89 4runner wont start
#1
89 4runner wont start
Hi, i have an 89 4unner with 22re ... I replaced the head gasket on it and now it wont start, i have spark and my timing is good, not getting fuel. I have fuel in my fuel rail tho. It runs on ether. All my wiring connectors are hooked up except the extra couple ..i cant figure why it wont get fuel, the truck ran before i pulled it apart so cant imagine all 4 injectors would clog, any ideas would be appreciated thanks
#4
and try a different ecu
Search Terry's posts.
Check to see you get 12V to injector resistors.
Inspect/check/measure wires that go from negative side of injectors to pins #20 and #10 of ECU. There is a couple of lousy crimps that get oxidized, brittle, exposed to extreme temps near intake manifold, and easily break with the slightest tension.
Here's schematic:
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-02-2014 at 02:46 PM.
#5
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Here is a thought.
I was working on one only students Toyotas (22re) last spring. We pulled the engine and replaced a lot of parts.
When we reinstalled the engine, we were having issues with it never coming out of base timing. It would never advance on it's own as it should.
A lot of painful hours led me to the harems that goes through the intakes and feeds the AFM. There are factory crimps in the harness and one wire (wht/red) was pulled out of the crimp where it should have been. Therefore causing our issue.
This happened while we were wrestling the harness around and trying to get everything back together.
It's worth a shot to open up the wiring and take a look to see if maybe the wires that come from the AFM, to fire on the pump are I'm tact.
I was working on one only students Toyotas (22re) last spring. We pulled the engine and replaced a lot of parts.
When we reinstalled the engine, we were having issues with it never coming out of base timing. It would never advance on it's own as it should.
A lot of painful hours led me to the harems that goes through the intakes and feeds the AFM. There are factory crimps in the harness and one wire (wht/red) was pulled out of the crimp where it should have been. Therefore causing our issue.
This happened while we were wrestling the harness around and trying to get everything back together.
It's worth a shot to open up the wiring and take a look to see if maybe the wires that come from the AFM, to fire on the pump are I'm tact.
#6
Ill try that ... I used a noid light and it says that injectors are getting power so i replaced all the injectors and still not starting ... Im super stumped about it ... Unless all the new ones are crap too
#7
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Just because the noid light is firing, doesn't mean the injectors are getting enough of a pulse to fire them. How are the crimps? The return wire can corrode as well. Is the ground wire connected on the intake manifold?
Are you getting fuel to the rail? Pull the Return Line off of the fuel pressure regulator and stick in a jar and with the fuel pump jumper in and the key on, will it fill a quart jar in a minute or so?
Fp +B Fuel Pump Test for 87 and newer. Use a paper clip for better results.
If you want to test your injector, you can run two wires from a 9 volt battery to the connectors on the injector and for 1-2 seconds at a time, touch the wires to the terminals and with a syringe, a rubber hose, and it filled with carb cleaner, it will flow cleaner thru it and that will tell you if the injector is working with the syringe under pressure. If you have an old connector, that will make it easier to test with.
Are you getting fuel to the rail? Pull the Return Line off of the fuel pressure regulator and stick in a jar and with the fuel pump jumper in and the key on, will it fill a quart jar in a minute or so?
Fp +B Fuel Pump Test for 87 and newer. Use a paper clip for better results.
If you want to test your injector, you can run two wires from a 9 volt battery to the connectors on the injector and for 1-2 seconds at a time, touch the wires to the terminals and with a syringe, a rubber hose, and it filled with carb cleaner, it will flow cleaner thru it and that will tell you if the injector is working with the syringe under pressure. If you have an old connector, that will make it easier to test with.
Last edited by Terrys87; 09-02-2014 at 11:51 PM.
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#10
The crimps are on the harness that connect to the injector connectors. You do not "Rip" things, you remove the tape covering the wires so you get to see the wires and the crimps. It's called "inspection". It's what we do to keep our trucks in good shape, to find problems and potential ones, and so we do not rely on stealers.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-06-2014 at 09:30 PM.
#11
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What are stealers ???
Remember some look at Toyota Schematics and it looks like Chinese although they are easy to read!!
It has to be something that was pulled apart or not hooked up.
Just the plugs on the injector harness get so brittle with age .plugs seated all the way??
Did you force some connectors together and bend and smash pins ??
Remember some look at Toyota Schematics and it looks like Chinese although they are easy to read!!
It has to be something that was pulled apart or not hooked up.
Just the plugs on the injector harness get so brittle with age .plugs seated all the way??
Did you force some connectors together and bend and smash pins ??
#12
#15
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You do have fuel in the tank??
You checked the fuel pump is indeed running??just because the injectors have the electrical signal to fire without the correct fuel pressure they will not fire..
You changed them with new injectors??
Ok it starts on starting fluid so your not getting fuel .
Do you have a good ground for the ecu on the intake manifold??
It has to be something you forgot..
You checked the fuel pump is indeed running??just because the injectors have the electrical signal to fire without the correct fuel pressure they will not fire..
You changed them with new injectors??
Ok it starts on starting fluid so your not getting fuel .
Do you have a good ground for the ecu on the intake manifold??
It has to be something you forgot..
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