is cutting the fenders not part of a possible solution?

 

well no i have never cut fenders before and would kinda like to keep the outer look the same. but i can learn and will do so to make er work haha.

 

thanks man!



thanks bud! yea the only way for me to make it sit lower is to get smaller tires lol. it still rubs just barely at full stuff / lock. the irocks wear better than my boggers lol. and coming from a set of boggers(best mud tire ever), the irocks actually do better in the mud than any other tire (besides a bogger) that ive seen or tried. they do way better than a reg tsl in the mud also, becouse a irock is a directional and it is also cupped.

 

Haha yeah well in that case keep them tires! any smaller of a tire and it would be too small. I hear iroks are realy good but wear fast and personaly i dont like the look of them. when i see a TSL super swamper i die haha i love the chunky tractor tire look and from what i hear they last a while. IDK though i can get 36 Iroks bias for 310 a tire here in B.C. and im sure i could get a longer lasting 35" bias TSL for way less. Over all how did you like TSL's TOYOTA 1?

 

you mean swampers? tsl just means (three stage lug), which all three (swamper, bogger, and the irock) have. ime they all have good and bad sides to them. as far as traction in the mud goes, bogger takes the cake, irok's come in 2nd, and swampers 3rd. out of the 3 id say swampers wear better, but not by much.

for an all around tire, (mud, snow, rock,etc) i would say that iroks out perform others.

 

haha sorry about that i mean the super swamper TSL. So you realy think ill be better of with the iroks?

 

i don't know if you would be, but i am

all three perform good, you should be happy with either of them.

be sure to post some pics when you get the new rubber!

 

for sure dude. Cant wait to get my SAS done and riding on some big tires already so tired of my 31's haha.

 

I have used nearly 100% trailgear products when building my truck and i have been very satisfied! The sas kit is all there and super easy and CHEAP! I pulled my truck in the shop friday night, and it came out of the shop early sunday afternoon ready to drive to school. (i was only 17) But if i can give you some advice, PLEASE dont make the mistake i did and get it too high!! KEEP IT LOW AND CUT! here is an example of what is too tall!


or this could happen...

 

dont you hate that gravity thing

 

haha. shut it

 

Rears up front is not really one of those just bolt it on and it is right things. Most people end up building the spring pack a few times before they have it where they want it. Most people do it because it is cheap or they just like to tinker with stuff.

.......................and yes it is normal to miss the yota

 

the way i see it is that trail gear is ok for most of there stuff and i will prob buy some things over the years from them. but i have heard of the springs saging alot and tierod ends wearing out within the first month. so i dont mind spending a little extra for a kit that is better quality. as far as what my plan is now im going with 4" allpro front kit, 5" rear kit, 5.29's, 35" super swampers, rear detroit locker. then armor and some engine hop ups because my 22re s the dog all day long lol

 

#1, All-Pro makes a good kit. Just want that to be clear before you read everything else I am going to say.

FWIW, I have sold at least 100 Trail-Gear SAS/rear kits around the country and have installed at least 25. To date, I have had to warranty only one spring due to sagging. In the spring's defense, the rig was used as a trailer queen and wheeled 1-2 per week HARD. TG replaced the spring because I asked them to free of charge.

Most people who complain about their springs aren't running bump stops, or set them up where the spring is allowed to invert. Not just TG springs, but any spring. All-Pro and Marlin included.

I can tell you that when I worked at All-Pro, I used to field calls at least 1-2 per week about sagging springs or the truck not sitting level. I have not had that issue with TG's springs. Some others may have had that issue though, but I haven't. Marlin's springs are the same as All-Pro's. Marlin picks up his springs from All-Pro. Both built by Betts Spring, and are assembled in Indonesia, or was it India(I can't remember). "USA" built springs is a loose term. Just because they are made by a "USA" spring builder doesn't mean they are built in the USA. Every spring that would come in on a pallet would have a sticker that said made in Indonesia on it. They were razor bladed off before they left the shop. Marlin just paints his own part # on the spring after he picks them up. Keep in mind it has been three years since I worked for All-Pro, but that is how it was done when I was there. Still these springs are GOOD springs.

However, the nature of the beast is that over time leaf springs settle and sag out. Its what they do in an SOA application when they are wheeled. Just plan on replacing springs every 3-4 years as part of your general upgrade maintenance.

