so what kit did you decide on?

 

They are only 35s with 5" springs + 3" of body... it is wayyyy too tall! Take my word, dont go anywhere that tall or else you might learn the hard way......


I would reccomend takin off that stinkin body lift and get a set of 5" springs. It would still be plenty tall for 35s.

 

I would like to tuck my transfercase up for clearance so im thinkin little lift and trimmage! and I wont be able to afford a rear leaf conversion so im leaving coils in the rear next summer, and I cant find to manny coil lifts to match a 5" up front!

 

i hear ya, you would have more than enough with 3" tg's.

 

im still saving for the kits and what not haha. alot of money to do this swap. i think im going with all-pro but i might still go with rears and my own hanger. im thinking 3"s of lift a bit of trimming and some 35's. i think that height and tire will work good with my short wheelbase.

 

yeah man, sounds like a plan!

 

hey what do you guys think about if i rebuilt my sfa, got some 48" 2nd gen leafs, made my own hanger and shakles, shock mounts and sas'd this thing for under $800? i would try and keep it about the same as it is now because i only have 31"s and 4.10 gears rightnow. i know allot of you are going to say why dont you just leave it ifs if your not lifting it and my reason is that my ifs is pissing me off and i want to get rid of it so bad. my ifs wont stop leaning to the right and i have torqued the T bars and it kepps drooping back? anyways what do you guys think? oyah then when it comes time to lift it i just need leafs, high steer and gears

 

You have the wrong steering box to run the stock steering on a mini truck axle. The stock steering on a FJ60 may work as it has a type of crossover steering, but you already have your axle.
With using high steer you will need 3" of lift. If you have no lift you will need to modify your frame on the passenger side to clear the drag link when you get up travel on that side. It may also hit the oil pan. I started with 2.5" of lift and had the drag link hit the frame.
If you have the scrap steel laying around then I would consider making all the brackets, but if you have to buy the metal you may want to just buy the bracket because the cost will be similar and a lot less work.

 

sweet thanks whokrz i was wondering about the steering and the diff hitting the oil pan and what not. if i got around 3" of lift then my 31"s would be too small for the lift. well i can get a good deal if not free metal from school and know i can make the hanger and shackles but im not sure about the high steer, i dont know if i can make all that? if i could sell my good 31"s and get some 33" super swampers than i would do that but then i need gears . so what your saying is i cant run almost no lift and that i will have to go atleast 3" lift and i will need high steer?

 

If the metal is really cheap I would make all the brackets. It will take some time to make them all, but that should keep you out of trouble for a few weeks
Things you will need and can't really make
marlin hi-steer is $339 (on sale now)
bilstien shocks are $75 each so $300 for all four, these are spendy but very nice.
FJ60 rotors $39
wheel spacers $79
brake lines $85
8 large bushings $16 Use marlins TGs have to large of a out side diameter.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspens...-bushing-large
6 18mm greasable bolts $7 $42
6 stover nuts $2 $12
4 shackle bushings $2 $8

2 @ 48" toyota rears
1 @ S-10 or something to give arch to lift the rear
possibly a rebuild kit for the front axle
This is $920 w/out tax plus springs and maybe a rebuild kit. Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.

Also 3" of lift does not look bad with 31" tires in my opinion. 33s are nicer and you can run them with 4.10 gears it is not a huge loss in power.

 

If you are tryin to go cheap, dont run wheel spacers, use ifs hubs or nothing
trailgear's highsteer is $300 every day
Bilstiens are nice, but not going with the budget.... you can det shocks for under 100 bucks easy, and they would work ok.
You can use the stock solid axle rotors and calipers if you dont have the money for the vented rotors....
And i would go ahead and rebuild the front axle, but its not a must....

What terrain will you be in?

