widening a 79-85 toyota SFA without wheel spacers
#1
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widening a 79-85 toyota SFA without wheel spacers
These are the instructions I made for this so it kinda simplifys things.
Well here's the skinny on how to do the IFS hub body mod for a 79-85 toyota solid axle:
here's a example of he differences in the two hub bodies:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...postid=1649941
Purpose for this is to widen the axle without running a wheel spacer. This basically makes the front axle 58" wide instead of being 55" wide stock.
Here's where the thread started:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...9&page=1&pp=25
Then it took off sorta here
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=7449.0
Ok first here's the list of parts needed:
86-95 IFS hub body.
Leave all the wheel studs on it keep all the hardware to it including the bolts that attach the IFS rotor to the hub body.
Also keep your IFS Rotors you will need them for a drilling template later on.
You can use the wheel seals and bearings for the SFA hub in the IFS hub
86-95 IFS brake calipers
FJ40 disk brake rotors 81-up
You need longer bolts for the calipers because they attach to the outside of the knuckle mounts when you get done installing the IFS hub body. You can do this two ways either use a bolt and self locking nut to go through all the way or thread the caliper holes with a tap and thread a bolt through the caliper to secure it to the knuckle.
The parts I used for this:
4ea 2" 1/2" grade 8 bolts
4ea 1/2" lock nuts
Here's what you need to do.
Drill out the threads on the knuckle. A 31/64" drill bit will do this nicely. Then use a 1/2" drill bit to complete the job.
Do the same thing to your IFS brake caliper bolt holes use the 1/2" bit to finish.
You will have to trim your dustsheild to fit the brake calipers on the outside of the knuckle.
I ended up trimming the whole thing and removed the whole dustsheild on mine.
Take your old IFS rotor lay it on top of your FJ40 rotor use c-clamps to secure them together using the IFS rotor attachment holes as a template on the FJ40 rotor use a 3/8" metal drill bit and drill them to match the pattern.
The 3/8" drill bit is 9.5mm so it very close to the 10mm size of the diameter that goes through the rotor so you can use the bit to ream it to the right size if need be.
Bolt the newly drilled FJ40 rotor onto the IFS hub body the same was as you would a IFS rotor.
You may have to clearence the inside portion of the IFS brake calipers a little so the FJ40 rotor fits. With V6 IFS calipers there was no clearencing required.
Put the frankenstien together.
I found the IFS caliper will rub on the inside edge of my 15x8 wheels this can be taken care of using a 1/4" wheel spacer or grinding the outside of the caliper slightly so it clears the wheel which is prefered because you are trying to be without spacers in the front.
Hope this helps and thanks for the info on doing the rotor part on this White Trash .
Well here's the skinny on how to do the IFS hub body mod for a 79-85 toyota solid axle:
here's a example of he differences in the two hub bodies:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...postid=1649941
Purpose for this is to widen the axle without running a wheel spacer. This basically makes the front axle 58" wide instead of being 55" wide stock.
Here's where the thread started:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...9&page=1&pp=25
Then it took off sorta here
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=7449.0
Ok first here's the list of parts needed:
86-95 IFS hub body.
Leave all the wheel studs on it keep all the hardware to it including the bolts that attach the IFS rotor to the hub body.
Also keep your IFS Rotors you will need them for a drilling template later on.
You can use the wheel seals and bearings for the SFA hub in the IFS hub
86-95 IFS brake calipers
FJ40 disk brake rotors 81-up
You need longer bolts for the calipers because they attach to the outside of the knuckle mounts when you get done installing the IFS hub body. You can do this two ways either use a bolt and self locking nut to go through all the way or thread the caliper holes with a tap and thread a bolt through the caliper to secure it to the knuckle.
The parts I used for this:
4ea 2" 1/2" grade 8 bolts
4ea 1/2" lock nuts
Here's what you need to do.
Drill out the threads on the knuckle. A 31/64" drill bit will do this nicely. Then use a 1/2" drill bit to complete the job.
Do the same thing to your IFS brake caliper bolt holes use the 1/2" bit to finish.
You will have to trim your dustsheild to fit the brake calipers on the outside of the knuckle.
I ended up trimming the whole thing and removed the whole dustsheild on mine.
Take your old IFS rotor lay it on top of your FJ40 rotor use c-clamps to secure them together using the IFS rotor attachment holes as a template on the FJ40 rotor use a 3/8" metal drill bit and drill them to match the pattern.
The 3/8" drill bit is 9.5mm so it very close to the 10mm size of the diameter that goes through the rotor so you can use the bit to ream it to the right size if need be.
Bolt the newly drilled FJ40 rotor onto the IFS hub body the same was as you would a IFS rotor.
You may have to clearence the inside portion of the IFS brake calipers a little so the FJ40 rotor fits. With V6 IFS calipers there was no clearencing required.
Put the frankenstien together.
I found the IFS caliper will rub on the inside edge of my 15x8 wheels this can be taken care of using a 1/4" wheel spacer or grinding the outside of the caliper slightly so it clears the wheel which is prefered because you are trying to be without spacers in the front.
Hope this helps and thanks for the info on doing the rotor part on this White Trash .
Last edited by 934rnr; 05-21-2005 at 07:13 AM.
#6
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Thread Starter
Here's a few pics:
I had to grind some material off the side of the V6 IFS brake caliper because the rim was rubbing on the caliper.
I am not sure if the 4 cylinder IFS caliper are a little smaller so it may not be necessary to do this.
New width with tire on.
