I've got the front wheel off and I'm looking at the caliper that needs to be removed to replace pads and rotors. The line that goes into the caliper is a metal line. Is it safe to remove the caliper with this metal line attached to it or should I remove the brake line and brake fluid to be safe? On my motorcycle the line going to the caliper is rubber so removing the caliper and bending the line is no big deal but I've never dealt with metal brake lines before. Advice would be greatly appreciated and any other tips for replacing pads and rotors. Cheers!

 

You can remove the caliper without taking the line off. Actually, there's LOTS of how to's on here, just fyi. Anywho, if you follow that line up from the caliper it goes to a bracket. There's a little clip there, just pull that out and it should free up the line enough that you can tie it up off the fender. JUST DONT OVERSTRESS IT, or you'll possibly crimp/break the line!!

 

Your still gonna have to bleed those brakes after replacing the brake pads, because likely you're gonna have to take that hard line off in order to pry the caliper open enough, to install the new pads.. and then pry some more to fit the new assembly back on the rotors. If you don't take the hard line off, it might be a lot harder (hyrdaulic pressure) to do this swap. Besides bleeding your break system (if not done in awhile) never hurts.

I think that hard line is a 10mm fitting, BUT I am not sure if you need the special tube wrench (what's the technical term guys??) to undo it. (I can't remember)

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...ont_end/rotor/

Clearly you don't have to go and remove those rotors unless they are warped

 

Just take the hard line loose and use a vacuum line cap. Saves your brake fluid, keeps you from making a mess and makes bleeding them simple when things are hooked back up as hardly any air gets into the system.

 

You can compress the pistons with the caliper still mounted. Caliper never has to come off unless rotors are coming off. Just remove the pins holding the pads in place. You can compress one pad/piston, slip in the new pad and then do the other one. Expect some fluid loss through the master cylinder cap unless you remove some fluid beforehand. Bleeding isn't necessary this way. I like to bleed the colored fluid out every time though. Good, clean fluid has a higher boiling point than old.

Be sure to pump that pedal before you start out driving it again. Pump it till your pedal comes back up. I prefer to pump it halfway several times until the pedal comes up to normal height. This can prevent you from hurting your old master cylinder. Also applies to foot bleeding with an older master cylinder.

 

C-CLAMP!

Best thing ever for bleeding brakes. Alot easier than just prying them. One of my best finds in our basement.

I always remove the caliper. Make sure to get good grease to lubricate the contact parts (not the pad surface!)

As far as bleeding another person who can hear makes a good buddy.

 

x2 on the c-clamp. Open up the caliper and install new pads.

No need to remove brake fitting.

If you do, I usually use vicegrips on the soft brake line, this prevents fluid loss.

And if you're doing rotors, I recomend buying a new set of wheel bearings and races.

 

I have never thought of that. I'll keep that in mind for next time.

 

You don't have to remove the brake lines from the calipers to replace the rotors. By removing the little clip you get enough slake to more the caliper out of the way.
When replacing the pads you should always, at least, turn the rotors and put on a non-directional pattern.



Fred

 

Actually no fluid will overflow from the master unless you have added fluid since the last brake pad change.
As the pads wear, over time, the fluid in the master will drop lower. As long as you don't top off the fluid (and there is no need to assuming that there are no leaks) when you compress the pistons in the caliper the fluid will only come back up to it's original height.
Now, if the brake fluid has absorbed a bunch of moisture since the last brake pad change, then it's volume will indeed have increased and it may want to overflow, however if that's the case then it's time to replace the brake fluid anyway.




And that's a big 10-4




Fred

 

Thanks for the tips everybody! I'll probably get to fixing it tomorrow after work.

 

not to bring back and oldie but i figured i would add to this instead of create a brand new post. I just did new pads and rotors and installed everything but now the new pads are dragging on the rotors. i can still turn the hub and everything no problem but they are definitely dragging and giving some extra resistance. did i do something wrong? what could be causing this? please help guys. thanks.

 

A very slight drag is ok...the new pads will wear to where they want to be. A BIG drag, on the other hand, might mean a problem! I'll leave it to the gurus to get you the final answer, I am a noob, too.