I'm at the junkyard and I can't get the cone retainer things out,should have brought pb

 

take a hammer and hit the studs a little just be careful not to damage the threads and also try tapping on the sides of the ALUMINUM" hub as well. Becareful not to dent that aluminum either.

 

i tried tapping but the studs were rusty,i said screw it and i ordered new mile marker hubs with the conversion kits from advance,im friends with the manager so hes giving me 20. off.going to cost 180. plus tax for both sides not worth my time to go back and salvage the 1's i found.

 

$180 is better spent on Aisin manual hubs IMO.

:wabbit2:

 

This goes with everything I've heard, read, and experienced since getting my first Yota in 1995.

 

you might as well stay with your ADD flanges if your gonna use aftermarket hubs. All are junk except MAYBE and I mean MAYBE the Warn heavy duties.

 

I honestly appreciate the suggestion but the only reason I ordered the mile markers is because I'm in a hurry to get it back on the road.I guess if I break them ill be sure to get aisin hubs the next time since its too late cause I already ordered the mile markers

 

If you end up putting hubs on it you may also want to replace the long side axle and housing tube on the diff with one from a non ADD truck. Although I have never really heard of any problems with the ADD not engaging you can eliminate the chance of a problem with the system leaving you stranded, less stuff to go wrong the better IMHO.

 

why are you switching to manual hub anyway strength?

 

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Good idea Wabbit. Here is one. Good links contained in this thread too.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...volved-127956/

 

Hey, there I am new to this forum and just bought a truck with auto locking hubs, I was wondering if the aisin manual hubs work well during the Winter and if they can fit on any wheels. Finally I would like to know what are the benefits of upgrading to manual locking hubs! Ty

 

They do wonderful in the snow, just lock them before getting in the truck. They should fit any wheel since they are a factory item. No messing around, they are locked or they are unlocked, no muss no fuss.

 

I have an '88 4x4 DLX XtraCab and need a new manual hub. I found one but the seller claims it to be a 27 spline that will fit '86-'95. Everything I'v read lurking here tells me I need 26 spline.

What do I need? How can I tell the difference?

Thanks!

 

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I've been trying to find out if there is a rebuild kit for said hub, and if not what happens if i need to replace something? I have searched the web and haven't found out anything that answers my question.

 

I believe the only parts you may need to be replaced are the gaskets. The rest just needs to be cleaned and regreased.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...b-rebuild.html

 

thanks, where do i find the gaskets at, the local parts store seemed to have no idea especially since the asked if it was 4wd

 

There really isn't anything to rebuild. Gaskets are a must, but everything else is not a wear item. Just keep track of your spring and little dent ball, they can easily be lost. Those are the most commom pieces to have to find replacements for.

 

Hi guys I'm just about to do my first mod and as I'm not very savvy in the vehicle repair department yet I thought I'd check in here first.

I have a 92 4Runner 3.0 V6. I bought it with a 3 inch body lift and right away had a lot of work done to ensure it was reliable for my long drive to Yellowknife. New timing belt etc for the engine and new shocks and coils.

Along with the shocks and coils which I did at T&S Suspension in Langley I got him to instal manual Aisin hubs. He ensured I got all good stuff and was very honest with me talking me out of a lift kit and that I should get an American truck with no rust if I really love my 4Runner after I figure out what kind of wheeling I want to do. He said he'd do the work but I really should figure out what I want to do with the truck first suggesting an SAS conversion if I was going to be serious. I'm still not sure on that but....

Anyway to my point.

Twice in the past six months my ADD system has crapped out on me. When I put it in 4H I can hear a click from a switch but the light does not come on and I stay in 2WD. From what I've been reading two switches need to engage for the light to come on. One in the transfer case and one in the actuator when the fork slides over.

I think I get the principle of it all but have some questions. When I eliminate the actuator as a future cause of hassle what exactly happens? I understand that I slde the fork over and weld or clamp it but does this mean that everything up front is till moving when in 2WD? If I leave my hubs locked will power still be heading to my front wheels? I'm concerned that there is a potential big downside to this elimination and want to be sure before I go in there with a clamp and vacuume caps.

Is there anything I should watch out for when doing this job? Also is this clamp I just bought good for the job?




I'm into this truck enough now that I don't ever want to sell it and instead do a complete tear down and rebuild with many of the options I've read about in here when I've been lurking.

I figure if I'm going to keep going I should take it apart and get rid of all the rust and clean up the frame and inspect it but that's for later.


Thanks in advance.