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'92 4runner rear suspension links

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Old May 23, 2011 | 04:52 PM
  #1  
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From: Oakhurst, CA
'92 4runner rear suspension links

I was looking at the rear suspension of my 4runner and was wondering how to get more travel out of it? what came to mind was a leaf spring swap, but thats a lot of work. Then i thought about making the rear links longer, i was wondering if this would give me the desired effect? I have searched a lot and have come up empty handed.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old May 24, 2011 | 05:59 PM
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bump!! anybody?
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Old May 24, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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u can extend the rear links but u might also have to move the mounts on the frame, other wise it could end up pushing the rear tires towards the back, i think that doing the leafs would be less work and easier. but just my .02
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Old May 24, 2011 | 08:30 PM
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I dont think it would be too hard of a task to move the mounts on the frame. I think it would be worth it to try and use the stock links, it would definetly be interesting.

I was looking at them and noticed there are 5, 4 of which look to be useful.... but then there's that one hangin from the top lookin like he is doin nothin but limiting droop. whats with that guy lol?

If he really isn't doin much i would just cut him off. I could get some DOM tubing and use those as the links instead. Do you know of any aftermarket mounts?

Oh and thanks for replying haha
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Old May 25, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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anybody?
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Old May 25, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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if u are talking about the one that goes from one side to the other that keeps the rear lined up. i forget the real name of it right now.
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Old May 25, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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I have been thinking about this task for a long time, I was actually going to just do the leaf swap and scrap the whole ghetto factory 4 link, Problem is 2 things, 1 is the gas tank gets in the way of running lower links 2nd is if you look at you passenger side upper link you will see it is very short and very limiting because of problem 1. The side to side bar in the back is your panhard bar, you need that to keep that axle center, it locates the axle side to side. Only way to do anything in the rear as far as links is build a 3 link which is the route I am going. Run a bar from the top of the axle following the driveshafts line of travel to a custom cross member in the center of the trans tunnel, and extend the lower links to the bottom of the rear passenger doors, I am un-decided of what shocks/coils I am going to go with at this point in time but just some insight of what I have planned so far
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Old May 25, 2011 | 05:55 PM
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From: Audubon NJ
Trail-Gear sells a kit BTW if your not to handy with fab work, its their Trail a link three kit buy it weld it in and select your choice of shocks/coils
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Old May 26, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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will the 3 link get rid of the panhard bar? The 3 link looks easy to make but aren't they difficult to dial in? Such as the lengths of the links? i have read but i am still confused. But i guess i could just copy trail gears lengths
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Old May 26, 2011 | 10:03 AM
  #10  
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Never mind trail gears website sais it still includes the panhard
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Old May 26, 2011 | 10:50 AM
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You MUST have a panhard unless you run either a true 4 link with enough triangulation in either the uppers or lowers, or both, to locate the axle, or a ylink 3link.

It is impossible to a triangulated 4link with the gas tank in the stock location.

The y link design is good, except that it puts a TON of force on the upper link, so many users of this design have had issues with frame tearing. You will need to plate a good section of the factory frame with 1/4" steel, and heavily brace the frameside attachment points.

However, the panhard does not limit flex whatsoever.

Relocating the stock brackets is a waste of time. Simply too much work for big rock anchors moved farther up on the frame, which will hang you up even more.

Your rear axle is likely more limited by your shock travel than the links.

The best way to get more travel out of the stock rear is to simply replace all of the links with beefier material, and use heim joints at either end, instead of the factory bushings. Any flex you have now is due to the rubber in the bushings flexing. Puting in an actual joint will allow your suspension to flex farther, smoother, and give you the result you desire. Provided, of course, that you put in longer shocks.

Leaf spring swaps are very easy, and work well. That would be my vote. And no, the gas tank does not get in the way of a leaf swap.
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Old May 26, 2011 | 10:54 AM
  #12  
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And y links also flex well:



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Old May 26, 2011 | 12:21 PM
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
Where is your gas tank on that white 4Runner? That is a sick amount of flex but if it is a street truck how well does it drive?
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Old May 27, 2011 | 09:55 AM
  #14  
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Stock location. Not my truck
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Old May 29, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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From: Audubon NJ
Originally Posted by AxleIke
You MUST have a panhard unless you run either a true 4 link with enough triangulation in either the uppers or lowers, or both, to locate the axle, or a ylink 3link.

It is impossible to a triangulated 4link with the gas tank in the stock location.

The y link design is good, except that it puts a TON of force on the upper link, so many users of this design have had issues with frame tearing. You will need to plate a good section of the factory frame with 1/4" steel, and heavily brace the frameside attachment points.

However, the panhard does not limit flex whatsoever.

Relocating the stock brackets is a waste of time. Simply too much work for big rock anchors moved farther up on the frame, which will hang you up even more.

Your rear axle is likely more limited by your shock travel than the links.

The best way to get more travel out of the stock rear is to simply replace all of the links with beefier material, and use heim joints at either end, instead of the factory bushings. Any flex you have now is due to the rubber in the bushings flexing. Puting in an actual joint will allow your suspension to flex farther, smoother, and give you the result you desire. Provided, of course, that you put in longer shocks.

Leaf spring swaps are very easy, and work well. That would be my vote. And no, the gas tank does not get in the way of a leaf swap.
X2 on what Axleike said, pretty much what I said but good info, like I said if your not to crafty with fab work Trail-Gear sells both Leaf conversion or 3 or 4 Link set ups but I recommend going 3 link unless feel like messing with gas tanks etc
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Old Jun 5, 2016 | 08:16 AM
  #16  
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My question on this topic is can I run just 4 link with coil overs on the street. Can't find an answer anywhere
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