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PROBLEM SOLVED/FIXED. See page 6 for details. It was "all the valves were stuck/sticking" producing very low compression which kept it from running.
Hello. Just finished the project and the new rebuild won't continue to run after cold start injector fires first round. I think it's something electrical, not hooked up correctly. I put a paper clip in the driver side socket deal on the inside fender and turned on power. I get the check engine light which flashes 11 times then pauses for 5 seconds and repeats 11 flashes over and over. Here are some pictures of the engine bay. If you see anything out of place, installed incorrectly/wrong spot, etc. Let me know please. It seems like the injectors are not firing so the truck won't run. Timing is correct and confirmed. There are several plugs NOT plugged into anything and this may be the problem, however I don't see any inlets for them so I don't know. The power steering deal has two medium hoses going into it. It's marked 4 and 6 (see pic), not sure which one goes to which. Anyhow, first person (toyota wizard) that gets this thing figured out and running gets something from me.... I'll buy you a part or accessory you need, anything under 50 bucks. This project has taken me over a year to build and I want to finish it.... I'm in the home stretch (only myself working on it). If you need more pics, info, etc, just fire away and I'll post it up. THANK YOU. NOTE: EGR and AIR INJECTION systems have been removed. Anything I'm supposed to do other than removing and plating off?
Last edited by zerokelvin; 07-14-2018 at 05:02 PM.
Reason: more information
You need to search for similar problems and how people approach it. Your's is not a rare issue.
Need a better description of the problem. You need to put us in front of your engine compartment. What do you see, hear, feel, smell?
"Won't stay running"....
Exactly what do you do that gets it running?
Exactly what do you do right before it won't keep running?
How do you know when the cold start injector fires? That only fires when you cranking and when engine's cold. My thread explains how Cold start injector works.
Originally Posted by zerokelvin
...in the driver side socket deal on the inside fender ...
A picture paints more words than these^^^. There are many sockets on the inside fender.
No, it has been off the whole time. Someone did tell me about this and I hooked up both the stock system and aftermarket "cold air intake" I bought. Didn't run with either on there... same thing, fires up off cold start injector then dies. I also propped open the door inside the AFM to see if that would work, still not running.
Hooked the stock intake up again, just to be sure. Same thing... fires up one cycle off cold start injector then dies. Door on AFM does open up a little bit when it's started.
... fires up one cycle off cold start injector then dies....
Incomplete description.
Dies when u let go of ignition swittch?
Dies even when u keep ignition switch in START position?
Did u jump B+ to FP terminal of fuel pump test connector?
How do you know it is the CSI that makes it run?
Hey Rad, thanks for the post. I'm not super savvy on the 4runner's electrical system or much of the technical side. I'm pretty good with the mechanical part of the build. I posted this in the "newbie section" as I don't know much about this.... please bare with me.
1. It does not die when I let go of ignition switch. It will START and I let off the key. It runs through a cycle (all four cylinders, audibly) and possibly a couple more... then dies.
2. If I keep ignition switch at start AFTER it started, it just turns the engine and will not start again. I think this is because the cold start injector just fires once to get it going? So after that, it seems it has no fuel to fire up again... just cranks.
3. "Did u jump B+ to FP terminal of fuel pump test connector?" I don't know what B+ to FP terminal means. I don't know where the fuel pump test connector is. When I put the key in and turn power on (not start), I can hear the pump running, and I can go over to the gas tank and hear it even louder running.
4. I don't know what the CSI is. I am aware that there are a couple checks the computer needs in order to run this engine AND a ton of other stuff that produce a running engine. I was speculating on what I "think" is causing it to not run. Again, it seems like a fuel delivery problem in the end. No fuel may be caused by an electrical issue, vacuum issue or many other things I'm sure. I've worked on many engines (mechanically) like motorcycles, 4 wheelers, small engines, car engines, truck engines, etc. which is why I think it's a fuel issue.
AH! CSI= Cold Start Injector? I took the injector off of the plenum and turned the key to the start position. I can SEE fuel spray out of the injector AND the engine does not start..... just cranks. When I put the cold start injector back into the plenum, turn key to start position, it fires up... then dies.
I'm sure I could also spray carb cleaner or anything like that into the intake while someone starts it and continue to spray and the engine would likely continue running. Seems like fuel injectors are not firing fuel...
Now we're talking
But are we talking 22R-E here? Please see signature
".. When I put the key in and turn power on (not start), I can hear the pump running..."
If 22RE, the fuel pump does not run until you are cranking or when engine is already running and airflow keeps Circuit Opening Relay energized.
