Removing timing gear from crankshaft
#2
Contributing Member
I pried mine off with 2 big screwdrivers. Put one on each side with the tips behind the gear, pad the block with some rags and push back on the handles. That moved it far enough to get a small puller in there to finish the job.
#3
Registered User
same hear (screwdriver)
but watch it, the oil pump (directly behind the gear, what your prying against) is AL and in theory you COULD crack it.
both the ones ive taken off werent stuck on THAT hard.
but watch it, the oil pump (directly behind the gear, what your prying against) is AL and in theory you COULD crack it.
both the ones ive taken off werent stuck on THAT hard.
#4
ill 3rd the screwdriver trick. also a little fine grit sandpaper on the little key in the crankshaft make it alot easier to get it back on. mostly just enough to remove any burs.
#6
Registered User
well as he specificly didnt say... i suppose it could be either... but the sig lists the 3vze
and the 3vze has an oil pump mounted to the front of the block, then the crank gear, then a retainment washer for the TB, then you have to put on a black plastic cover, then comes the crank pully, then a big arse bolt that needs 180ftlbs.
and this is what happens when you dont get the crank pully on correcly
trust ME i know my 3.slow
and the 3vze has an oil pump mounted to the front of the block, then the crank gear, then a retainment washer for the TB, then you have to put on a black plastic cover, then comes the crank pully, then a big arse bolt that needs 180ftlbs.
and this is what happens when you dont get the crank pully on correcly
trust ME i know my 3.slow
Last edited by snap-on; 05-19-2006 at 08:14 PM.
#7
Registered User
Yep, I should have caught that... I was just feeling like being a smartass for some reason.
I even read the post a few times too. Sheesh, guess I was up too late.
I even read the post a few times too. Sheesh, guess I was up too late.
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#8
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by snap-on
well as he specificly didnt say... i suppose it could be either... but the sig lists the 3vze
and the 3vze has an oil pump mounted to the front of the block, then the crank gear, then a retainment washer for the TB, then you have to put on a black plastic cover, then comes the crank pully, then a big arse bolt that needs 180ftlbs.
and this is what happens when you dont get the crank pully on correcly
trust ME i know my 3.slow
and the 3vze has an oil pump mounted to the front of the block, then the crank gear, then a retainment washer for the TB, then you have to put on a black plastic cover, then comes the crank pully, then a big arse bolt that needs 180ftlbs.
and this is what happens when you dont get the crank pully on correcly
trust ME i know my 3.slow
#10
Fix?
well as he specificly didnt say... i suppose it could be either... but the sig lists the 3vze
and the 3vze has an oil pump mounted to the front of the block, then the crank gear, then a retainment washer for the TB, then you have to put on a black plastic cover, then comes the crank pully, then a big arse bolt that needs 180ftlbs.
and this is what happens when you dont get the crank pully on correcly
trust ME i know my 3.slow
and the 3vze has an oil pump mounted to the front of the block, then the crank gear, then a retainment washer for the TB, then you have to put on a black plastic cover, then comes the crank pully, then a big arse bolt that needs 180ftlbs.
and this is what happens when you dont get the crank pully on correcly
trust ME i know my 3.slow
#11
I can't believe you found an 18 year old thread to post this question in!
I guess that shows how rare this issue is with the crank woodruff key and the timing belt sprocket.
If your crank looks like that, you might be able to just replace the key and the gear and get it going again.
If you have a lot of wear on the crank snout where the balancer sits, you should replace the crank (and balancer).
The damage on the end of the crank is actually more worrisome than the woodruff key and the sprocket.
I guess that shows how rare this issue is with the crank woodruff key and the timing belt sprocket.
If your crank looks like that, you might be able to just replace the key and the gear and get it going again.
If you have a lot of wear on the crank snout where the balancer sits, you should replace the crank (and balancer).
The damage on the end of the crank is actually more worrisome than the woodruff key and the sprocket.
#12
Thank you!!!
I can't believe you found an 18 year old thread to post this question in!
I guess that shows how rare this issue is with the crank woodruff key and the timing belt sprocket.
If your crank looks like that, you might be able to just replace the key and the gear and get it going again.
If you have a lot of wear on the crank snout where the balancer sits, you should replace the crank (and balancer).
The damage on the end of the crank is actually more worrisome than the woodruff key and the sprocket.
I guess that shows how rare this issue is with the crank woodruff key and the timing belt sprocket.
If your crank looks like that, you might be able to just replace the key and the gear and get it going again.
If you have a lot of wear on the crank snout where the balancer sits, you should replace the crank (and balancer).
The damage on the end of the crank is actually more worrisome than the woodruff key and the sprocket.
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voiddweller
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
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