I honestly have no issues with All-Pro or Marlin. They are both good products, but I get so tired of people bashing TG when they don't know the whole story, or are misinformed. Take it for what its worth. Trail-Gear make a GOOD product with GOOD springs. I have run everything they make on two of my personal rigs with ZERO issues at all.

Having installed several of all three kits, and run them on my own rigs, I can say that IMO, Trail-Gear's kit is the best. It has nothing to do with me being a dealer. Its from my experience with all three kits that I make that call.

These were my rigs:


Area BFE in Moab running the entrance to Upper Helldorardo:


My old 22RE 88'


My All-Pro 88' when I worked there:

 

A little off the topic but it is good information to know before you spend a lot of money.
As for auto lockers read this to make sure you really want one http://www.gentryoffroad.com/php/gen...view/lockrite/

Seeing how you are planing to lock and gear the rear differential you may want to look into a non trd tacoma axle with a 8.4 differential for the rear.
On the 4cyl and V6 rear axles the differential is about as strong as the shafts. The bad thing about this is that the geared/locked differential is expensive and the shafts are cheap. The 8.4 differential has a much better chance to survive if something is going to break. The tacoma axle is a little wider than a ifs axle but it is not very noticeable and the extra width helps with stability. These axles can be picked up pretty cheap in junk yards and on craigslist. You can also sell your current rear axle to offset the cost.

From http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/
4cyl (This is the differential you have)

- Ten 10mm ring gear bolts
- 27 spline pinion
- 2-pinion carrier (case)

V6 (The common upgrade)

- Stronger housing than the 4cyl diff
- Larger carrier bearings than the 4cyl diff
- 30 spline axles
- 27 spline pinion (pre-'96)
- Ten 10mm ring gear bolts
- 8mm axle housing studs with 12mm nuts
- 4-pinion carrier (case)

8.4 tacoma

- Carrier bearing truss and newer housing adds significant strength over V6 and 4cyl diffs
- Uses V6 carrier bearings, larger pinion bearings
- Uses shims for backlash adjustment instead of threaded adjusters
- Twelve 12mm Ring gear bolts
- 10mm axle housing studs with 14mm nuts
- 30 splilne axles
- 30 spline pinion

Above you can see that the 8.4 has a stronger housing, larger bearings, larger pinion, more and larger ring gear bolts, larger housing studs/nuts, and trusses to stop deflection between the pinion and ring gear.

I currently have a V6, 5.29, lock-rite.
When I have money I will upgrade to a 8.4, 5.29, arb, fror full floating kit.
This will have better road manners, greatly increase strength, give me disk brakes in the rear and have the rear full floating so if something does breaks I can still drive on it and not have my tire fall off.
After that I will get longfields for the front because a spare birf is easy to carry and the front is already full floating.

 

yah i hear you ScottyC but im just not sure. all i hear is TG sucks over and over again. but never hear anything bad about marlin and allpro? maybe im not talking to the right people but seems no matter were i go its stay away from TG. your rigs look nice and you prob know more than most guys who sas their trucks, and you prob know how to set it up realy well. maybe thats why you have had succes with TG? IDK what kit to go with yet, lately im thinking of selling my 31"s buying 33's, making BJ spacers and puting a detoit in the back for now.

 

cool stuff Whokrz didnt realy know about the 8.4 but knew the V6 was stronger than mine. just wondering since i have a 22re and prob going to run 33's or 35's with a detroit, do you think it will hold up to avrage wheeling? i think with the stuff i do that my stock 4cyl diff will hold up. cuz my 22re putts along without stressing the diff too bad i would think?

 

The 4cyl and V6 both hold up well. I have run a V6 differential with 37s for 2 years and have not had any issues. I am very easy on the gas but because I normally wheel alone it is always in the back of my mind. It is a bad feeling when the truck starts to jump around a little on a obstacle and you can't get off the gas fast enough.

I mainly brought the 8.4 up because it costs about the same to build as a ifs rear but you gain strength which is nice especially for 35s or 37s

 

yah i hear you. i think i will look into that later on. prob when i break my diff haha.

 

hey RUNNERBOYY what size KM2's and what TG leafs up front? I am saving for a TG kit and have 35" KM2's and was thinking of a 3" or 4" kit? I have a 3" body lift and I was told it has 3" coil spacers rear? not to jack your thread 91 toyota 4x4 but I dont want to deffy gravity cuz my surf is pretty still. peace!