You verified that you have spark, correct?
IF 22RE, when you crank, you should hear the C.O.R. click (to turn on the fuel pump) behind the glove compartment. Do you?
If 22RE, when engine fires, and you let go of ign key, do you hear the C.O.R. click again (to turn off the FP) before it dies?
If 22RE, you verified that the crimps for ECU to injector wires under/next to the intake manifold are good? Those could get brittle/oxidized and could have been broken during rebuild/reinstall process.
1985 toyota 4runner. 22RE engine/fuel injection EFI.
Perhaps it's NOT the fuel pump I hear? When the key is in and power is on, I hear "something" electronic "running" in or very close to the gas tank. If it's not the fuel pump, because that doesn't turn on until I crank... what is going on/around the gas tank when powered?
Verfied spark yes. All brand new plugs. Tested all four with spark tester wires in between plugs and plug wires, all light up. Also confirmed by engine firing up before it dies.
I don't hear anything when I start/crank the engine except BROOOM! LOL. I have permanent hearing damage from the war in Iraq, 25% in right, 15% in left, so my hearing is not the best. I will listen for the clicks tomorrow morning... I wasn't listening for them particularly, but I will now.
I will also be testing all four injector wires tomorrow for power and when cranking. It is possible they are corroded, broken, no operational, etc... it's the original harness at 33 years old. I'm not certain what you mean by "crimps".
Thanks for the two links. Will read up on those so I understand how they operate.
1985 toyota 4runner. 22RE engine/fuel injection EFI.
I will also be testing all four injector wires tomorrow for power and when cranking. It is possible they are corroded, broken, no operational, etc... it's the original harness at 33 years old. I'm not certain what you mean by "crimps".
Thanks for the two links. Will read up on those so I understand how they operate.
I think that the injectors should see 12 volts all the time and the the ECU grounds the circuit to cause them to open.
Also, the injectors all fire at the same time, they do not fire sequentially like some other engines do.
One of the two single wire connectors that I circled should be for your knock sensor, I belive the yellow one (this won't keep the engine from running though
... I have permanent hearing damage... from the war in Iraq
Sorry about the hearing loss, and thanks for your service... OOORAAH!
There is/are crimp(s) on the ECU to Injector harness.
Do test, inspection below. Then reconnect injectors, disconnect ECU connector and check pins 10 and 20 same way.
While you're there, I suggest you clean up that loom by taking wires that do not really have to run there from that part of the loom and running them around, like along the charcoal canister and/or inner fender. Examples are 4WD and backup switch, starter solenoid control wire (spade terminal), temp sender on top of T-stat housing.
Yes, EE, and Sailor
The Morning USS Tripoli Left for Desert Storm 1 Dec 1990. My 2-month old daughter is giving Saddam the Bird - LOL!
A Couple of Months Later, Mine Hit on The USS Tripoli LPH-10 (No fatality).
Thanks for your service and help here. My older brother is an EE and you both respond very similarly LOL. He won't help me with this because he is impatient with me and I'm stupid
Wish I could understand that diagram, definitely up your alley. I'm sure you look at that and understand what it all means. It might as well be in chinese for me....
There isn't a "1 banana job" diagram.. with pictures of all inlets and outlets and locations... would be a lot easier for me that way :/
I'll get the testing done tonight... busy today with life stuff.
Used a "noid" tester on all injector plugs. All came back pulsing lights... I have power to injectors. Tested fuel pressure at the CSI and fuel pressure regulator, both came back 40 in the ON position and held steady while firing up/cranking. I don't have a stethoscope for the injectors so I don't know if they are firing/opening/pulsing. Found a home for the Yellow plug on the harness... there was an inlet on the side of the block in between the fuel filter and the oil filter, fit right on. When I turn the key to ON position, I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump running... even though it's not supposed to. I also hear at the fuel rail, what sounds like liquid spraying into something. Back at the gas tank, I also hear what sounds like fluid (small stream) being poured into the gas tank.... returning from fuel pressure regulator at fuel rail? If it's not the fuel pump I hear running... what is that noise? It sounds electronic in nature.
This may seem like some dumb questions... but I'm just trying to think about the problem. I haven't put fluid in any of the systems I thought didn't matter for a running engine.
1. Does the clutch have to be pressed in to start the truck?
2. Is it possible that my fuel pump electrically is backwards somehow? Meaning, when the key is in the ON position, the fuel pump runs, THEN when I start/crank the engine, the fuel pump turns off?
05-23-2018, 12:53 PM
