GuitarMike

Hi...almost there. I ran my MC dry while changing calipers.......got a cheapo bleeding kit for it, but it only has ONE 10mm fitting that will go to the MC. Right now, the lines/LSPV have been bled, and I half-*ssed the MC but no dice....I have a tiny amt of brake when it's on the floor, but no real pedal yet. It's reasonably firm after the whole bleeding thing, but when running.....to the floor.....ouch.

Question is: can you 'bench bleed' (while on the truck, no less) using only that one fitting and tube to recirculate? Or should I get a 2nd bleeding kit?

If it can be done with one - which do I use, the front line or rear? Of course, one line would then have to stay attached.... How long would you expect to have to pump for until all the air is gone?

Then - any special method of connecting the line(s) after you've done the MC? (I mean, won't air go back up in the MC after you pull the fitting?).

Total noob, I know. Leaving the truck overnight with a full reservoir to make sure there's nothing ELSE going on. I see no drippin's as of now.
Only my brain leakin' out my ears....

Thanks!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Did you do anything with the rear brakes at all??

Emergency brake and every thing working like it should??

sometimes the rear shoes seat themselves and need some adjusting .

Now I think I bled one Master Cylinder like 35 years ago more pain then anything else. because like you said once you disconnect the bleeder kit you have introduced air in the lines

Do you maybe have a loose fitting or some dirt sometimes the leak will be so small yet allow to suck air in.

Are you using a pressure or vacuum bleeder or the old two person pump and crack system:jessica:

Now with me never bleeding the LSPV it takes a long time to get the air out of the front wheel that the lines run up to my 87`s that is on the right side.

hope that helps some or gives you more ideas

GuitarMike

Hey WY,

Did nothing to the rears...AFAIK, they are doing their job. I adjusted the E brake a few months back but found it just a little too snug, so I had rolled it back a hair, and now it's 'sluggish' (I was meaning to play with that but it started to get cold...). Bled it at that time, tho, and it went fine, so I'm thinking this is just due to air in the MC. It went down to VERY little fluid in there overnight the other night.

I've been following the procedure (RP, RD, FP, FD, LSPV) - even got the damn LSPV taken care of! I am finding NO leaks as of last night, but have to verify that fluid stayed up to where I filled it.

Yeah, self-bleeder....I'll have to drag the wife in and use the tube & jar method, maybe tomorrow. I'll try another MC bleed kit.....one I got had 1 fitting of every size....not the TWO I need for this type of MC!!! But I would think you need to do both fittings back into the reservoir, and move the truck to face downhill, maybe? Ya know how it is - feels like utter failure until that magic moment when suddenly it's fine....geez, these trucks can be tough....

Thanks again!

GM

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Try a vacuum bleeder, but I just crack the line at the MC under pressure and that usally does the trick.

blacksmithtech

@ the OP - I have "bench" bled while on the car - took the 2 lines off and covered the openings with 2 fingers and had the wife push the pedal slowly. Have a pan under all this as it will leak all over. Done when fluid comes out, had her hold pedal down and put lines back on. Bleed system as normal except I had removed the LSPV, so didn't do that.

GuitarMike

Thanks again, guys!
Took off the MC after work, took it to the actual BENCH, and held it lightly in a vice. Put a ouple of bent brake lines into the cylinder, and used a phillips head to crank it. BLOOP BLOOP out came the air for 2-3 strokes. Got it in just a few pumps, but gave it 15 more to be sure.
Re-installed the MC and the lines I had to disconnect to do this, of course leaving my bleed lines on until I was ready to put the brake lines back in.

Tomorrow (day off) I can get wifey to help me do a 'traditional bleed', using the fluid in a bottle with hose method.....I am crossing my fingers here!

And hoping I put the pads in correctly, LOLOL! (I'm only half joking, ha ha).

blacksmithtech

if you're feeling froggy get a couple of speed bleeders and you can do brake bleeding all by yourself for the life of your Yota.

GuitarMike

Ugh....all bled nicely, did it about 5 separate times. No more air.
Rear brakes, but no fronts! I bet I put the pads in wrong (reversed in/out side to side).

Think I might have to take her down my mechanic now to confirm that....sux getting this thing up on jack stands! (IFS)

GuitarMike

Note to others: the bleeders on the calipers go UP, not down. If they are DOWN, you have them on the wrong side of the truck!!

Don't get in a rush because it's zero out and getting late, and remove both calipers before going to pick up the new ones, either....or you might put them on the wrong side, because you are trying to get it done too fast.....oh man.

Know what I'm doing this weekend!

I won't make that mistake ever again, I can promise that!

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for teaching me another lesson in "assume". Glad you got it.

Zelephant

Just for future reference, you can bench bleed an MC on the truck. I've done it both ways, and so long as you have a partner, leaving it on the truck is easier. However, you will need a bleed kit for both the front and rear line ports (mine came with the MC). Maybe it was just me, but I thought the process was quick and easy!

GuitarMike

DONE!!!!!!!!!!!! 3 hours in snow/ice/rain (of course!)
Thanks for the pointers, guys!
I'm doing a write-up for the next noob.....