'92 4runner rear suspension links
#1
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'92 4runner rear suspension links
I was looking at the rear suspension of my 4runner and was wondering how to get more travel out of it? what came to mind was a leaf spring swap, but thats a lot of work. Then i thought about making the rear links longer, i was wondering if this would give me the desired effect? I have searched a lot and have come up empty handed.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#3
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u can extend the rear links but u might also have to move the mounts on the frame, other wise it could end up pushing the rear tires towards the back, i think that doing the leafs would be less work and easier. but just my .02
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I dont think it would be too hard of a task to move the mounts on the frame. I think it would be worth it to try and use the stock links, it would definetly be interesting.
I was looking at them and noticed there are 5, 4 of which look to be useful.... but then there's that one hangin from the top lookin like he is doin nothin but limiting droop. whats with that guy lol?
If he really isn't doin much i would just cut him off. I could get some DOM tubing and use those as the links instead. Do you know of any aftermarket mounts?
Oh and thanks for replying haha
I was looking at them and noticed there are 5, 4 of which look to be useful.... but then there's that one hangin from the top lookin like he is doin nothin but limiting droop. whats with that guy lol?
If he really isn't doin much i would just cut him off. I could get some DOM tubing and use those as the links instead. Do you know of any aftermarket mounts?
Oh and thanks for replying haha
#7
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I have been thinking about this task for a long time, I was actually going to just do the leaf swap and scrap the whole ghetto factory 4 link, Problem is 2 things, 1 is the gas tank gets in the way of running lower links 2nd is if you look at you passenger side upper link you will see it is very short and very limiting because of problem 1. The side to side bar in the back is your panhard bar, you need that to keep that axle center, it locates the axle side to side. Only way to do anything in the rear as far as links is build a 3 link which is the route I am going. Run a bar from the top of the axle following the driveshafts line of travel to a custom cross member in the center of the trans tunnel, and extend the lower links to the bottom of the rear passenger doors, I am un-decided of what shocks/coils I am going to go with at this point in time but just some insight of what I have planned so far
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#9
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will the 3 link get rid of the panhard bar? The 3 link looks easy to make but aren't they difficult to dial in? Such as the lengths of the links? i have read but i am still confused. But i guess i could just copy trail gears lengths
#11
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You MUST have a panhard unless you run either a true 4 link with enough triangulation in either the uppers or lowers, or both, to locate the axle, or a ylink 3link.
It is impossible to a triangulated 4link with the gas tank in the stock location.
The y link design is good, except that it puts a TON of force on the upper link, so many users of this design have had issues with frame tearing. You will need to plate a good section of the factory frame with 1/4" steel, and heavily brace the frameside attachment points.
However, the panhard does not limit flex whatsoever.
Relocating the stock brackets is a waste of time. Simply too much work for big rock anchors moved farther up on the frame, which will hang you up even more.
Your rear axle is likely more limited by your shock travel than the links.
The best way to get more travel out of the stock rear is to simply replace all of the links with beefier material, and use heim joints at either end, instead of the factory bushings. Any flex you have now is due to the rubber in the bushings flexing. Puting in an actual joint will allow your suspension to flex farther, smoother, and give you the result you desire. Provided, of course, that you put in longer shocks.
Leaf spring swaps are very easy, and work well. That would be my vote. And no, the gas tank does not get in the way of a leaf swap.
It is impossible to a triangulated 4link with the gas tank in the stock location.
The y link design is good, except that it puts a TON of force on the upper link, so many users of this design have had issues with frame tearing. You will need to plate a good section of the factory frame with 1/4" steel, and heavily brace the frameside attachment points.
However, the panhard does not limit flex whatsoever.
Relocating the stock brackets is a waste of time. Simply too much work for big rock anchors moved farther up on the frame, which will hang you up even more.
Your rear axle is likely more limited by your shock travel than the links.
The best way to get more travel out of the stock rear is to simply replace all of the links with beefier material, and use heim joints at either end, instead of the factory bushings. Any flex you have now is due to the rubber in the bushings flexing. Puting in an actual joint will allow your suspension to flex farther, smoother, and give you the result you desire. Provided, of course, that you put in longer shocks.
Leaf spring swaps are very easy, and work well. That would be my vote. And no, the gas tank does not get in the way of a leaf swap.
#15
Registered User
You MUST have a panhard unless you run either a true 4 link with enough triangulation in either the uppers or lowers, or both, to locate the axle, or a ylink 3link.
It is impossible to a triangulated 4link with the gas tank in the stock location.
The y link design is good, except that it puts a TON of force on the upper link, so many users of this design have had issues with frame tearing. You will need to plate a good section of the factory frame with 1/4" steel, and heavily brace the frameside attachment points.
However, the panhard does not limit flex whatsoever.
Relocating the stock brackets is a waste of time. Simply too much work for big rock anchors moved farther up on the frame, which will hang you up even more.
Your rear axle is likely more limited by your shock travel than the links.
The best way to get more travel out of the stock rear is to simply replace all of the links with beefier material, and use heim joints at either end, instead of the factory bushings. Any flex you have now is due to the rubber in the bushings flexing. Puting in an actual joint will allow your suspension to flex farther, smoother, and give you the result you desire. Provided, of course, that you put in longer shocks.
Leaf spring swaps are very easy, and work well. That would be my vote. And no, the gas tank does not get in the way of a leaf swap.
It is impossible to a triangulated 4link with the gas tank in the stock location.
The y link design is good, except that it puts a TON of force on the upper link, so many users of this design have had issues with frame tearing. You will need to plate a good section of the factory frame with 1/4" steel, and heavily brace the frameside attachment points.
However, the panhard does not limit flex whatsoever.
Relocating the stock brackets is a waste of time. Simply too much work for big rock anchors moved farther up on the frame, which will hang you up even more.
Your rear axle is likely more limited by your shock travel than the links.
The best way to get more travel out of the stock rear is to simply replace all of the links with beefier material, and use heim joints at either end, instead of the factory bushings. Any flex you have now is due to the rubber in the bushings flexing. Puting in an actual joint will allow your suspension to flex farther, smoother, and give you the result you desire. Provided, of course, that you put in longer shocks.
Leaf spring swaps are very easy, and work well. That would be my vote. And no, the gas tank does not get in the way of a leaf swap.
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