Alternator Wire to Positive Terminal
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Alternator Wire to Positive Terminal
Hello,
I am trying to finish up my "big 3" wire upgrade, I hate dimming lights because of the bass. All that is left is the alternator wire to battery. I tried going straight to the fuse box, but I don't want to unscrew the pre-existing wire in fear of not being able to fit the new wire. So here is my question: can I just attach another wire (8 gauge like stock) to the alternator and run it straight to the battery? With an in-line fuse of course. I've looked at other threads within Yotatech, I just want some assurance! Thanks. 1988 toyota 4runner, 22RE, 4x4.
I am trying to finish up my "big 3" wire upgrade, I hate dimming lights because of the bass. All that is left is the alternator wire to battery. I tried going straight to the fuse box, but I don't want to unscrew the pre-existing wire in fear of not being able to fit the new wire. So here is my question: can I just attach another wire (8 gauge like stock) to the alternator and run it straight to the battery? With an in-line fuse of course. I've looked at other threads within Yotatech, I just want some assurance! Thanks. 1988 toyota 4runner, 22RE, 4x4.
#2
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Shouldn't be a problem The wire from the Alternator goes to the 80Amp fuse link and then straight to the battery from there.
There are a few (2) splices to feed other circuits but the new wire doesn't need to join those.
I unwrapped my harness to replace the wire on my 86 and found some corrosion that was away from the connectors where i would of imagined it would only be at. There was areas of Green corrosion 3 feet away from any kind of connector.
Best route is to replace the stock wire with 6 Gauge and refresh the splices with fresh wire if ya got the time.
There are a few (2) splices to feed other circuits but the new wire doesn't need to join those.
I unwrapped my harness to replace the wire on my 86 and found some corrosion that was away from the connectors where i would of imagined it would only be at. There was areas of Green corrosion 3 feet away from any kind of connector.
Best route is to replace the stock wire with 6 Gauge and refresh the splices with fresh wire if ya got the time.
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Thanks, maybe I will do that in the future but I need to get my runner back on the road (replacing the radiator currently). I started to take apart the wiring, but then back-tracked as it seemed to time consuming. But how do you get the 8ga wire out of the fuse box? By turning the screw? Will I be able to put new wire there in the future?
#4
Upgrading the big 3 may not be enough to prevent dimming of lights. If youre talking about the headlights, the circuit is not the best (see my signature). Wire size needs to be upgraded, and circuit modded OR you can use an after-market H4 conversion harness.
No. There's a good reason for that network of FLs and fuses. What you're talking about is a shortcut, something we curse previous owners about. We don't want to be like them.
Yes, it is simple to unscrew where that wire connects to. The fuse box is plastic. If it does not flex enough you should be able to enlarge an opening. Better to modify plastic than modify wiring.
... can I just attach another wire (8 gauge like stock) to the alternator and run it straight to the battery?
Yes, it is simple to unscrew where that wire connects to. The fuse box is plastic. If it does not flex enough you should be able to enlarge an opening. Better to modify plastic than modify wiring.
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I ended up running another 8 ga. wire from alternator to +terminal. Inline fuse about 1 foot from battery. Put split-loom around it and electrical tape around that, and ran it directly under the stock wiring to the other side of the bay where the battery is located! All ground wires upgraded to 4ga wire, and new radiator, hoses and thermostat in! Thanks for all the input.
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