I have a 91 pickup fuel injected 22re, and I was thinking about tearing it apart, and replacing the the gaskets and timing chain. I found some good deals on timing chain and head gasket kits. I figure if I do the timing chain, then I'm about half way to the head gasket. From what I have read on here, people say the 22re head gasket isn't to hard to replace. I've never done a head gasket or a timing chain before. Little scared about it, and I'm wondering, how hard is it. Is it something I can get done in a couple of days?

Does anyone have any links for a head gasket how to, besides the fsm. I've found a couple for the timing chain, but haven't found any on the head gasket.

 

here's what i did:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...d-pics-232381/

not necessarily something you can get done in a few days, unless you have all the tools you need and encounter no problems. don't worry about it. the reason people say it's an easy job is because, well, it is. i did it myself for the first time, and have 10k on the re-built motor, so yeah, if you can turn a wrench and read the manual, you can do this repair

 

I was reading through your thread. Is it important to change the oil pump? Or is it just while you're there you might as well sort of thing?

 

yeah, these trucks aren't getting any newer, so it's just a good idea to. likewise, if your oil pump is doing fine, i don't see a reason to replace it.

however, engnbldr.com sells the complete front-end kit with oil and water pumps, and at a good price:
http://engnbldr.com/toyota_ala_carte.htm

 

Wow that really is a good deal.

I'm starting to have second thoughts though. Might be driving 3,000 miles to Oklahoma in about 3 weeks, and if I run into problems like you said, then that would really suck.

but at the same time I don't want to end up breaking down in the Arizona Desert or anything like that, knock on wood.

 

as long as you read and understand what you are doing, you'll be fine. and ask questions. there are lots of people on this site that are more than happy to help you out (myself included)

 

Thanks, thats very reassuring.

 

Hey Joe, ....

The main thing to remember when doing this is to MAKE NOTES AND PICTURES AND LABEL EVERYTHING! As long as you do that, it can be done fairly quickly.

There are many other 'required' procedures involved that aren't really spelled out too well in the books... Such as; Clean the deck of the block and the head, THOROUGHLY, and chase out the head bolt holes as well as you can, as well.

From there it's just a matter of reassembling in the order that you're told, CAREFULLY watching torque values and reading everything twice, just to be CERTAIN that you're not over-torquing anything/haven't forgotten to install the steering pump brace or alternator bracket, etc., etc., in the proper order.

I've been doing this for a LIL while,...nothing excessive or "GURU" like! hahaha... And, well, I assembled my entire long block and installed it within a couple/few days, running fine since, 4K miles or so later(I drive less distance than Irab up there^^ hehehe). If you have a few full days to devote to it, and you follow the instructions, there's no reason you can't get this done within 3-4 days from beginning to end(You can tear down while you're waiting for parts)....

And keep in mind.... it's around 700-800$ to have the HG and Timing Kit done by a professional shop.... MAYBE MORE by some! You can do it for around 180$, yourself, including all new timing kit with water pump, oil pump, steel rails, HG and other gaskets.

The keys to this job, really, are "NOTES, PICS, NOTES, AND MORE PICS AND LABELING" and............ Following instructions EXACTLY!

I've got plenty of info on this in my build, but stick with Ian's, as his is a 93, with a few things a lil different. Try this site as well.............

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

 

Steel guides seem to be the way to go.

I just put a brand new water pump on.

That link above said they use DJ ROCK parts, which I have never heard of before. I'm just trying to do as much oem, equivalent, or better as possible.

I was pissed when I saw my new AISIN water pump was made in Mexico.

 

Sorry, I worked the graveyard shift last night, and was ready to crash when I wrote that last post.

So do you guys have any idea where the DJ ROCK parts are made? The prices are amazing. Just kind of makes me wonder how good the quality of the parts are.

I think I'm going to go for it. I have 3 weeks from today, actually with travel time less than that. So I want to order the parts and get started as soon as possible. I figure if I work on it on my days off, and everyday after work, I should be able to get it done in about 9 days. Thats 4 days off and 5 days after work. What do you think. Should that be enough time?

