Kusotare

Long time reader, first time poster. I've been all over the forums here the past few days and did not find an answer to my question so I apologize if it's been answered already.

I have a 2000 Taco, TRD, 3.4, 5spd. It's bone stock except for the BFG A/T's that are of stock size and a fiberglass topper. My issue is that when I am rolling slowly I can hear a sort of low frequency intermittent grinding sound. I say intermittent as it only grinds for about half a revolution of the drive shaft, but it is always present. It speeds up as the truck does. The frequency of the sound is definitely slow enough that it is not the clutch as it is not high enough to match the RPM's of the engine. It matches the turning of the drive shaft. This sound is present whether the clutch pedal is pushed in or not.

The second issue is related and hopefully the same problem since I, as most everyone else, am not made of money. When I am travelling at any speed higher than say 35 everything is normal except for the above mentioned sound. However, when I take my foot off the accelerator I get a sound like air filling a tire, a sort of high frequency whoosh or whir (yes, that is the technical term for it ). If I push the clutch in, accelerate, or just hold the same speed, that sound goes away. I know it's the sound of a bearing going bad somewhere but where? That's where I was hoping you could help.

I've checked the U-joints, output shaft on the xfer case, the rear pinion shaft and the center bearing. All seem to be normal with zero play, other than the play on the center carrier from the rubber mount.

If I turn the drive shaft it will turn maybe 1/8-1/4 of an inch with the wheels on the ground, e-brake on. There is no vertical or horizontal play on either the xfer case output or the rear end input shafts. I'm hoping that it is not the rear end or an xfer case/transmission problem and that it is the center carrier or U-joint but I'm not sure how to do any further definitive testing.

I would appreciate some suggestions on how to further diagnose this issue with static tests or if anyone has experienced this problem, what you did to correct it.

Sorry for the long post and I appreciate your great site and all the help you've given through the years. (Hey, a little shmoozing never hurts )

Kusotare

So I found that there is some play in the output shaft on the t-case so I'm going to replace the bearing. Any good write-ups or links to doing this on a 2000? I've seen some very good ones on the pre 95's but nothing on my series. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Lysmachia

IIRC that bearing has to be pressed, but I could be wrong. Google your model with replacement of output shaft on t-case. Check 4x4wire.com, YT, and then of course Pirate and see if any of those have a hit....

Lysmachia

Oh and welcome BTW

Kusotare

Thanks for the welcome. I see you're in Boulder. I grew up in Colorado (Aurora, Denver, Broomfield) but am unfortunately stuck in Washington now. Had this Taco all over the trails out there. Even stock it's always done very well. Helps to know where to put the tires when you don't have crazy lift.

Thanks for the info. I've been scouring these and the other forums you mentioned for the last week and haven't found anything for my gen (for the output shaft replacement, plenty of other info) but I did find that it may just be the nut holding the output flange in. I'm going to give that a shot this weekend.

My only concern is that the movement on the shaft is horizontal only so it could also be a bushing as well I suppose. I'll let you know if re-torquing takes care of or at least helps. If not then maybe I'll end up doing a write up if I have to end up replacing the bearing. At that point I'll probably get a rebuild kit if I can find a decent one and just rebuild the whole thing.

Thanks again for your help and I'll keep you posted.

wentz912

It seems to me that if the noise goes away when you put the clutch in that it can't be drivetrain related, and must be contained somehwere within or part of the engine.

Kusotare

The main reason I'm sure it's in the driveline is that the grinding noise is still there with or without the clutch pedal depressed. But with the clutch in and in gear while I'm decelerating is when the whirring noise is present. I'm assuming that when I press the clutch in that it's removing the load from the engine braking effect and allowing the output shaft to return to it's more normal position rather than being pushed forward in it's race. Also that there is about 1/8 inch of horizontal movement on the output shaft.

If I'm wrong in my thinking I'd love to know before I dive in to this for sure. Any other thoughts would be appreciated. Toyota want $66 for the bearing and they'd have to order it. I wouldn't mind getting a beefier one if I can for the same price although I can't complain with 125k miles on this one.

claudebadly

mine is doing the same thing and i tracked it to the rear u-joint and the center carrier flange bearing holder.

Kusotare

My friend and I did some more crawling around under there today (because I'm a bananahead and forgot my jackstands we couldn't run it) and I'm thinking something in that area now as well. The bushing for the center shaft carrier bearing is definitely worn and I may have a bad u-joint. There was one that seemed a little loose when I was prying on it. Need to pry on it a little more. Gonna run it up on the jack stands tomorrow and see if I can tell more where the noise is coming from.

