As for the welding part I would tack weld every thing and put the weight of the truck on it. Then level the front and rear axle. Then check the shackle angle and make sure the springs are parallel. Then if it all looks good fully weld it.
My shackle angle is at 45deg, but some people like it a little more up and down like 25deg. I think 45deg is a little softer ride and 25deg is a little stiffer.
Just make sure that the jack stands are touching the frame. That way if something lets go it won't fall on you. It is also not a bad idea to have a chunk of log under there too, just in case the jack stands don't catch it.

 

thanks! ok so i should grab the jig just to be safe? it looks so simple to just get strait and centered than weld it but if the jig will realy help then im all for it now im a little confused about how the hole doesnt go strait through the frame and this whole angle thing lol? seems weird ro me but if you could clarify it that would be awesome!

i like how the f150's flex, could i cut off my old hangers and re mount them and drill new holes for the shakles? the 51" would be easy but if it wont flex much than that could be a problem but on another note i would like less body roll as this is my DD so... im not sure haha.

oyah were you mount the front shackles is is right under that body mount right? would the body mont get in the way if you flexed hard on a side?

 

you can trim the bodymount

 

Here is the link to the jig http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspens...alignment-jigs
Here is a picture of the jig

The hole does go threw the frame it just goes threw at an angle as you can see in the picture.
With leaf springs it always seems to be a give and take with on road manners and off road performance.
If you went with the f150s I would make new hangers. You could always run a sway bar on the rear which would help with body roll. But you would want to remove it when off road, or make a quick disconnect sway bar.
As for the body mount people cut it or make/buy a boomerang shackle. Here is a picture of the ones I have.

 

There are some pics of the whole jig thing we did with mine here. Scroll down to post #80.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f66/...72/index4.html

 

that helps alot! thanks guys .

i think im going to go with the f150's if i can find some, oyah might be a stupid question but i need 4x4 f150 springs right? 2wd's are too low?

oyah another question, the stock leaf mounts are fine right? i see many guys moving them and what not, just wondering what thats all about?

and i have seen some guys running 3" lift kits and 31"s and it looks like a joke haha i might need some 33"s before i sas

 

Now thats not nice I run 32's with 4" suspension and 2" body. Ok so with 6" it looks a bit like a micro machine but it saves money not wearing out my mtrs.

From what I have read so far the 2x4 f150s work best Post #6 in http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...t=f150+springs
Here is a page that more links about f150 swap http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=700418
Also I think you will have to make/weld new hangers for the f150s. Your rear springs are 51" and the f150s are 57"

 

haha whokrz im not making fun of you but really 3"s of lift would look kinda wack with 31"s hah.

nice threads so it looks like i need 2wd springs oyah and i figured i would need to move the hanger up and shakles haha.

but my real question was on the front axle am i going to have to move the spring perches? i have seen people move them across the axle but i just wanted to make sure i wouldnt have too?

thanks

 

The spring perches on your front and rear axle should stay they same. If you had a 4runner you would have to do spring perches on the rear axle because 1990+ they were coil sprung in the rear. They also have a big 4link mess that is a pain to cut out. But you have a pickup so you have it made in that regard.

Its not to bad on the 31s, but the 37s look better.


What really looked weird is when I had to drive 30 miles like this.

 

ok cool thanks

hahahaha driving on a rim haha right on wholrz

if i could keep my truck as low as possible until i get some bigger meats that would be the best. is there anyway i can keep it low until then?

i am going to try and trade or sell my dick cepeck's for some 33" super swampers if i can and just run my 4.10's until i have money for gears and 36"s . im guessing my sfa has 4.10's im pretty sure they can only be 4.10's but yeah i dont know for sure yet.

thanks toyota95 i have seen wabit around and im sure he will poke his head in here at some time, and if i realy feal stuck i will give him a call

 

When I first did my sas I had about 3" of suspension lift, the problem I had was when I got up travel on the passenger front the drag link would hit the frame.

I could notch my frame to clear, but I did not want to risk stress cracks as it is my daily driver. So I had to make the bump stops longer, but then driving on the road I only had 3/4" up travel making for a ruff ride. Which lead to another inch of lift, 1 3/4" up travel. Hopefully this provides some insight on how low you can make a sas.

 

The following is not really related to your current sas but may be useful as you continue to build and upgrade your truck.

In post #55 I posted info and pictures about the 8.4 tacoma differential. Recently I found something that should work much better and cost much less. Here is a link to my new plans http://www.gentryoffroad.com/php/tru...nner/phaseIII/ just thought you might want to read it before gearing and locking mini truck axles.

