3.4 v6 rebuilt engine won't start!!!!
#1
3.4 v6 rebuilt engine won't start!!!!
Hey guys this is my first post so go easy on me. Just bought a 96 Tacoma 3.4 v6 got the truck with a misfire in cyl 2. Decided to pull the motor and do a rebuild finally put it in this weekend. Now the problem is I can't get it to start. It cranks over but won't fire. I'm getting fuel and spark I've gone over all hoses,grounds and harness clips. Everything seems to be plugged in. Checked the compression and all cylinders are at 200. Made sure the spark plug wires are correct. We did the timing belt doubled checked that twice while the motor was out. The only thing we come across on the forums is the timing is off. So we have to check the timing marks again. But the thing is I'm not getting any vacuum. Any ideas how we can test for vacuum?
#2
After examining a photo I took before tearing it apart it appears there is a hose not plugged in comming from the charcoal cannister. I plugged it in putting the motor back in. Right now I have the intake apart. Should I put it back together and try starting it with that hose unplugged?
#3
not having a vacuum line hooked up wont make your engine not fire... I know you said you've double checked your timing but i'd check it again... set your dizzy to the #1 plug. make sure you are at TDC... pull your valve cover off and ensure you are on the compression stroke...
I have a 22re and after doing the tcover and dizzy o ring my engine did the same thing... from what you are describing, it sounds like the typical timing issue.
I have a 22re and after doing the tcover and dizzy o ring my engine did the same thing... from what you are describing, it sounds like the typical timing issue.
#4
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
cwalstad, the 3.4L V6 5vz-fe engine has no dizzy.
OP, be sure the crank is set as show on page EM-19 and cam on EM-20. We have seen cases where the wrong mark was being used on the crank gear when attempting to set crank to TDC.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...imbel/inst.pdf
The intake, all vacuum connections, and electrical connections including grounds should be installed before attempting to start.
OP, be sure the crank is set as show on page EM-19 and cam on EM-20. We have seen cases where the wrong mark was being used on the crank gear when attempting to set crank to TDC.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...imbel/inst.pdf
The intake, all vacuum connections, and electrical connections including grounds should be installed before attempting to start.
Last edited by rworegon; Mar 25, 2012 at 02:59 PM.
#7
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#9
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Take a look at post 32 (pictures 4 through 6) for proper alignment of crank and cams at TDC:
http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-art...ng-belt-4.html
http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-art...ng-belt-4.html
Last edited by rworegon; Dec 6, 2014 at 02:45 PM.
#10
Quick little update my buddy ripped everything apart an found that the crank gear had two timing marks one dimple and one line. We went with the line judging by the pictures we should have went with the dimple. Which would mean we were off by 90 degrees. So he decided to take the crank gear out and take a picture to send to me. Lol in doing so he broke a tooth so we have to wait till wedsday to put it back together.
#11
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
It's not the first time a tooth has broke off, nor will it be the last most likely. 
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...76/index2.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...76/index2.html
#12
Well after fixing the timing she started right up. Now I got an overheating issue. Radiator isn't new and worked fine before I took the engine out. Thermostat is new put the jiggly valve at 12 oclock like the fsm said. Hoping the radiator is clogged. But Im doing this project because of a cyl 2 misfire. Got the heads redone. The guy at the machine shop said the valves were warped and the seats were bad. Now the misfire is back. Compression test came back at 160 in number 2. We can't figure out what's causing it to misfire. Any advice on any problem would be appreciated.
#13
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Glad you got it running.
Overheating? How is this being determined? Did you fill the block with coolant through the upper radiator hose? All air bubbles burped out of the cooling system?
Hmmm, the FSM generally used states jiggle valve at 6 o'clock...see post 4:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...easure-249481/
The thread above also documents a 10or so degree drop in coolant temp when the jiggle valve is at the 6 vs. 12 position using the 82C, ~180degF thermostat.
Overheating? How is this being determined? Did you fill the block with coolant through the upper radiator hose? All air bubbles burped out of the cooling system?
Hmmm, the FSM generally used states jiggle valve at 6 o'clock...see post 4:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...easure-249481/
The thread above also documents a 10or so degree drop in coolant temp when the jiggle valve is at the 6 vs. 12 position using the 82C, ~180degF thermostat.
Last edited by rworegon; Mar 28, 2012 at 06:59 PM.
#14
Filled it up through the top radiator hose. We had the code scanner plugged in that's how we reading the temp. It would go up to 230 degrees and we shut it off. We burped the radiator for about two hours and still only the top of the radiator would get hot. Also what I can't understand is before we fixed the timing cylinder 2 compression was at 200 now with the truck running its back to low compression.
#16
No the cams aren't new. The heads have been shaved valves grinded seats redone and seals as well. The heads were tested before i picked them up My buddy said the fuel injector isn't working so he thinks we broke a wire in our process. Or that could have been the original problem. Lol this has been a nightmare of a project.
#17
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Coolant flows from the top to the bottom of the radiator so the top will always be hotter.
Fan is installed? Was the 230 deg obtained just idling in park? Have you checked the fan clutch to be sure it is engaging?
It could be you installed the head gaskets upside down blocking some water ports (post 54 to end):
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/9...tumped-245391/
Your 160 on the compression is well within the range specified in the FSM of 145 to 174 with a difference of 15 psi or less between cylinder.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...compr/insp.pdf
Fan is installed? Was the 230 deg obtained just idling in park? Have you checked the fan clutch to be sure it is engaging?
It could be you installed the head gaskets upside down blocking some water ports (post 54 to end):
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/9...tumped-245391/
Your 160 on the compression is well within the range specified in the FSM of 145 to 174 with a difference of 15 psi or less between cylinder.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...compr/insp.pdf
Last edited by rworegon; Mar 29, 2012 at 07:38 AM.
#18
The injector is supposed to read 14 ohms but we got no reading. As a precaution we pulled another one and got a 14 ohms reading. So the injector is bad. We will put it in tonight see what happens. If all is good we will turn the jiggly valve to 6 o'clock and hopefully be able to unclog/figure out the radiator issue. Fingers crossed. Lol.
#20
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
At those temps, the fan clutch should be engaged and the fan is at full roar. Do a search here for how to test the fan clutch. You are getting too hot, too fast for sure.