I had to grind some material off the side of the V6 IFS brake caliper because the rim was rubbing on the caliper.
I am not sure if the 4 cylinder IFS caliper are a little smaller so it may not be necessary to do this.
New width with tire on.
Last edited by 934rnr; 05-15-2005 at 11:29 AM.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
I finished the other side this afternoon definately alot of fun to do. The braking feels the same it just has a wider stance now. I also noticed my alignment is out a bit but oh well doing the hysteer next.
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#8
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Yoda
I think you use 1980+ FJ40 or FJ60 rotors. They are the same
#9
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Thread Starter
Here's a pic RJ took of my ugly mug grinding the dustsheild off.
Here's RJ's 1978 CJ7 with narrowed dana 60's axles e-lockers on 17" rims with 37x12.50 MTR's.
Here's RJ's 1978 CJ7 with narrowed dana 60's axles e-lockers on 17" rims with 37x12.50 MTR's.
Last edited by 934rnr; 05-17-2005 at 04:10 PM.
#10
Looks good, but I've checked my 1.5" wheel spacers 3 times already, not a single nut has budged a smidgen...I coated the crap out of the bolts/nuts w/ red loc tite...if I ever want those suckers off it will have to be with a torch...
If Sky's kit is $200...how much was all that junk you used?
If Sky's kit is $200...how much was all that junk you used?
#11
Originally Posted by 934rnr
Here's what you need to do.
Drill out the threads on the knuckle. A 31/64" drill bit will do this nicely.
Drill out the threads on the knuckle. A 31/64" drill bit will do this nicely.
Drill out what threads on the knuckle? 31/64...why not just use a 1/2" or maybe an 11mm?
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
I drilled both the threads for the caliper on the knuckle and the brake caliper bolt holes with a 31/64" drill bit then I had to finish drill it with a 1/2" drill bit afterwards sorry about not adding that.
You will also have to ream the holes a little in the FJ rotors because the 3/8" drill bit is 9.5 MM and it needs to be made slightly larger for the 10 MM bolts that attach it to the hub either that or find a 10MM drill bit.
It went better this time because I had 2 c-clamps and after I drilled a hole I checked it on the IFS hub to make sure it was straight. Then I continued doing the next hole and repeated the process.
Drilling the rotor pattern straight is the hardest part of doing this.
My suggestion on this to make a drilling template and use a drill press for drilling the holes.
As far as the price I am into this for about $75 including the drill bits, 2ea 1/2" 2" grade 8 bolts and 2 ea lock nuts and IFS hub bodies. I also forgot add 2ea 79-85 wheel bearing seals to that for about $10.
So it's still $115 less than sky's kit.
I guess it's up to you though wether you want spacers on your truck not.
I look at aluminum wheel spacers as a temporary solution to give you wheel spacing you need but they aren't a permant solution for the problem.
You will also have to ream the holes a little in the FJ rotors because the 3/8" drill bit is 9.5 MM and it needs to be made slightly larger for the 10 MM bolts that attach it to the hub either that or find a 10MM drill bit.
It went better this time because I had 2 c-clamps and after I drilled a hole I checked it on the IFS hub to make sure it was straight. Then I continued doing the next hole and repeated the process.
Drilling the rotor pattern straight is the hardest part of doing this.
My suggestion on this to make a drilling template and use a drill press for drilling the holes.
As far as the price I am into this for about $75 including the drill bits, 2ea 1/2" 2" grade 8 bolts and 2 ea lock nuts and IFS hub bodies. I also forgot add 2ea 79-85 wheel bearing seals to that for about $10.
So it's still $115 less than sky's kit.
I guess it's up to you though wether you want spacers on your truck not.
I look at aluminum wheel spacers as a temporary solution to give you wheel spacing you need but they aren't a permant solution for the problem.
Last edited by 934rnr; 05-18-2005 at 03:55 AM.
#15
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Wow, a whole axle swap...is there a disc brake conversion kit that can widen the rear in a similar fashion?
I am due for some new brakes.
I am due for some new brakes.
Last edited by getitdone; 08-23-2005 at 09:25 PM.
#18
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I know this is an old thread - however can '86+ IFS rotors work just as well with the IFS hubs? Why is it necessary to go to a FJ series rotor? Is it simply they are bigger than the 4 CYL IFS rotors?
I have a complete 1986 Toyota 4x4 XtrraCab LB parts truck with the IFS complete. Can I use the IFS 4 CYL vented rotors I already have for my 1985 4 Runner SFA?
Thanks for the info & help!
John
I have a complete 1986 Toyota 4x4 XtrraCab LB parts truck with the IFS complete. Can I use the IFS 4 CYL vented rotors I already have for my 1985 4 Runner SFA?
Thanks for the info & help!
John
#19
IFS vented rotor has only 6 holes
SFA FJ60/62 LC vented rotor has 8 holes
Last edited by rworegon; 08-15-2014 at 06:15 PM.
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Ahhh - makes sense now!! I didn't realize the FJ series rotors had 8 holes vs. the IFS rotors w/ 6 holes! Thanks Wabbit!!
I am not 100% ready to pull the trigger on the brakes, I have other things I needs to spend the money on (Histeer, shackles, drop bracket etc.)
I will bookmark your site and when I am ready I will let you know! You got some mad prices on stuff!
John
I am not 100% ready to pull the trigger on the brakes, I have other things I needs to spend the money on (Histeer, shackles, drop bracket etc.)
I will bookmark your site and when I am ready I will let you know! You got some mad prices on stuff!
John