional fuel injector for EFI models (not sure about carbed...) and basically injects more gas than needed when the engine is cold, to help get things going and compensate for the cold conditions. Usually, it's an issue in colder climates only. It works when cold and then, when the engine warms up, it closes (hence the name). If the temp sensing part is faulty, it won't work and you may be missing out on needed extra fuel at start.

You can test it with an Ohmmeter (I did on my datsun when I was doing smog work this summer.).

Sounds like it's time to get an FSM
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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From: las cruces nm
man that thermo time switch is an expensive little bugger. i do need a good FSM, i have one for all my other trucks. have to see where to locate one for the toy. i rechecked the truck for a filter and found it under the intake just as described. seems what i traced out before was the stinkin return line NOT the pressure line. once again, not used to fuel injection, kinda assumed there was only one line. it looks like its gonna be a bear to change. if my daughter was stronger id get her little hands in there to help out....lol

thanks for the advice so far
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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From: las cruces nm

Last edited by wideblock; Mar 9, 2010 at 06:47 PM. Reason: double posted...oops
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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hey wideblock the fuel filter isn't as hard as you think. On my4x4 toyota there is an access panel in the passenger side wheel well held on by four bolts. Remove the tire and the access panel and it's not that hard. Hopefully it's the same on your 2wd model. I agree with the previous posters that a simple and proper tune up including the fuel filter will do your truck wonders. Use denso or ngk plugs if you haven't already. also check and set your valve lash. it's easy and simple to do. Don't forget to replave the pvc valve while you're at it. I know it's not super important but it's a cheap part and always helps if your's is clogged. If no one responded to your original question about the psi in your cylinders 160 is ok. sorry if some one responded already.
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wideblock
also when i pull the compression check, whats considered a good psi reading??? im getting 160psi+/-
BTW, 160 is pretty bitchen PSI for that motor...
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 07:27 PM
  #14  
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did a full tune up right off the bat. plugs, cap, wires, rotor, and oxygen sensor. made it run good once its warm, but didnt help the cold start problem. plus it still doesnt have the power it had 10k miles ago. im going to do a fuel pressure check both cold and hot this weekend and see where that leads. i have a gut feeling the fuel line is not staying up over night. it acts as if the line is haveing to be refilled and pressurized before the first start up every day. also gonna swap the filter out and do an oil change. never seen oil this black. im thinking dad hasnt changed it since he got it..lol

btw, i used autolite plugs, does it really matter that much on the type???
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 01:01 PM
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Just curious if i you've ever solved your problem, Wideblock? And, since no one answered this, ....YES, plugs matter. Denso are, by far, the most recommended for these trucks. Seems MANY sensors and otherwise aftermarket products don't seem to jive with the Toyota ECU very well.

Hope you've got it figured out.

Chef
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 02:09 PM
  #16  
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Definatly use Denso plugs, it does make a difference.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 05:30 AM
  #17  
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been meaning to get back on and post some progress. sorry for the delay, the only comp i have working is at the office and its not always easy to get a few minutes when im here.

i wound up flipping a coin between the thermo switch and the fuel pump, fuel pump won. so i swapped the pump and the pick up screen and the truck is running like a champ. she sits for weeks at a time now when im out of town for work and when i get home it fires up like i drove it yesterday. i regained a little power, enough to notice, and the stumble it had when she first fires up is gone. seems the weak pump was the culprit for a few problems.

also, im here to tell you there is no access panel on a 2wd to get to that stinkin fuel filter. at one point i had one arm thru the fender well, the other over the top of the fender snaked back behind the manifold because there isnt room for both hands to work both wrenches. what a crappy placement. good thing im 6'4" and have long arms or id have been screwed. so shes running great now, but parked once again due to the u-joints. when they squeek a rythm going down the road, its time to replace them...LOLOL one more project for my free time.
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