 

wow thanks alot whokrz. i can make everything at school for like nothing and will have to phone some guys here for some leafs but i think i can do this. but dont expect me to have this done right away, im just gonna rebuild my axle and make the parts slowly and once i have all that i will get to cutting haha. im probs gonna go with some cheap shocks as i am going to go a little higher once i have money for 36"s aww yeah so sheap shocks will be ok. i do have one question though? what can i do about my brakes, my sfa disks are rusty as hell but i think i can get them turned, can i use my ifs discs on the sfa? my sfa has calipers but they look all rusty and i think they are crap so what are my options here, should i just get some fj60 rotors or what?
appreciate all the help

 

I went with ifs calipers, fj60 rotors and wheel spacers. It all bolts on very nicely, you only have to trim the backing plate that covers the caliper a little. As runnerboy mentioned there is a way to use the ifs hub and brakes. I just didn't happen to go that route. It seems a little cobbled together in my opinion, but some really like it. Here is a few links to get you started
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=7449.0
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...light=Kamirtoy
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...spacers-59071/

 

ok im going to talk to my friend who might have some rotors and im gonna run spacers. thanks for the links im going to check em out.

 

alright i got an idea of what i have too do now and im going to just run stock hubs, fj60 rotors and wheels spacers. so just to clarifly all this i just get some fj60 rotors bolt them on along with the spacers and i should be good to go right? only thing im not 100% sure on is what you were talking about with trimming the backing plate? if you could find me a pic of what your are talking about that would be awesome! oyah by the way i wanted to run 48" rears because i didnt like how the 51" how you have to make the hanger stick out, so if i run 48"s can i make the hanger flush like the regular sas kits? thanks!

 

These are my IFS ones, but you get the idea. You have to trim the SA ones to allow the IFS calipers to fit. You could actually trim them down to just a ring similar to the backing plate eliminators linked below. I don't really see the point of those eliminators though. My SA came with plates that were beat to crap. I trimmed off nearly everything, leaving just enough to give it some structural integrity and to allow the mounting point for the brake line to remain.


http://www.trail-gear.com/backing-plate-elim.html

 

haha thanks man^^^ i was thinking thats what you guys were talking about hah. yeah i was thinking i would just cut them down too?? like why not lol.

this whole sas is looking more likely every second haha i hope i can do this and actually get it done and working for all you guys, im going to try realy hard to do this sas and deliver a nice cheap sas to YT.

 

Yes with the 48" rear the hanger sits flush or close to it. Basically where the hanger sits and the arch of the springs is what adjusts the shackle angle. Also these springs seem to flex just as well as the 51" rears.
On my backing plate I left what I could to have something to mount my brakes to. Also this protect the rotors from fluids just in case you have a bad leak and it shot that way. I would imagine the brakes would not work well if the pad/rotor was covered in a lubricant.

 

ok awesome whokrz! now when i mount the hanger and shackles what the best way to do it and find out were you need to torch the hole in the frame and weld the round stock for the shakle"s? should i just tack the hanger on and kinda guess were the shackle should be?

yeah good point on the backing plate, but i just looked at my axle today and my shields look like crap and are all rusty. i can get you a pic of my axle too.

oyah another leaf question. if i find s10 leafs you were saying just use the arch and some of my 51" springs right? i would have to move my mounts and shakles then right? or is there a way i can stay away from making new mounts?

thanks you have been lots of help!

 

Marlin or trail gear sells a jig for the placement, I would recommend buying them because they are cheap and you will know it is in the correct spot. The hole goes threw at an angle and not at 90deg, so that the tube is parallel to the front hanger. I used a hole saw and a drill when I did mine. It takes a while to do that way, but it also gives you time to adjust angle and get the hole in the right spot. I'm not very good with a torch so the hole saw was ideal for me.

Most any spring that has arch should work to get lift out of the 51" rears that are back there now. Basically the idea was to add leafs to the rear pack to raise it so that it will match the front. If you wanted to keep the 51" springs in the rear I would try a 6" eye to eye shackle, add a few leafs and see what happens. This would increase on road stability but limit flex, compared to a s10 or f150 pack. I have 51" springs in the rear which helps with all the weight I carry for work. Here is a picture of my rear flexing, and I would guess that with a pickup the flex would be slightly less because there is less weight over the axle.


However the f150 springs flex very nicely and may be worth making spring hangers, shackle hangers, shackle plates. The main cost would be bolts, nuts and bushings which are all pretty cheap. The f150 springs and the s10 will make the body roll on the road worse. I doubt it would be that bad in a pickup unless you carry lots of weight in the back. Here is a picture of f150 spring flexing

As you can see there is a big difference in wheel travel.