So I have been running good the last few days. Issue I’m having is I am running around town and all is good. Once the truck has been going 60-80mph a while 30min or so the next start up it may idle rough. I can hit the gas through it and it will recover and all is good but it idles like it wants to die after start up.

it does this about every 2 or 3 warm starts.

On a cold start up it works well. No issues. Idles like it should.

 

Any ideas ?

 

Have you cleaned the throttle body? I know that has helped many 22REs with your issue.

Hopefully a V6 pro will chime in.

 

I have that too on my 86 22RE. Cold starts fine, but after the truck warms up and sit for 15 to 45 minutes, it will start with a very rough idle. If it sits longer it's no so bad I think it's starting in a "flooded" condition from a leaky injector or cold start injector. Had it before about 25 years ago. They replaced the cold start injector. I am going to check it and the temp sensor when it warmer outside in Spring.

What I do now is press the gas pedal to the floor to put the truck in flooded mode, no fuel pump while cranking, and it seems to help.

 

So my issue is only on warm start up. Which I don’t do to often. My drive to work and home is 8 miles. Someone wrote a similar post on another forum and found it to be the fuel pressure regulator.

Hows that sound. What could be wrong with that thing ?

 

It could well be the FPR. That thing has two settings for pressure. Under normal conditions, it maintains a lower pressure than the fuel pump can provide. Say the fuel pump produces 40 PSI. During normal operation, the FPR maintains 35 PSI.

HOWEVER, during heat soak conditions, the VSV connected to the vacuum line going in the top of the FPR, removes the vacuum applied to the FPR, and it allows the full pressure of the fuel pump to be applied to the fuel rails. This helps prevent bubbles forming inside the fuel rails from the heat. Injectors and bubbles just don't play well together.

There's a diaphragm in the top of the FPR that controls the pressure the FPR maintains. That diaphragm has been known to separate from the seal, thus failing to set the correct pressure of the FPR.

That's how it could be the FPR.

Does that help?
Pat☺

 

Dude !

Yes very helpful. I’m thinking after 27 years mine has quit.

Do Toyota parts from that era last forever ???… no they last about 25 years. Ask me how I know.

Doest look like it comes off without removing intake ?
is it just threaded in there. No special amount of turns or settings ? Remove old one spin in new one ?

 

1) Yes.

2) Yes, just threaded in. Just make sure to only torque it as specified in the FSM, so that the crush washers don't deform excessively. Also, make sure the vacuum port sticking out the top lines up to where the old one was, so that the vacuum line goes on correctly.
​​​​​​​ALWAYS use a new crush washer(s) when screwing things like that down. Never, ever re-use them. Even if you just screwed something down onto a crush washer hand tight, realize you forgot to do something, and take it off, new crush washer.

Note: Have spare washers always! If you don't have more than you need for the job, you'll end up with a situation where you're just going to put on the last crush washer, and it will maliciously, and with willful intent, leap from your hand, fall down through the engine compartment, and magically vanish before it hits the ground. It's incredible to think of, I know, but it happens every time. If you have more than enough washers, it never happens. Go figure.

Have fun!
Pat☺

 

When my 3.0 was having warm start issues it was the fuel pump itself.