What should I do with the rear?
#1
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What should I do with the rear?
I'm planning on doing a solid axle swap this smmer and plan on using trailgears kit. I already have a 4" procomp stage 2 lift kit front and rear with rear 2" coilspacers, which will be up for sale once swapped. But I dont know what to do with the rear coils, any idea on how to get more lift, with out swapping out to leafs?
#2
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The higher you go, the more offset your rear axle will be with the panhard bar. You will need an adjustable one, or a lengthened one to make it work. This would likely need to be custom done.
The rear kit is only another 600 bucks, any reason you don't wish to go with leaves?
The rear kit is only another 600 bucks, any reason you don't wish to go with leaves?
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The leaves would stiffen my ride alot more, and my first mistake with starting is that this is my daily driver and i want to put it on 40's, a small thing i didnt put into perspective. i guess the leaves will do.
#4
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Well, its not an impossible goal, but you will have a much easier time going to a 40 with leaf springs.
I would suggest you look at either custom toy housings, or full width truck axles to get the tires out board, thus aleiviating the need for a truck that is 30 ft tall,
This will help you keep a softer ride, as you can get springs with less arch to them.
I would suggest you look at either custom toy housings, or full width truck axles to get the tires out board, thus aleiviating the need for a truck that is 30 ft tall,
This will help you keep a softer ride, as you can get springs with less arch to them.
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#8
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Wait, you want to run 40's and you're already getting cheap?
Dude - that's a sure recipe for breakage and dissatisfaction.
x2 for what Ike said. If you REALLY want/need 40's, you need AT LEAST Diamonds, and more like built D60's...
As for your question, Molly has LC coils in hers with the stock links and it's one tippy, unstable SOB. After driving hers, I would NEVER build a truck that way. It either needs longer links (and if you're gonna do that, you should triangulate them and get rid of the panhard, but that means relocating the fuel tank) or leaves IMHO.
I think you've got A LOT of thinking, planning, and moneysaving to do if you want to be happy with how the truck performs after you've put so much work into it.
Dude - that's a sure recipe for breakage and dissatisfaction.
x2 for what Ike said. If you REALLY want/need 40's, you need AT LEAST Diamonds, and more like built D60's...
As for your question, Molly has LC coils in hers with the stock links and it's one tippy, unstable SOB. After driving hers, I would NEVER build a truck that way. It either needs longer links (and if you're gonna do that, you should triangulate them and get rid of the panhard, but that means relocating the fuel tank) or leaves IMHO.
I think you've got A LOT of thinking, planning, and moneysaving to do if you want to be happy with how the truck performs after you've put so much work into it.
#9
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+of course its not gunna ride like a sedan, it is going to feel truck-like becasue it is truck-like, picking the right springs and shocks will make any truck ride fairly smooth
#10
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Ride is going to be pretty irrelevant on 40's...Getting them to ballance will be the biggest trick. After that, you can worry about the springs.
You will want cromoly shafts, without a doubt, in whatever axles you go with...its going to be painfull if you don't
For clarity, almost any other suspension in the world will ride better than early IFS, short of axle bolted to wagon oregon trail style, and i'm pretty sure even those had springs. I'll bet the ride on a wood and steel wheel was a bit of a bitch. Torsion bar toyota trucks ride like donkey dong.
You will want cromoly shafts, without a doubt, in whatever axles you go with...its going to be painfull if you don't
For clarity, almost any other suspension in the world will ride better than early IFS, short of axle bolted to wagon oregon trail style, and i'm pretty sure even those had springs. I'll bet the ride on a wood and steel wheel was a bit of a bitch. Torsion bar toyota trucks ride like donkey dong.
#11
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Ride is going to be pretty irrelevant on 40's...Getting them to ballance will be the biggest trick. After that, you can worry about the springs.
You will want cromoly shafts, without a doubt, in whatever axles you go with...its going to be painfull if you don't
For clarity, almost any other suspension in the world will ride better than early IFS, short of axle bolted to wagon oregon trail style, and i'm pretty sure even those had springs. I'll bet the ride on a wood and steel wheel was a bit of a bitch. Torsion bar toyota trucks ride like donkey dong.
You will want cromoly shafts, without a doubt, in whatever axles you go with...its going to be painfull if you don't
For clarity, almost any other suspension in the world will ride better than early IFS, short of axle bolted to wagon oregon trail style, and i'm pretty sure even those had springs. I'll bet the ride on a wood and steel wheel was a bit of a bitch. Torsion bar toyota trucks ride like donkey dong.
Anything rides better than a wagon btw. They typically had extremely stiff leaf springs.
#12
Contributing Member
95_4MuddinSr5,
For your set up, i'd recomend a couple of things.
First would be potentially to scrap the idea of a full blown kit for the front, and go with a partial kit, such as one from SKY MFG. This is set for a full width conversion and will allow you an easier time of bolting on a d60. This gives you more freedom on spring choice and set up. Those kits will come with hysteer and stuff for toy axles, i'm suggesting a different option.
Second is, if you aren't really too concerned about keeping it all toyota, then get some d60's from a yard, and rebuild with CTM and cromo. Custom Toy housings are the way i will go, as i want to stay comletely toyota, but they are pricey.
Lastly is to forget manual steering, go with a full hydro set up. Running that size tire is going to push the limits of manual steering anyway, and an assist is almost as much as full blown hydro. Look at PSC as they have a bomber kit with everything you need to convert.
The one guy i know running a full hydro set up is running 44's, and can turn the wheel with one finger, at rest.
This set up should allow you to run a relatively low truck, which will help with stability, and should keep a more "streetable" ride to the truck, meaning it won't bounce outrageously, and you certainly won't get death wobble.
For the rear, i'd run a kit, from TG, or marlin maybe, though you'll want to order the rear after you finish the front, so you can get the proper ride height. You'll have to reweld the rear perches, but it won't be too big a deal.
Anyway, best of luck to you, whatever you decide. Be sure to post up some pictures.
For your set up, i'd recomend a couple of things.
First would be potentially to scrap the idea of a full blown kit for the front, and go with a partial kit, such as one from SKY MFG. This is set for a full width conversion and will allow you an easier time of bolting on a d60. This gives you more freedom on spring choice and set up. Those kits will come with hysteer and stuff for toy axles, i'm suggesting a different option.
Second is, if you aren't really too concerned about keeping it all toyota, then get some d60's from a yard, and rebuild with CTM and cromo. Custom Toy housings are the way i will go, as i want to stay comletely toyota, but they are pricey.
Lastly is to forget manual steering, go with a full hydro set up. Running that size tire is going to push the limits of manual steering anyway, and an assist is almost as much as full blown hydro. Look at PSC as they have a bomber kit with everything you need to convert.
The one guy i know running a full hydro set up is running 44's, and can turn the wheel with one finger, at rest.
This set up should allow you to run a relatively low truck, which will help with stability, and should keep a more "streetable" ride to the truck, meaning it won't bounce outrageously, and you certainly won't get death wobble.
For the rear, i'd run a kit, from TG, or marlin maybe, though you'll want to order the rear after you finish the front, so you can get the proper ride height. You'll have to reweld the rear perches, but it won't be too big a deal.
Anyway, best of luck to you, whatever you decide. Be sure to post up some pictures.
#13
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Thanks, everybody. I only want to put my truck on 40s after have a new daily and more fab and planning skills. For now Im going to go with the SAS and put a 4Crawler 1-1/2" BL. and run 37s. but all that info really helped on what I have to do for the future. Thanks.
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