22re timing chain and head gasket
#21
Hey Joe....
If you're trying to 'get to TDC on Compression Stroke', ..... don't go solely by the "bright link", ok? It can take MANYYYYY revolutions to get it to TDC-Compression/Bright link at 11:59 on the clock(You want the CAM MARK, not dimple in CAM drive gear, to be at 12'o'Clock)......... MAYBE you got lucky on this turn of the crank and the bright link is 'right on spot, over dimple, 11:59).... But if the link is at DIRECTLY 12'O'CLOCK.... that's why the Crank Dot is a 'lil past '0' '...... Feel me? Make two full turns of the crank again to where you're on TDC on compression stroke/Dizzy Rotor pointing at #1/ Pistons 1 and 4 at the tippy top/Harmonic Balancer Mark dead on '0'....... Why?>>> Because you don't want to turn the crank backwards in order to achieve "TDC-Compression".... It will then be off on the Adjusters/Valve Lash, etc., trust me. NOT MUCH, but enough to make a difference.
In other words.... IGNORE THE SHINY LINK FOR NOW! lol... you're going to set it up with that link dead on at 11:59 and the CAM notch at 12:00 with your new chain kit, anyhow.... But for now, just be sure you're at TDC(especially if you're not going to pull the head....??? You decide on that yet, btw?)
If you're trying to 'get to TDC on Compression Stroke', ..... don't go solely by the "bright link", ok? It can take MANYYYYY revolutions to get it to TDC-Compression/Bright link at 11:59 on the clock(You want the CAM MARK, not dimple in CAM drive gear, to be at 12'o'Clock)......... MAYBE you got lucky on this turn of the crank and the bright link is 'right on spot, over dimple, 11:59).... But if the link is at DIRECTLY 12'O'CLOCK.... that's why the Crank Dot is a 'lil past '0' '...... Feel me? Make two full turns of the crank again to where you're on TDC on compression stroke/Dizzy Rotor pointing at #1/ Pistons 1 and 4 at the tippy top/Harmonic Balancer Mark dead on '0'....... Why?>>> Because you don't want to turn the crank backwards in order to achieve "TDC-Compression".... It will then be off on the Adjusters/Valve Lash, etc., trust me. NOT MUCH, but enough to make a difference.
In other words.... IGNORE THE SHINY LINK FOR NOW! lol... you're going to set it up with that link dead on at 11:59 and the CAM notch at 12:00 with your new chain kit, anyhow.... But for now, just be sure you're at TDC(especially if you're not going to pull the head....??? You decide on that yet, btw?)
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Oct 7, 2011 at 01:53 PM.
#22
Crap I already went backwards, counter clockwise. Is it off forever now, or do I just keep turning it clockwise, and it will go back?
I'm just going to wait, chain and guides seem good for now. I would rather wait until I have more time. Just going to clean the injectors, and try to get it tuned up as best I can.
Update, Turned it again, found shiny link. At TDC shiny link at about 2:59, notch in harmonic balancer is at is at about 9:30. Haven't pulled the rotar cap yet.
So did I screw it up totally by going backwards, or is there a way to fix that.
I'm just going to wait, chain and guides seem good for now. I would rather wait until I have more time. Just going to clean the injectors, and try to get it tuned up as best I can.
Update, Turned it again, found shiny link. At TDC shiny link at about 2:59, notch in harmonic balancer is at is at about 9:30. Haven't pulled the rotar cap yet.
So did I screw it up totally by going backwards, or is there a way to fix that.
Last edited by giantjoebot; Oct 7, 2011 at 02:33 PM.
#23
NOOOOOO, sorry Joe, didn't mean to make you think that... Just that, well, if you 'SET YOUR LASH' after 'backing up' like that... it wont be accurate, really, ya know?....
No, just go forward 2 times till you're in the same spot on the crank and look at your rotor/look in the #1 hole if you want to be sure it's at the top, and then call it a day.
