Hey I just installed a set of aisin manual hubs on my 90 runner. When I put it in the free position the right side has this clunking/ratcheting type of noise. But when I turn it to lock the noise is non-existent. What did I do wrong? I searched and only found people having issues with too much grease

 

does the hub turn hard from lock to free or lock to free ? i had to rebuild mine on my 91 one of the springs inside got put on wrong and the hub was always locked in even when on the free mark

 

It doesn't take a ton of effort for me to turn the hub, no

 

Too much grease maybe? Its almost sounds like the hub is halfway locked when it should be unlocked. Did you rebuild them before you installed them? Do your CV's spin when your tire is spinning and the hubs are unlocked?

 

Heres a nice link I found that shows you how to rebuild them if you didnt before. Might as well do them both while your at it

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...b-rebuild.html

 

When you put it in did you pinch a tiny metal tab?

 

Bought a set for my truck a while back... finally started the rebuild today, and noticed the have different parts..

Pic on the left is the parts in question.
Pic on the right shows where the go in they assembly.

Has anyone seen this before? Do I need a new hub now?

 

Removed

 

sorry.. I don't a pic at the moment.. they're both dismantled. I'll try to get one tomorrow.
But after a thorough inspection, I'm 99% sure the other parts are all the same. That was the only different part, and it seems to fit in there fine. It was the first one I pulled apart and I didn't think anything of it until I pull the second one apart.
Think I should just assemble it and see if it works?

 

Also.. and this may be a dumb question... but that grade are the bolts that hold the cover on? The ones with a 7 on the head... I've searched online, but I'm not having any luck...

 

Never tried to use that different part before but it could work, don't know.

They are non grade as they torque to like 11 ft-lbs.

:wabbit2:

 

Cool. Thanks for all the info.
I painted and assembled them today and everything went together perfect. That different part fits just as snug as the toyota part, and seems just fine.
I didn't like the black/red... so I went with the LC look in black/gold.

 

Got them bolted on the truck and even painted the rear center caps to match..

Thanks for the help Wabbit! I'll let you know if that oddball part gives me any grief, but I don't think it will...

 

Hi,

Going to start the front IFS ARB/regear install this WE.

The truck has ADD originally and has been flawless. The question is should I go with manual hubs? ...or CAN I go w/manual hubs? Is there a strong benefit to this?

any input welcome except for "why not SAS" -IFS has been fine for me!

Thanks.

 

manual hubs = less wear and tear on the cv's especially if you lift the truck as well a slight improvement in gas mileage from less resistance from moving all that mass and friction. It is extremely easy to switch them out...about half an hour per side and really no special tools needed. There is a good right up about it here on yotatech if you search it.

 

if you like shift on the fly, keep the ADD. if you dont mind getting out, get manual hubs... personal preference. though, i should add. I did the manual hub swap and my hubs make a clicking noise ( almost like theres a card stuck in a bike's spokes ) not sure what it is...

 

So, I don't have to make a decision now on the hubs? I thought there would be shafts/parts to the ADD IFS I would have to change while it was out...

Thanks.

 

no they just replece the drive flanges. nice thing is you can leave the hubs locked and it will function like ADD does

 

^^^ exactly. CV joints, and all other drivetrain related items still are the same. the only time they change is when you get into newer vehicles.

 

go with the hubs.