My 4runner is an 89 3.0, I bought a timing kit for it and I got a spring tensioner for the timing belt.The parts guy says that the hydraulic tensioner started in 90, Hayne's manual says 93.

How can I find out what year my engine is?

 

Why would it not be an 89?

:wabbit2:

 

good luck with that kaptain, i could only narrow mine down to a 4 year period.

 

a 3.0 .. is a 3.0 .. Timing belts , tensioners , and idlers are the same

13540-65010 # for the tensioner 88-95 ..

.

 

Not true. They switched a few thing about 1/2 way through 92. Mainly the change from a spring tensioner to a hydraulic tensioner for the timing belt. The motor that came out of my 92 (MFG date is in February) has the spring and the motor thats replacing it is a hydrulic style out of an 95 4runner.

Is your engine the stock one(why wouldant it be?) Then it should have a spring tensioner.

 

when all else fails, buy both and return the one it isn't

 

I know its a 90 something, I would just like to narrow it down a bit.

 

Hydraulic tensioner

 

toyota EPC lists the above part # from 88-95 so if it is a "change up" it will fit any year 3.0 , and could have been replaced at any time ..
common for the head gasket campaign was to do the timing belt and water pump at the same time


.

 

Wrong. The tensioners, no.1 idlers, and fan pulley brackets are different for 88-8/92 and 8/92-95.
Correct. 8/92 and later have the hydraulic tensioner from the factory.
Right. It's probably an 8/92 or later if it has the hydraulic tensioner. Why does it matter which year it is after that?
True. The 89 doesn't have one from the factory. But it could have one...if someone wanted it to.
Incorrect, you can't put the hydraulic tensioner on the 88-8/92 3VZE. The 88-8/92 no.1 idler pulley is different and would need replaced with the 8/92-95 idler pulley also. And the mounting points for the hydraulic tensioner on the 88-8/92 fan pulley bracket are non-existent. So you'd have to replace it with the 8/92-95 fan pulley bracket too.

88-8/92


8/92-95.

 

So here is the question then. I am about to order up parts to do the water pump, timing belt and associated parts. I have a '92 4runner.

what is the best way to tell if I have the pre 92 1/2 engine with a spring tensioner or the post 92 1/2 motor with the hydraulic tensioner? Any ideas? It would be nice to know before I order parts for obvious reasons

Thanks guys!

 

Go here and put in your VIN:
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/genui...ota-parts.html

Look around and you can find any part on your truck. You should get the correct part number for your vehicle. Call your local dealer with the part number and ask if it's hydraulic or spring. You can order what you need from the link above and get OEM parts at a great price and be sure they are correct for your particular vehicle.

 

Hmm interesting. So it says for water pump I use part number **100-69225, replaced by **100-699475-83. This part number covers years 02/90-08/91 and 09/91 to 08/92. Why they ahve that listed separate for the same PN I have no idea...

Anyway, this leads me to believe I have the pre mid 92 spit model. This kind of makes sense, since my truck was delivered (or made, I forget) in late 1991. I also have the aluminum thermostat housing.

 

A little more research and that is toyota part number 16100-69225

 

What's the story on that? What are the new ones made out of? I know they still fit earlier models, because the old part # is discontinued.

 

Not 100% sure but I heard later 3.0's had plastic ones. Don't hold me to that though.

 

Stomper - "what is the best way to tell if I have the pre 92 1/2 engine with a spring tensioner or the post 92 1/2 motor with the hydraulic tensioner? Any ideas?"


You should be able to see the hydraulic tensioner. It bolts to the passenger side of the fan bracket just above the AC compressor and below the PS pump. Depending what work has been done in the past, even this might be misleading though. My neighbor changed a timing belt on a 3.0 last year that had the hydraulic tensioner, but as he got into it, the belt was actually being tensioned by the spring to tensioner pulley mechanism. You could pull the #3 timing cover and you should be able to see which type you have, then place your parts order.

Also, my '93 3.0 has a plastic thermostat housing.

 

Awesome, thanks Joe. I'm out to check it now.

edit: looks like I have the spring version. The hydraulic deal should be sticking out by the power steering pump bracket, and I have nothing there. Thanks!

 

Yeah, the later trucks have a plastic t-stat outlet. My 89 aluminum outlet is so nicely machined that it doesn't leak when attached with no thermostat or gasket. Don't know about the plastic ones...

For the older style timing idler arrangement, I've found this technique works well:

Position the driver side cam pulley exactly on the mark. Position the passenger cam pulley a half tooth clockwise of the mark (as viewed from the front of the vehicle looking back). Position the crankshaft pulley a half tooth counter-clockwise.

Place belt around driver cam pulley (if using a toyota belt there will be timing marks on the belt). Then route belt under upper idler and around passenger cam pulley. Then position passenger cam pulley exactly on the mark - the belt should now have no slackness between the cam pulleys. Route belt around water pump pulley and then around crankshaft pulley. Position crankshaft pulley exactly on mark - there should now be no slackness between driver cam, water pump and crank pulley. Attach lower idler & spring and tighten mounting bolt so idler is out of the way (spring stretched). Route belt around tensioner pulley, then loosen the adjustment bolt so pulley is free to press against and tension the belt.

To tension the belt, smoothly rotate crankshaft two full revolutions clockwise (viewed from front looking back) TDC to TDC so the spring can tension belt, then torque lower idler to 27 ft lbs, leaving spring in place. Check that the marks on both cam pulleys align with the marks on the backplate. On my veezy, the cam marks do not exactly align with the backplate marks when crank at TDC, but when in the right position, the marked cam tooth is closer to the backplate mark than any other tooth is. (If you used a Toyota belt with timing marks, those will have traveled.)

BTW the fsm seems to suggest you have to remove the cam pulleys to change the belt, but that's not true. Only need to remove them if you're changing the cam seals or removing the heads.

A wobble extension is probably the best tool for changing the upper idler.

While you're in there, if you haven't changed the front main seal in a while, it's a good time to do that.

Some timing belt writeups:
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=186574
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-183911/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...elt-now-90719/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...bution-146629/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...lt-job-122420/
http://www.instructables.com/id/1994...lt-Replacment/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...vations-32812/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...k-3vze-116617/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nkshaft-86259/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-help-134618/

Ideas on making a Pulley Holding Tool - to get the harmonic balancer or camshaft pulleys off or on:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...14#post2924914

 

Speaking of mystery engines, the engine in my truck is not original and all I have is a mechanics receipt from the PO for the engine installation (from a POS mechanic - I have found tons of missing bolts, stripped bolts, and even a SAE bolt just torqued into the heads to hold a cam shaft bearing, FIPG in random places, bent pulleys... grrrr) . Is there anywhere to look up engine info from the engine number stamped into the block?