Solid axle steering?
 

Ok I'll try posting this again for the third time! It's a legitimate(googles and unanswered) question so please don't delete it!!
My question is about steering for a solid axle...why is the crossover steering used as the "accepted" form of steering instead of the stock 4runner steering?...ie what are the technical reasons?
In my searching for the answer it seems that there are other brands of older truck with solid axles that have the same style steering as a 4runner

Because the stock push pull system sucks that came on 79-85 trucks.

Spend $400, get high steer, an IFS box and mounting kit and don't look back.
Oh and you need about 3" of lift to clear it.

It is about the best mod I have done to my truck, much tighter, positive steering.

Edit-I looked and I don't see a record of 2 other threads started by you being deleted.

re
 

No the steering I'm talking about is the "recirculating ball" steering on the ifs 4runners...ie the one that has the idler arm etc....what's the reason that's not used?

(dont know what happened to those other posts...they just disappeared!)

Because with a solid axle that setup would have incredible bumpsteer, since the steering linkage does not move in the same arc as the axle. Thus, when you hit bumps in the road, your truck would steer without input to the steering wheel.

Death would ensue.

re
 

Ahh ok thanks that makes sense and clears that up....but...now I'm confused as to why crossover/histeer wouldnt have the same problem?

It does, but because the tie rod is so much longer, the change in angle for road driving is so small that the bump steer isn't very noticeable.

Affordable Histeer solution?
 

ok So I already have an ifs steer box and would like to do histeer on a93 sfa hilux but can't afford the histeer arms that are for sale....Are there any other options?
Can anybody give an opinion on the safety of this kind of set up for the histeer arm?: (http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Foru...=5020&start=30)

thanks for clearing that up!
I've posted now a question about affordable histeer solutions here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120.../#post51716345

just troll the for sale pages of a few forums and craigslist until the right deal pops up. That's how I got my hi-steer kit.

Plus one to what SCtoy said. Buy a proper Hi steer and you won't have to worry about Breaking a stock steering arm. 300 isn't all that much for something as safety related as steering components.

That looks like the original setup for crossover steering, using an extra steering arm, fliped and attached to the top of the far side of the axle for the drag link to attach. They worked fine for many folks until the ore-made high steer arms were available. I ran one like that for years w/o trouble:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...CrossOver1.jpg
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...CrossOver2.jpg
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...CrossOver3.jpg
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...CrossOver4.jpg

This was the original AllPro welded arm setup. Also, note that is is cross over steering, but leaves the tie rod in the stock location under the springs, so is not technically "high steer" which has the tie rod over the springs. The arms need to be welded and braced properly.

as for buying used, postage would be a problem as I live in Ireland, so that would still mess with my money issue.

As for the idea in that link that I posted....can that be done on both sides to connect the tie rod over the springs?....and then connect the drag link to the tie rod I suppose?

well the arms should fit in a flat rate international box which from a quick google is about 14 bucks

I would bet Arms and TRE's and Threaded inserts for the DOM tubing would all fit in one Flat rate box. Then the only thing you would have to source locally would be the Tubing for the links.

Except that the $14 small flat rate box only has a 4 lb. weight limit for international shipping (the high steer arms would run heavier than that - and that box is "small", size of a VHS tape cassette). Over 4 lbs. and you need to go to the medium flat rate box and that runs $46 for up to 20 lbs.

Good point, didn't read the top of the page, but either way waiting for a good deal+45 bucks is a small price to pay for peace of mind. Steering is kind of important :great: These projects are never as cheap as you'd like them to be :mad2:

Ahhh! Dont do that. Just add the question to this thread.

This topic has been covered, many times.

Start here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...-build-221981/

I am also merging your threads. Please take some time to search, it HAS been covered.

Yeah I will keep an eye open if there is anything cheap enough...but it'd have to be rhd, which limits the possibilities
but otherwise I want to know is this other idea do-able and safe......
so...."As for the idea in that link that I posted (http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Foru...=5020&start=30) ....can that be done on both sides to connect the tie rod over the springs?....and then connect the drag link to the tie rod I suppose?"

(as for the idea an "deathcougar's" post..Ive seen that...but that's not what Im talking about!)

Suppose you could do that, but there are things to consider. Taper on the tie rod ends might be upside down. And would need a custom tie rod w/ drag link attachment, some Jeeps use a setup like this. Also, makes adjusting toe in harder as you can't just turn the tie rod in or out.

No issue leaving the tie rod low, it'll work fine. If worried about trail damage, sleeve it with some heavy wall steel tubing that just fits over the stock tie rod. Marlin and a few other vendors used to sell beefed up stock tie rods, I ran one of Marlin's Marlinks (1.25" DOM tube w/ FJ80 rod ends) on my truck:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/Santiago/Images/roger2.jpg