Rebuilt 22re, getting so close....

Last post wouldnt start, what do you know, timing was 180 off.

Now it runs, but not well, and wont idle unless I give it gas. I bought the truck with the engine out, taken apart, and with some notes from the PO. He labeled somethings (very poorly, thanks for pics those who posted vaccum lines) and left some notes. One of his notes was next to the airbox and had something about turning an adjustment screw, but thats it.

SO I unplugged the plug (in pic) that goes to the airbox, and...engine starts, idles, and runs perfect. But what does this do? I dont want to run without this plug if its not good. Does anyone know what kind of adjustment this would be? Can I run without the plug?

I did email him, but still have no response and with his labeling and notes so far I would like some other opinions. Thanks

 

Called Air Flow Meter? Anyone?

 

That is your mass arflow sensor and among other things, it tells your car when to kick the fuel pump on. It also tells your ECM how much air its getting so it can figure the optimum fuel/air mixture for your conditions.

When you unplugged it, it probably is throwing you a code? and putting the car in default mode.. why its running good.. but wont able to get the peak fuel efficency.

In short, running without it wont blow your truck up. It will hurt your fuel eff.

I had mine go bad, and as a result wouldnt turn my fuel pump on. So I bypassed it in the circuit box. Ran great for the 2 months I had it like that till I could get another MAF. Those things are hella expensive.

My guess is yours is the reverse of mine, the circuit in it that controls the fuel pump works but the AIR flow meter is damaged and messing up the air/gas mixture readings for your computer. My suggestion, go grab one from a boneyard for like 40 bucks and throw it in.

Your truck not running well and a bad idle, which both go away when you unplug the MAF seems to suggest its actual airflow sensor is shot or giving inaccurate info to your comp. RUn without it.. just dont expect great gas milage as your trucks ECM is in default mode.

 

wow somehow I explained myself like 3 times in there. I think Ive got part-timers.

Anyway, hope that helps.

 

YOu can't drive the truck without it hooked up, the truck will not rev. Sounds like you need to get a new one.

 

Thanks so far. As I messed with it some more, it will not run at all with it unplugged. Very odd. I also noticed now that my timing is off more than it was before, using a timing gun, and just moving the distributor I can't get the pulley mark to 5*.

Anyone got an extra working Mass Airflow Sensor?

 

I have this one that I got at the junk yard for 25$
I have not tested I bought it to try to complete my efi set up. 25$ shipped

 

Is there any way to test mine to make sure this is the problem?

If not, cymon I'll take it.

 

Ok, sorry for confusion on my part. I have never run without it simply unhooked, I have bypassed it at the circuit.
You can try it.. if your up for it.
Im posting pictures to help, but if you go to your dignostic box located on the pass side of your engine bay by your fuse box.. and connect fp+ to +b and see if it runs and drives.

2 pictures. The diagnostic box is the little grey guy.



Just to let you know, my situation was it would not start up or would for about a 1second and die. I eventually narrowed it down to the MAF, tested it with a multimeter and then found a way to bypass it. Not exactly the same, but I hope my test will help you.

I eventually replaced the whole maf, but did drive it for about a month with it bypassed. Had to track one down from a boneyard took awhile where I lived at the time. New ones are hella expensive.

 

Sounds as if he did this:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cation-142987/

 

you should be able to find it in the factory shop Manual
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post50369852

 

You can ohm it out in place according to fsm specs using a volt/ohm meter. The connectors from left to right are labeled: Fc, E1, E2, Vb, Vc, Vs, THA.

Resistance between E2-Vs should be 20-400 ohms.
Resistance between E2-Vc should be 100-300 ohms
Resistance between E2-Vb should be 200-400 ohms.
Resistance between E2-THA should be between 10-20 kilohms if it's freakin cold(-4F), 4-7 at 32F, 2-3 at 68F, .9-1.3 at 104F, and .4-.7 at 140F

Resistance between E1-Fc should be infinity.

If any of these are out of whack replace your AFM. Get a used oem one, new aftermarket AFM's, in my experience, will crap out on a first run.

 

You could be a tooth off now...

Just lift out the distributor and move it one tooth and put it back in.

 

I had a similar problem with mine. Even though mine is turbocharged, it still acts the same. First get your timing set correctly, set cylinder 1 at tdc, then take the dizzy out and make the rotor point to the #1 plug wire, about 10-11 o clock. Then what you need to do is make sure you have NO air leaks between the Air flow meter ant the throttle body. the suction of the motor opens up the flapper in the box, and accounts for air that way. If you have a leak, it will be reading one amount, and receiving a different amount. I have found they are VERY picky about this. Go over your couplers and make sure all are in good condition. I had some cracks in mine, fixed those, now it runs great. Hope this helps man!