Personally, .... I get it, especially not KNOWING, FOR SURE, how long it MIGHT or little is might take... And honestly? If it's looking good to go, especially up top on the driver side rail(if ANY of that is busted, I would NOT recommend you hold off on that and take a 3000 mile trip, ya get me? lol)...... But if everything looks good, ...sure, you could just service the injectors, do an oil change, then hit the road, ..........why not? Just remember, .... you ARE in the realm in regards to miles where the guides CAN just go, etc., .............BUT, if you're not experiencing any easily audible chain slap, etc.,.... well, they can just keep going, indeed. Mine was rebuild for the first time at 257K miles... Original Chain/Guides/tensioner, ALL in tact......... but that DOES NOT MEAN the same will apply for you, or Ian, or any of the guys on here, ya know?
SOOOOOOOOO, if you change your mind in the next 24 hours.... I don't think you will find it taking more than a week/first time/4 days off and 3 days spare time-pulling nights on it. But I get it... if something goes wrong(which is rare), and you're pushed right to the last minute waiting for parts, etc., .... that would suck.
Just out of curiosity..... if you're not removing the chain, etc., etc..... And you haven't removed the Dizzy.............. Why are you so concerned over TDC right now?......... It is where it is, for now, ........can't change that by cranking it over HOWEVER many times......... UNLESS, of course, you did pull the distributor out. THEN it's important, for sure! lol.
No, just go forward 2 times till you're in the same spot on the crank and look at your rotor/look in the #1 hole if you want to be sure it's at the top, and then call it a day.
Personally, .... I get it, especially not KNOWING, FOR SURE, how long it MIGHT or little is might take... And honestly? If it's looking good to go, especially up top on the driver side rail(if ANY of that is busted, I would NOT recommend you hold off on that and take a 3000 mile trip, ya get me? lol)...... But if everything looks good, ...sure, you could just service the injectors, do an oil change, then hit the road, ..........why not? Just remember, .... you ARE in the realm in regards to miles where the guides CAN just go, etc., .............BUT, if you're not experiencing any easily audible chain slap, etc.,.... well, they can just keep going, indeed. Mine was rebuild for the first time at 257K miles... Original Chain/Guides/tensioner, ALL in tact......... but that DOES NOT MEAN the same will apply for you, or Ian, or any of the guys on here, ya know?
SOOOOOOOOO, if you change your mind in the next 24 hours.... I don't think you will find it taking more than a week/first time/4 days off and 3 days spare time-pulling nights on it. But I get it... if something goes wrong(which is rare), and you're pushed right to the last minute waiting for parts, etc., .... that would suck.
Just out of curiosity..... if you're not removing the chain, etc., etc..... And you haven't removed the Dizzy.............. Why are you so concerned over TDC right now?......... It is where it is, for now, ........can't change that by cranking it over HOWEVER many times......... UNLESS, of course, you did pull the distributor out. THEN it's important, for sure! lol.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Oct 7, 2011 at 02:43 PM.
#24
I get ya I get ya. It took me a few minutes to understand what you were talking about before, but I got it. Shinny link matched up with marks on gear, 12:59 on gear = 0 on harmonic balancer. The only think that concerned me is that I had compression up until the harmonic balancer hit 12, and then from 12 to 0, couldn't really feel any, but maybe thats normal, or maybe its just me. I don't know.
I'm concerned about TDC, because I have been having issues that I have yet to be able to solve. Like vibrations and misfires. Its probably clogged injectors.
I'm concerned about TDC, because I have been having issues that I have yet to be able to solve. Like vibrations and misfires. Its probably clogged injectors.
Last edited by giantjoebot; Oct 7, 2011 at 10:49 PM.
#25
I pulled the fuel injectors today. Going to just have them cleaned at a place that I found thats local. Its weird they mainly do work for shops, so its like a little secret in my area. One of the injectors was a little burnt. Hoping its still good. Might be the source of my problems. I'm going to run a different thread on it.
#27
Got the injectors back. No flow chart. Was just told that 2 were good and 2 were bad. They only charged me $40. I guess the guy figured there was much point in continuing after finding 2 bad injectors. I ordered a full set of 4 rebuilt from fiveomotorsports. Talked to the guy on the phone, and he told me that their rebuilds are high quality, low mileage, from a facility thats been doing this for 35 years, and they flow match really well.
The place I took my injectors to be cleaned and tested was Vacavalley autoparts in Fairfield, CA. I don't think I would recommend the place. First the guy starts telling me that he thinks that my problem is probably something else. Then he takes my number, but never calls to tell me they're done. I mean with 2 injectors bad I needed to order new ones, and could have gotten cheaper shipping had I know earlier. When I picked them up, the guy wasn't there, and there were no details. Just 2 bad 2 good.
