are there no european 4x4 companies? Or is it just not reasonably priced. Just curious, you guys get all the nice toyotas.

 

There you go, it's all about geometry.


I love the old school pictures Roger


BigMike

 

No there's not much by way of 4x4 specialists vendors in the Uk or Ireland...off-roading isn't very big in Europe. But spare parts are easy enough to get. As for getting nice Toyotas here..you're definitely right! Just picked up a 95 4runner with a 1Kzt for 800 quid...and by the time I sell my old engine and some of the parts off the 4runner I will probably get most of that back....so it will cost me nearly nothing to upgrade to a 3 litre turbo! seems some of your lads pay over 10 grand for a half-cut of the same thing!

Quote:"Suppose you could do that, but there are things to consider. Taper on the tie rod ends might be upside down. And would need a custom tie rod w/ drag link attachment, some Jeeps use a setup like this. Also, makes adjusting toe in harder as you can't just turn the tie rod in or out"

Any suggestions on overcoming the problem with the taper? Would there be any kinda special tie rod end that could connect to the knuckle arm on one side and the drag link on the other?(to avoid having to connect to the tie rod)

 

Taper would all depend on which way the arms and tie rod are mounted in the end. If it is off, then you would need to drill out the tapered hole and there are weld-in taper insert available some place as I recall. Or you could drill out to a straight hole and run heim joints. That is how my old steering was set up. Probably need to custom fabricate tie rod or adapt something like that from another vehicle. Or just keep the over/under setup, you get the benefits of crossover steering without the hassle of messing with the tie rod.

Or you could of course use a pre-made high steer arm as they have two holes for tie rod and drag link.

 

Wouldn't something like this (http://www.est1946.com/tierodends.aspx) "double-eye" tie rod end work to allow attahment of the drag link? and would allow for adjustment of the tie rod to do toe-in etc ya?

 

now that you throw that backwards RHD into the equation-suck it up and order it from Trail-Gear--they have RHD-http://www.trail-gear.com/high-steer-kits

 

Sure that would be the one option. Of course those rod ends will likely not be the same thread size as Toyota so you would be looking at getting a custom made tie rod along with a custom made drag link.

 

Well the tie rod I have already has one of those "double eye" ends...so that makes that easy. so I'd just need a custom drag link to connect the box-arm to that double eye. any pointers on doing that? pipe size? measuring? etc
My other question is if I made those homemade histeer arm like in that picture...how high over the leafs do they need to put the tie rod? does it need to go JUST above it?
And the torque rod has to go, correct?

 

Likely the extra hole you see if for the stock steering stabilizer. Not sure if that is strong enough for a drag link to attach to, never seen anyone use it like that either. High steer tie rod and drag link are usually made of 1.25" dia. x 0.25" wall DOM tubing, you'll need to find a machine shop that can drill and tap that for the proper metric right and left hand tie rod end threads for you.

You'll need at least 3" (4" better) lift to fit everything over the springs. With 3" lift on my '85, it was a TIGHT fit to make it all fit. I had heim joint ends and could modify spacer thicknesses to raise and lower the rods to have enough clearance over the springs and under the frame. As is, the drag link ended up with all the paint scraped off the top and bottom as it would just rub the springs when the passenger side was fully down and would touch the frame at full compression. With stock tie rod ends, you'll need to measure clearances carefully as you can't adjust the heights once all is fabricated.

And yes, no torque rod, it is in the way and actually serves no purpose with cross over steering.

 

yea thats the hole im talkin about! saw a pic of someone else doin that: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ngresearch.htm
with a bit of reinforcement would it do?
what about the arm on the ifs box...would it work to leave the bolt on the arm and have an eye end on the drag link to connect to it?(to avoid having to change the arm)
My truck has a 6 inch suspension lift....so how far above the leafs would be the ideal height for the tie rod?

 

I bought the trail gear hi-steer arms, made for RH/D.. If cash is an issue, save up..lol. I know its a killer, but buy right & buy once!!