I'm also thinking that it could be the pilot bearing going so it could be multiple things although I hope not. As wentz912 was saying it does make sense that when the clutch is pressed in that the whirring goes away that it could be something on the engine side as well.

We looked at the play on the output shaft and it's only a couple of millimeters and horizontal only. There is no vertical slop at all and no leakage from the seal. So I'm thinking it's ok.

Again I appreciate all input from anyone and will let you know when I get it taken care of. I've had this truck since it was 30k/2years old and plan on keeping it a long time so I to learn as much about it as I can and I'm fairly handy with a wrench. We've got seven Toyota's of various flavors in the family and I'd be hard pressed to own anything else (except my Honda motorcycles ).

Thanks again.

Kusotare

Well, unfortunately the grinding noise is coming from the rear end. Not sure what's blown yet but that's where it's coming from. Nix99 up here in Seattle has rebuilt diffs for $675 with shipping and a 6 month warranty. Couldn't get the whirring noise to happen with the rear end off the ground but pulled the center carrier and it was fine. Hopefully the diff takes care of it. If not then on to the clutch/ pilot bearing. Good thing I can get the whole clutch kit for $140 including friction plate, cover, and bearings. Nice to know someone that works at a Toyota parts warehouse.

Kusotare

Decided to do the clutch first as it's much cheaper than a rear diff. Solved one minor noise issue as that bearing was pretty crunchy but still have the main noises. Unfortunately my input shaft had some play in it and I've noticed that lately when sliding it in to gear while downshifting I'm getting a little noise as well. I'm thinking transmission at this point. Definitely gotta do the wheel bearings as well but I've already got them. And that's something I can do by myself.

Took two days to do the clutch so I'm waiting for my friend to quit hating me before telling him we gotta pull the transmission again. LOL

Nix Mixin

mine started making odd noises too when i swaped tranny's from a 5 to 4 speed. dunno. sounds odd but no performance changes?

Kusotare

No I haven't had any changes in performance, just some noises. I don't want to wait until it fails and leaves me on the side of the road so I'm trying to take care of it before that happens. Unfortunately through the trouble shooting process I've found other things that were bad as well wheel bearings, pilot bearing etc...). I guess that could be fortunate depending on how you look at it.

I did notice that the clutch that was in there was a more heavy duty version. It seemed as though the tranny had been out before so I figured someone might have put a beefier clutch in place of the stock one. It had 30k on it when I bought it so who knows. The pressure plate was definitely harder to push and the flywheel was heavier too. Not sure if I like the new higher revving flywheel or the lower end torque one yet...

Gonna do the wheel bearings next weekend and call a few more places for the tranny work. If I can get someone to rebuild it cheaper than buying an R150F from marlin crawler for $1200 I'd rather do that.

Kusotare

I got the wheel bearings in and it took care of the high speed noise I was having but unfortunately the original problem still exists. Also had to pay Toyota $200 to press the old ones off and the new ones on. I tried the backyard Bob thing, slamming the axles on a block of wood and they didn't budge after about 50 times. I'm 6' 320 lbs and was hittin pretty hard. And I couldn't find a frikkin machine shop within 50 miles of me that would do it. :'(

But that's done so now it's on to the center carrier and ujoints which brings me to my next question. I got the new UJoints but the new ones don't have any zircs for greasing. I've scoured the internet and local shops. I ordered the original Toyota part number (04371-35050HD) that I got from www.toyodiy.com using my VIN as well as just inputting the vehicle type and it comes up with the same part numbers. I've been to every website I can find that has anything to do with Toyotas and parts and they all have the same thing. I know the 2WD's are supposed to have sealed ujoints but the ones on my truck right now are greaseable as I have a 4WD.

Has anyone seen this? I really don't want to go sealed if I don't have to. It doesn't seem to me that they would be nearly as good. Any thoughts opinions are appreciated.

Kusotare

So after a new clutch, wheel bearings and carrier bearing all in the hopes I wouldn't have to do the diff, it turns out to be the diff. I picked up a rebuilt one last Thursday for $675 and put it in this weekend. Runs quiet and smooth now. Thanks to the folks that did offer some suggestions.

Anyone interested in a slightly used rear 2000 Taco e-locker? All the gears are good, just needs new bearings and seals.