What's up guys? '8822re 4runner bone stock daiy driver. Timing chain wore through the cover at 230,000. It over heated once when the problem was discovered but I shut it down right away and towed it home once I saw the coolant in the oil.Rebuild time. It's all torn apart. Shopping for a machine shop for the head.

Question is: must I machine the block? If so, there are two little alignement pegs at the front and back... How do I remove those?

Any other tips are good too. I can swap any part on a truck including an engine but I've never rebuilt before. (Big difference, I know)

 

Do you need to machine the block 230,000 miles I would say most likely.

The only true way to know is to measure the cylinders . things do tend to go egg shaped .

At most it should be hot tanked so have the machine shop check it out if your unable to measure it yourself

 

Have the machine shop measure your bore and make the recommendation based on the cylinder wear tolerance specs in the FSM. The FSM is easily available through several links - any 22RE pickup will have the same bore wear specs. I have a 1985 FSM that I can Drop Box to you. Just PM me if you want it.

My cylinder wear was within tolerance but I still had it bored out .020 over when I rebuilt mine. It's always a good idea to at least deck the block back to make sure the head gasket mating surface is true and flat - it doesn't typically take much to get it straight. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THOSE ALIGNMENT DOWS YOURSELF! The machine shop will do it for you when they deck the block.

Also make sure you take the main (crank) caps to the machine shop when you have your machining done. They should be installed and properly torqued prior to any machine work on the block. The reason being is that when the caps are installed and torqued they can slightly tweak the geometry of the block - you want your machining to be done with this slight "tweak" because that is what the geometry will be when the engine is assembled. You follow?

If you need any guidelines or help, check out my engine rebuild thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...azx636-261494/

It's a 22R, but all of the short block assembly is the same as a 22RE and most of the head and drive accessory assembly is the same as well.

Engine rebuilds are very easy if you follow the book (FSM). I have rebuilt all kinds of engines from V-Twin motorcycles, to straight 4 racing motorcycles, to big blocks, to volvo diesels, to gutless 22R's and I have never had one fail due to anything I did on the rebuild. Confidence and following the precision in the book is what it takes.

 

I was a mechanic for several years in an independent shop. I too am of the mindset there is nothing a person can't repair with a basic toolset.

However, engine rebuilds take a few specialized tools. Ring compressors and expanders, dial indicators, torque wrenches, etc. all of which can be purchased or rented through most big box auto parts stores. What can't be purchased is the expertise in using them. So my recommendation would be to pay the machine the $150-200 to assemble your rotating assembly. Machinists do this all day everyday, you may do it once in a lifetime.

 

As far as the motor goes, do a google search for engnbldr. Ted's shop specializes in Toy motors and parts. If you are doing a full rebuild, the parts are nearly the same to go bigger.
When I rebuilt my motor after 175k and a compression ring failure on #2 cylinder, I added some extra oomph and was pleasantly surprised. I had the 268C Torkr cam since 80k miles. I added to that a fresh head with oversize s/a valves, .020 oversized pistons and rings, steel guided timing set, and all new pumps. I also sent all 5 injectors to witch hunter for cleaning and balancing.
I think I had about $600-700 in parts and maybe $500 in machine work. I also had a motor that made 15-20% more power across the spectrum.
Well worth the investment.

 

Depends on what you mean by having the block machined? Cylinders bored, yes. Having it decked/line bored, maybe but probably not necessary on an iron block. At 230k a minimum cylinder overbore is just smart.

All you need for tools to assemble a 22RE rotating assembly is a torque wrench and a ring compressor beyond the standard tool kit. Plastigauge your bearings. Torquewrenches can be expensive but ring compressors generally are not on the lower end.

Get your crank checked or check it yourself.

 

Seen you were shopping for a machine shop for the head. A new head can be bought for about $250ish. Heads can have several issues and a shop can fix them. The shop I use charges $30 just to see if it is serviceable. Good or bad you pay the $30. If it is bad you have a $30 junk head. I would not spend a lot on getting the head fixed.

 

I agree with you all, myeself I've never done anything even close to an engine build and if I wasn't sure about it I could probably get someones phone# off here from them and I'm sure they could walk me thru the whole process.