 

possibly enough time, if you keep at it. i think it'll go faster if you invest in an engine stand and hoist. i didn't, and i regret not getting those tools. pull the engine so you won't have to fuss with the differential or a lot of the head stuff. but you can also do it with the engine in the truck. it's tight, but do-able.

i have never heard anything bad about rock parts. i have them, and while they may not look exactly like the originals, they are still held to the same standards. send ted (the guy at engnbldr) an email, and he'll be more than happy to let you know what stuff you'll need

once you order your stuff, you can start disassembling the engine (radiator, belts, intake, electrical, etc)

one thing i will add is order new head bolts from toyotapartszone.com - genuine toyota parts at lower (than dealership) prices. i broke one (many people have trouble with it), so i needed to order them half-way through my repair

i think that's it for now. you're on the right track. post pics once you start!

 

My truck should be a little easier. 2 wheel drive, no power stering, and no ac. Now that I think about it, that oil pan would be a pain if I had to drop it straight down, which I'm assuming you do.

Unfortunatly I don't have room to store tools like that. I think my uncle might have both, and I could probably buy them from him.

I'm starting to lean towards skiping the head gasket, and just doing the timing chain, and having my fuel injectors serviced. I saw on your final video, you said that the injectors seemed to make the biggest difference on your rebuild. What do you guys think of those cleaning kits that you hook up to the fuel rail, use compressed air, and run cleaner throught the injectors? Might be a little easier, and cheaper.

 

oh, you have 2wd... that makes a huge difference. that means it should be a lot easier to drop the oil pan (which means you can do it easier than i did).

cool.

as for the injectors, i sent them off to witch hinter, wwhere they did all the cleaning, servicing, and testing. not a bad deal, if you ask me.

 

Skipping the HG, Jo, .....well, it totally would depend on a COUPLE things... 1 being how many miles you've got on this thing. Eventually, the HG WILL GO, plain and simple. Just the laws of physics. 2 being the factor of 'possible HG damage when sliding the cover on w/out having removed the head.

What I would do is talk to Tod on the phone at engnbldr or Ted via email..... then give them your miles, mechanical experience, type of use it gets(hauling stuff around all day, etc) and then see what they say about the HG. They might say "Hit it to be sure you got 62# on them all"... But then, after MANY miles, they might not, as cranking them down can actually cause compromise. I'm interested to see what they say. And, well, no offense to ANYONE, ... but those guys have done this 2-3 times a day for 30 years....lol.... Might be worth seeing what they think while you order some parts from em, right? Yes, doing the HG is more work, ....but 9 days should be MORE than enough, especially if you 'PLAN THIS OUT TO THE T', ya know? I would just HATE to see you pass on doing another 5-8 hours work attacking the HG... and then POOF, 3 months later, simply by coincidence, it takes a dive on ya.

The secondary reason I mention this, Jo, is because it's fair to say that this would be your first 22re timing kit job, right? Well, w/out pulling the head, you have to wedge the timing cover back on, sliding it against the HG front portion, getting the corners to seal up, hoping not to compromise the HG's front portion/hoping not to kink it(you can't put the Timing cover right below the head and then slide it upward into place..... there are dowels on the block that won't allow that, on top of the fact that the oil pump has to go STRAIGHT on, over the oil pump drive spline.

Not trying to complicate this, ...just urging you to double think the decision to not pull the head. NOT SAYING you can't do this, that way, PROMISE! lol..... Rather, I'm just pointing out that you increase the odds of something going wrong....something that will drive you NUTS because it can turn into a nasty oil leak, EVEN WITHOUT doing it this way you're thinking(ask me how I know..... haha).

Just trying to get you to do a lil more research on this before you get started.... Cuz once you do, it's a bit difficult to change your mind mid stream/with limited time to do the job. I personally find it far less risky to slap the cover on, ...then head and oil pan.

Just my 2cents... wish you the best either way.