Keeping the center of gravity low is nice, for those undesirable situations that these trucks often find them selves in. I know in post #5 you said that you didn't want a body. I just wanted you to know your options and the benefits before you go with all suspension lift to clear 36" tires.

Stock


Body, transmission and gas tank lift.

This nicely tucks everything up inside the frame rails. This makes it less likely for the truck to get hung up and get damaged. It also makes the center of gravity lower because the engine and frame never got raised the 2". These pictures are from http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ft/index.shtml he gives lots of information. Also having access to the shop would make it very cheap if they have a lathe.

 

good information whokrz .

fj axles sound sweet but im not sure i have the money or time for all that rightnow? tuff decisions here .

my new idea is 4" lift , 33" super swampers, and keep ti low and cut. from what im seeing is after you 36" and bigger stock yota axles just cant take it so 33"s or even the 34" SS TSL's or what ever that size is between 33" and 36" SS's would work nicely with 4" lift, cut a little and some longs up front, and locked. i realy want this ifs gone, i would have bought a 85 and below but i love the body and grill of the 89 to 95 pickups haha so... yeah sas

i wish that drag link didnt get all messed up or it would be fine. oyah and i alredy have a 85 front axle so it would make sence to use it right?

 

The info was mainly for when you have money and are looking into bigger tires and gears.
They toyota axles actually do well with 36" tires if you are a little easy on them. I have ran 37" tires for 2 years with stock birfs. I haven't broken one yet but with stock birfs it is only a matter of time. With longfields in the front it is pretty rare to break and people run 40" tires on them. In the back it is also pretty rare to break but with the semi floater if anything breaks you are in a bad way. In my opinion the rear axle as a whole is the weak link on a built toyota. Also when you have money for tires and gears, building a FJ80 rear should be very comparable in price to a mini axle with a elocker or arb. There have only been a few built and the information is very limited on them. I will start mine in about a year and plan on taking lots of pictures and posting information.

Here are a few links that should get you started when you start to build parts for your sas.
Low lift sas http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=674078&page=3
Front hanger specs http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=321699
Official PBB Toyota Bible/FAQ http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780

 

Okay here is a couple pictures of mine..

It is a trail-gear 4" kit.. Installed it in mid jan of 2009..

With 33's.

with 36"s


and with 40"s



Not a ton of up travel, because i am running bump stops, and because of that they BARELY rub under full stuff...


For comparason.. My 4runner on 40" iroks with the 4" tg kit and my buddys with some 37" toyos with a 5" all pro set i believe.

 

oyah im going to look into that FJ80 axle when i up size, and would love a rear e locker hehe. thanks im going to check those links .

haha 904 i have been watching your build for a long time and on 33"s it looks sick, on 36"s it looks sick, and on 40"s just awesome lol. though i think my limit will be 36"s haha big for a std cab like mine.

i just need get some money so i can get to rebuilding my sfa and work away at this until i have everything including bigger tires since i am not going to run 31"s sas'd haha. i hope i can get it going soon, ifs is so annoying, i just want it gone and out of my head.

 

ok so about the original point of this thread for one second here, it seems to me there are maybe a hand full of guys running all-pro on YT, and i never got any good advice if paying extra for all-pro is worth it? now i know all about TG and 904 runner you were saying on your build up thread that u regret telling people to go TG because of tie rod ends and little crap, but if those things were replaced with better parts would the rest of the TG ifs eliminator kit be worth the savings? now i am only thinking of a kit again because it might be a better route for me at this time so what's your thoughts? i would still go f150's out back but use the TG front kit, and i think if i get the HD leafs for the front it wont sag too bad as i have a 22re and no winch/bumper to add weight and crap out the leafs right? anyways i need opinions on this deal. oyah and $400 for front and back 5.29 gears not installed, is that a decent deal, if so what whould be my best bet at getting those gears in my 3rd's or what? thanks guys and i hope some more of you will post here

 

I have a marlin 5in kit and I clear 37s pretty good, need to do a little more fender trimming, but I havent hammered my pinch weld in either, I took the inner fenders out and it seemed to help quite a bit with the rubbing issue.

My future plans are to run 39.5s and drop the lift 2inches for a lower center of gravity. Then comes tubbing the firewall!!! IMHO is is really tall, though I never feel unstable in it (probably 13in wide tires on rims with 2in of backspacing, tires stick out a lot). But she does like to get tippy on off camber drops, gets on 3 wheels a lot!!

 

haha cool! yeah i like your yota but i wouldnt go so high haha i have changed my mind and am all for low and cut . 2" back spacing hole crap hahaha you don't daily drive that beast do you? i have to be able to DD my rig until i can afford a 90 double cab hilux haha. what kind of money did you spend on your and im just talking up and driving?

 

you drove on your rims for 30 miles?? Uh?