time to go to pick n pull!

 

I have just a "little" to add on the relay issue, some that are not familiar with the internal workings of relay's may not know, 1. If you are hearing the relays click (that does not mean they are good) it means they are getting energized via your key or switch. 2. On these pc boards the relays are all intertwined with each other and I may be wrong about this but I believe it could be possible to have more then one bad relay on these boards at a time. The way the board looked to me they are using more then one relay at a time to transfer between positive and negative to reverse the motors direction?

My Radio shack only had one relay in stock so I had to remove my relays one at a time and bench test them to find the bad one (my window would not go up) in this pic you will see the blue RS relay that replaced my bad one.

If your RS has 4 relay's that you can buy just change all of them, It will only cost you 20 bucks.

If you go to the Radio shack website and search the part number use: 275-005,... 4crawler has on his page that it is 275-005A They must have changed the part No. there is no longer an "A" and you won't find them in the search that way.

They are a pain to get out of the board just as 4crawler has said, I used a solider sucker and they looked clean but would not budge, So pulling wiggling on the relay and quickly moving my soldering iron between the (5) pins they would slowly pull out of the pc board (took me almost 10 min. a relay) . You may also need to take a small drill bit and clean up the holes before you can insert the new relay's.

After you are all done get some silicone spray and clean and spray the rubber molding (In the grove) where the window go's up and down in your cab, this will take some strain off the motor and make it where there is less amperage going trough your new relays, wouldn't hurt to lube all the mechanical workings inside the door also.

 

Ok I'm 90% sure your problem is the lock signal switch in the left tailgate latch. Its a pain to replace and a waste of time to do so for it will go bad again. Ok when you tailgate is open you will see on your left side a white connector. It will be clipped in a hole from the bottom. Thats the connector going to the lock switch. Take it out and bypass the switch by jumping a wire from the 1 pin to the 3 pin. Which is the first and last one. Don't bypass it on the switch side of the connector but the signal power side. Or it should be the right half of the connector. It will then prolly work. If not then look into your swithes and see if you can hear the relay clicking. The click you hear as you turn the key or hit the switch is the relay. Check wires.

 

I wish I knew alot about wiring... I'll probably just end up taking it in to get it operational... the motor is working just fine. when the window cooperates, it rolls up and down at the same speed it came from factory

 

Anyone know where to find a center console switch for the rear window. Toyota wants a little over 100 bucks for one! And oriely didn't have one.

 

Pick N pull...

 

Thanks for your help 4crawler.

 

Cheap fix to "get it operational"

 

OK, I'm just going to jump in here instead of starting a new thread. Should be a simple answer....

My motor whirs away but put VERY little force on the window. I can roll it down using my hand while it's whiring away, and it seems to put just enough force on it to pop it up slightly above the weather stripping so I can grab it and pull it up. Can't seem to be able to budge it with the motor NOT whirring though.

= bad regulator? Anything else it could be? Assuming it is a regulator - where can I find replacement instructions? I can do simple motor stuff, suspension stuff, etc. but power windows have always been a bit of a mystery to me!

Thanks for your help,

Chris

edit: oh, '92 4Runner

 

Might be a stripped gear on the motor. Pull the access panel off and have a look inside at the mechanism and see what is going on.

 

I'm terrified of the friggin' thing! LOL I looked in there but didn't want to start taking things apart before I asked around. I don't know what it is about power windows - they just scare me. Murphy would say that's why that's always what goes wrong with my vehicles!

Will do - that'd be nice if it was just the motor I think. That's probably a pretty standard item I would guess (meaning same motor used for all sorts of Toyota windows)?

Thanks,

C

 

MaK92 - what did you get from Pick N Pull that solved your problem?

I had similar issues a couple of years ago. My window rolled down fine, but up became increasingly intermittant until one day it just didn't go up any more.

The trouble was a relay. The circuit board behind the left rear tail light controls all functions on the back window - window up, down, defrost, wiper & washer. There is a relay on the board for each function. The window up function requires more amps because the motor has to lift the weight of the glass. Often the window up relay gets cooked even while the other relays are still good.

Toyota wanted nearly $300 for a new control board. Pick N Pull had one off a 1990 4Runner for $30. The harness didn't work for my 1993 (crap), but I was able to desolder the relays and swaped the burned relay on my board for a clean one off the 1990 board. Worked like a charm.

The moral of the story, a Pick N Pull control board is a cheap and and easy fix. Just make sure the harness is the same for a direct easy swap. Also, you have a few spare relays if this happens again.

Hope you got her fixed.

WJ

 

I never got anything to fix it. its still broken and doesn't wanna roll up unless its in the mood too lol

 

Well its not going to fix it self. It may feel like it every so often, it may randomly work for weeks and then not work 6 months or its only coming up by beating on the left side of the tail gate which would be the faulty lock switch. Its not going to be cheap to take it somewhere....... but i know its that switch..... is there a backdoor light on in the dash? Is it working when the window is down? Does it flicker randomly?

 

its completely functional... the light is only on when the tail gate is unlocked... never flickers, flashes and is never on unless I keep the tail gate unlocked.

 

Well, I'm not scared of mine anymore. Had it completely apart last night. But for the life of me I cannot figure out what's going on! The regulator seems 100% and the motor seems fine too. I was unable to reproduce the problem when hot-wiring it but I was using a very low amperage source (window still wouldn't go up and down but neither did the motor spin). My theory at this point is that the motor has a clutch in it that's gone out. The clutch doesn't have enough force to roll the window but allows the motor to spin and still put SOME force on the window. I'm going to try a new motor.

Seem plausible?

C

 

I don't think there is any clutch on the motor, could be the gear is slipping on the motor's shaft.

 

Yeah, that'd do the same thing I reckon. Found a motor to pick up tonight - I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Thanks for all your help!

Chris