 

Wow, thats really good advice, Thanks. Sorry I was telling a friend of mine, who works on diesel ship engines, what I was planning on doing and he was like, "Don't do it, what if something goes wrong", and it really freaked me out. He's a nice guy, but you guys are right. Might as well. Its not that much more work, I'm going to go for it.

It has 140k on it, and I have to drive it to Oklahoma to train for a new job. I will need the truck for the job, and I'll be taking it to disaster areas. I think it would be best if I got it in the best working order I can possibly manage. I'll order the parts tomorrow. I already ordered a new Denso Alternator and O2 sensor. Got a great price on Amazon. No core deposit, so I can keep my old Alternator.

I guess I never finished posting this earlier, but I found some DIY fuel injector cleaing methods that could save me $100. Take a look and tell me what you think.

http://youtu.be/VFJlTfHyrUk
http://youtu.be/7aT4S1lIBAY
http://youtu.be/0bYXl8pCOcA

 

engnbuilder and witchhunter!!!! its a great combo,also a good idea to have the head cheched for warpage..good insurance.also...i ,if your truck is running O.K now,would wait and take your time,its pretty easy and straight forward,but not something you want to do twice!!!!

 

Well I'm getting random misfires. I think that the fuel injectors are clogged. I'm also getting vibrations, I think due to the misfires. Other than that everything seems fine. I'm worried about the timing chain. Haven't gotten around to checking it yet. going to pick up a torque wrench today, hopefully. they have them on sale at Harbor frieghts, and the past 2 times I've gone there they have been completely out. Hopefully they got more in. I have the next couple of days off. I'll check the chain, clean the fuel injectors using the method in the videos, and go from there.

I was also thinking of getting a Ultra Sonic cleaner to clean the fuel injectors. I figure I could also use it to clean the EGR valve. But I can't figure out what kind of solution to use. Been searching on the internet. I found a fuel injection cleaning place in Sacramento, which is close to where I live, and they said they use a Ultra Sonic cleaner. I have seen people suggest using these, but have not found any solid information as to what solution would clean and be safe.

I guess for the methods in the videos, you have to find out if you're fuel injectors are high or low impedance. Basically what voltage they run on. Does anyone have any idea what the voltage is for 22re fuel injectors? The fsm says to connect them to your battery for testing, so I'm assuming that they are 12 volt.

 

Voltage on the Injectors depends upon years. I believe mine is 5V, can't remember the pattern/pulse rate.... after the Injector Resistor does it's thang! lol. Yours being 91, I'm pretty sure the injectors are a bit different than mine(NOT HUGELY, but definitely diff. in pattern/impedance.. Maybe Ian will know) Best wishes with the injector cleaning.... Just be CAREFUL, and remember.... this is why most use Witchhunter, ..... they get them spotless and almost like brand new in flow, etc., without risking damaging anything. You MIGHT need new baskets, and you will definitely need new o rings and grommets.

 

I'll be the giunea pig, and try it out. Was thinking of going to the junk yard to try and find a test subject and wiring.

I want to try this for 3 reasons
1. I won't have to wait a week to use my truck
2. It looks fun
3. Saves money

I found a chart, in the link below. The fsm says that my fuel injectors are 13.4–14.2 ohm, and according to that chart it would make them high impedance and 12 volt.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/fuelinjectors.htm

I also got a 10ml syringe from CVS, in the Pharmacy. It was free, they just gave it to me. I was even honest and said I was going to use it for my truck. Now I just got to hit radio shack for a switch.

 

Just took the cylinder head cover. Chain and guides are just fine for now. But my TDC seems to be off. Finally found the shiny link, and the timing mark is a little past zero. So I think I will pull spark plug #1 and try that method as well. What do you guys think? Could you some advice asap.

Just tried turning the crank shaft with plug #1 pulled, the one closest to the radiator. Stuck a napkin in the hole, like this video I found said to do. If thats correct, TDC is wayyyy off. The timing mark is over a quarter of the pulley before the zero mark. So what should I do, mark it there? Which one should I go by? shiny Link, the timing mark, or plug #1?