The place I took my injectors to be cleaned and tested was Vacavalley autoparts in Fairfield, CA. I don't think I would recommend the place. First the guy starts telling me that he thinks that my problem is probably something else. Then he takes my number, but never calls to tell me they're done. I mean with 2 injectors bad I needed to order new ones, and could have gotten cheaper shipping had I know earlier. When I picked them up, the guy wasn't there, and there were no details. Just 2 bad 2 good.
#28
Yeah, doesn't sound very professional.... ALL OF THEM, pretty much, do the same with the injectors.... So WHY NOT just use someone you'll feel more comfy with and have flow charts for their product, thereafter, right?
I run into those guys ALL the time..... They most often have a outward attitude of "Wow, ok, .... I'm going to bless you with my presence now, ..... as well as my work skills"... And, well, tihs is INJECTORS, not Rocket Propulsion! lol.
Anyway, .....If 2 are good.... Did he at least mark the good ones? I would just send those 4 off to witchhunter.com and then when they tell you, "Yep, 2 are good, 2 are history", order 2 INJECTORS from that place, or Fivomotorsports........... (love that name btw! lol) ...... Make sense? I mean, ... Witchhunter might just repair yours for cheap, ya know? Why spend all this money on new ones when 90% of the time these can be cleaned and repaired, Joe, ya know? Totally up to you, obviously... just food for thought.
LCE sells em, too. So does witchhunter.com, as I remember. Also, a place near me sells them, where I walk in to have mine done, "RC INJECTORS", Torrance, CA. RC is a respected racer/Shop owner, and HOLY CRAPULA, Joe, .... that is one thorough/nice/clean/professional place/staff, ya know? lol. Long and short, ...YES, do what YOU are comfy with. It may not be a fortune, ...but it's your money, and "OUR money is NEVER CHEAP!", as my dad used to tell me when I'd ask for it! hahaha.
I run into those guys ALL the time..... They most often have a outward attitude of "Wow, ok, .... I'm going to bless you with my presence now, ..... as well as my work skills"... And, well, tihs is INJECTORS, not Rocket Propulsion! lol. Anyway, .....If 2 are good.... Did he at least mark the good ones? I would just send those 4 off to witchhunter.com and then when they tell you, "Yep, 2 are good, 2 are history", order 2 INJECTORS from that place, or Fivomotorsports........... (love that name btw! lol) ...... Make sense? I mean, ... Witchhunter might just repair yours for cheap, ya know? Why spend all this money on new ones when 90% of the time these can be cleaned and repaired, Joe, ya know? Totally up to you, obviously... just food for thought.
LCE sells em, too. So does witchhunter.com, as I remember. Also, a place near me sells them, where I walk in to have mine done, "RC INJECTORS", Torrance, CA. RC is a respected racer/Shop owner, and HOLY CRAPULA, Joe, .... that is one thorough/nice/clean/professional place/staff, ya know? lol. Long and short, ...YES, do what YOU are comfy with. It may not be a fortune, ...but it's your money, and "OUR money is NEVER CHEAP!", as my dad used to tell me when I'd ask for it! hahaha.
#29
Unfortunately I leave for Oklahoma on Friday. So now its more about time than money. So I already ordered the new injectors. One of the good ones was a little burnt, and he didn't rebuild them. the cost wasn't much higher. $170 for new injectors, vs $100 for clean and rebuild. Of course I ended up getting over night shipping for another $55.
It might cost more, and I'm not getting the best deal, but if you consider what I would have spent taking it to a mechanic its a fraction of the cost. So as long as when I'm done my truck is running well, then I'm going to be happy.
Live and learn. Next time I am defiantly using witch hunter.
It might cost more, and I'm not getting the best deal, but if you consider what I would have spent taking it to a mechanic its a fraction of the cost. So as long as when I'm done my truck is running well, then I'm going to be happy.
Live and learn. Next time I am defiantly using witch hunter.
#31
Sighhhhh... Well I'm leaving Friday for Oaklahoma with my brother, and on Wednesday my Dad calls and says he wants us to take his Lincoln Navigator. I'm pretty pissed off. Still going to finish it before Friday though.
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