I just put in a set of ASIAN manual hubs on my 94 runner. went out to give them a test. and when locked 4WD works fine (front engages) but when i unlock the hubs they still seem to be locked as I can put it back into 4wd drive and the front will lock back in..
I bought them used, cleaned and regressed lightly. I tested after rebuild by Inserting the cover in the body and verify that the inner hub will turn smoothly, but i noticed after i would lock and then unlock the inner hub they both would not spin freely until i taped or rocked them back and froth... the springs seemed Strong, I didn't notice any chips on the inner hub body or any other parts.

 

if you have converted from ADD one side's axle shaft is still gonna stay engaged to the diff. Spinning the CV's by hand isn't gonna tell you like an OEM manual hub truck would. In that case you have to put the tire in the air and spin that to see if the cv's are spinning. I cannot say for certain which side still stays engaged, but I wanna say the passenger side.

9/10 times if the hubs don't disengage it's because the dial/spring is not installed correctly or too much grease was used. It's somewhat hard to explain. There is a few hub rebuild threads on here for you to take a look at though which explains it in detail.

 

Ditto on the spring I did this manual hub swap too and I got some Aisin hubs off E-Bay that were a basket case that I had to put together. But you should be able to test them pretty good before you put them on the rig to make sure they engage and disengage properly.

 

I'm still running the add system. as for grease i did a light coat as i have read on some hub rebuild threads, but i will double check the grease job and look at the big spring to see that it is installed correctly. also I'm gonna put in the air today and test the hubs to see witch or any CV spins. the hubs came off an 86 ifs runner...thanks again guys for the info and mental help....

 

got the runner up in the air and both CV would not spin freely. I took the hubs back apart and noticed the tension spring on the follower prawl was not on correct. the spring was not under the taps to pull back the clutch wen disengaged. so a simple mistake and going to fast. now they are good to go. i appreciate the quick ideas from the people on this forum, once again. thanks

 

I'm having a strange issue, I got a set of Aisin Hubs on ebay. They were a little banged up but didn't look too bad. I rebuilt them and got new gaskets from Toyota and O rings. They still seem to be leaking from where the hub body meets the axle/hub? The oil is leaking from the bottom not from where the dial selector is. I'm stumped as to what to do. Should I send them back saying they aren't working to the seller since I've tried using the factory gaskets. I torqued them all to spec as many online guides have. Thanks in advance.

Ernest

 

How is there oil in the hub? There should be no oil whatsoever held back from the locking hubs.

 

sorry I should've been more clear. It appears that some of the old grease that has less viscosity than new grease is coming off through the hub. Its creating streaks of black grease almost like oil coming from the inside of the wheel to the outside. I had the ADD flange before but it wasn't leaking.

 

put a thin coat of rtv when putting them on. did you use the gasket between the lock and the wheel hub?

 

What's ATV? and Yes I used the circular looking gasket with about 12 holes in it, still can't figure out why its leaking. I thought it I properly torque it and use the right gaskets, it should be water tight?

Ernest

 

I think he mention RTV its a gasket maker and can get it from auto part stores

 

So Permatex Ultra Black on both side of the gasket, a small bead around all the holes all the way around should work?

 

I didn't use any on mine and reused the old gaskets And mine don't leak. Maybe I got lucky though.

 

That's what I would do

 

is it normal for these things to leak? my drivers side has no signs of leaking at all

 

If both mating surfaces are clean and still true (flat) you can get away with paper gaskets only. I prefer using only paper gaskets when I can get away with it because I'll know no drops of sealant will be oozing into the inside and breaking free to float around. It's probably just a paranoia thing, though. If either surface seems damaged, I'd suggest using a thin coat of sealant on either side of the gasket.
If you know there's grease in there that's lost viscosity I'd strongly suggest cleaning out and repacking all your bearings.

Edit: make sure you didn't damage the cone washers too much during the hub swap. If they're deformed or have burs on them from when you took them out you might have to shave them down back to being round so they can seat properly. I butchered a pair of mine when I did my hubs last, and toyota wanted 6 bucks a piece for them. Still makes me cringe.

 

thx wabbit, that was my first impression as well which is why I had said there should be no gear oil in that hub. But.... is it possible his rear seal is also leaking water into the hub causing his grease to look like gear oil?

 

if it had flanges on before then more than likely its an IFS truck and no gear oil can get in there anyways. not sure what would be leaking out of there but i agree that should be cleaned and repacked with fresh grease. shouldnt need rtv but a thin coat wont hurt.

 

You know what, now that I think about it, your right. Absolutely no gear oil anywhere near an IFS steering knuckle.

Wabbit in his SFA/SAS mode again. lol.

 

Read past the "or" ya dipsquat.

:wabbit2: