I need a show of hands if any.. has any one actually had a water pump fail on a 22r ?
I replaced mine a month ago after the pump started to leak from the lower weep hole but it still worked fine just leaked a little coolant.

at the same time I replaced the Tstat with a 192 truck has been running fine until last week I ran into a friends house and left the truck running for the dog when I came out it was getting close to the top of the temp gauge. I drove a mile and it dropped back to normal temp.

last night my alt went out not really out but the white wire had corroded and had come undone to my dismay I found this out while I was moving a load of my stuff out to the storage barn my light kept getting dimmer so I turned off everything I did not need and used a 3cell mag light the last mile.

so back on track

today I pulled my alt and got another one from auto zone "lifetime warranty"= free replacement the alt was still fine would be my guess but the bearings where a little noisy so the guy at the counter did not even want to test it he just grabbed another one for me and I was on my way.

I had to remove the lower rad hose to get it out and this is where all my problems started I got air in the system, I tried to burp it after I got everything closed back up it bubbled and spewed coolant all over I thought I had got it all but it got hot real quick so I pulled the truck up on a steep incline a little more air came out but not much.got it back up to running temp and it started too climb up over the normal spot, on my after market gauge it was reading 190 it is located in the drain plug on the drivers side.


so I pulled my T-StAT boiled it up to 206 it opened at close to 200 202 the water was climbing at a degree every few seconds so when I hit 195 I had very little time to slow the water temp down,
so I drilled a 1/8 inch hole into it just to be on the safe side I also bought a new fan clutch witch is going in tomorrow,
when the temp rises I find it only drops when I am on the highway or at 3500 rpms at idle it will climb up.

I really hope that the fan clutch is the problem and not the pump or head gasket.


but has anyone else ever had their water pump go bad where it stopped working completely ???

and what sucks the most is I got a call to go mudding tonight and I had to turn down the offer

 

the original on mine lasted 188k miles, and i replaced it cuz i had everything already taken off, and it was still functioning fine

 

some one wreked my truck befor it was mine and broke 2 fins off the fan blade so in turn it threw out the water pump bearings and it still works, changing both soon but still works. 148kon the ticker

 

Is your shroud on? Mine did that when it was off

 

the shroud only makes suction to pull air through the radiator

whether or not the shroud is on should not affect the fan blades themselves whatsoever theoretically or the water pump bearings for that matter

 

yeah mine would only get hot when i was idling or under load because not enough air was getting through the
radiator to cool it off...

 

Nothing like a thread hijack to confuse / muddle the conversation.

anyways, back on topic:
What you're experiencing "sounds" like a faulty fan clutch, but you can't completely rule out a failing water pump. But I'd think that running hot at idle and not while driving means that the coolant is circulating and the problem lies with getting the heat out of the radiator. Having the vehicle move forward (a.k.a. driving it) will do that since it's forcing air across the radiator.
BUT... having the thermostat stuck partially open (closed, whichever) could cause a situation where at idle, the water flow is too low causing an overheat situation but when engine RPM's rise, there's enough coolant flow (due to the increased water pump speed) to circulate the coolant fast enough to cool the engine down. AND... my experiences have shown that letting the thermostat become 'dry' can cause it to stick. Meaning, that the t-stat worked great for a month, but that little bubble of air that settled at the stat caused it to dry out and whatever deposits were there suddenly became an interference to its operation. Hope that makes sense.

Someone above mentioned the shroud and that is a possibility but not a huge contributor unless the shroud is completely missing in which case the fan would circulate some of the hot air instead of pulling as much cool air as possible across the radiator.

 

yeah mine would only get hot when i was idling or under load because not enough air was getting through the
radiator to cool it off...

 

well I got the fan clutch replaced today took 20 min
and I do have the fan shroud on ,I let it run for 30 min tonight and the temp stayed at 190.

you could also hear the fan sucking air again not like my 4runners v6 but you could hear it.

so fingers crossed that it is fixed I also drove into town and back with no rise on the temp gauge above normal level.
drilling the hole in the stat made a difference also I think it seemed to take longer to warm up but that also my be that the fan is now running the way it is supposed to.

the fan clutch was the original 22 year old and 196k mile one so it was about time to replace it.

knowing my luck I foresee a starter going out some time soon

 

late up to date I either have a crack in the head or the gasket blew (exhaust is definitely leaking into the coolant) my not having cash at the time and trying to do it on the cheap and should have bought new head bolts but did not is now paying off great.

I also tried to torque the head bolts a little further but they would not go any further.
this sucks this motor should only have 50k on it.

looks like I am rebuilding it one part at a time