W56 Transmission Help
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
W56 Transmission Help
hello all, I’m new to working on Toyotas myself, I’ve worked on them here and there when my dad owned it but before now it was my dads baby. He’s owned it since 1995 or so. He couldn’t do it any more so he gave it to me instead of getting rid of it.
I acquired a 1990 Toyota pickup 22RE 4x4 with a w56 transmission from my dad a few months ago.
one day drive home from work I went to down shift as I pressed in the clutch I heard a pop, I put it in gear but it wouldn’t go anywhere, I coasted into a parking lot and had to get it towed back to the house.
When the truck was started you could put it in any gear without the use of the clutch and the truck wouldn’t die or move forward. There was some sound from from around the clutch / transmission when I did this, the higher the gear the louder the noise.
The noise went away when you pressed in the clutch, so I and the majority of the people I talked to figured it was the clutch.
Which brings me to today, I’ve replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, fly wheel, pilot bearing, thrust bearing, fork, master cylinder, slave cylinder. Bled the system, I now have the transmission back off the truck because I have the same symptoms I started with.
Now I’m currently looking into the input shaft bearing but I’ve never done anything with the internals of a transmission and I have limited resources when it comes to them.
this is a video I shot of early today, after I got access to the bearing. https://youtube.com/shorts/oxyCnDzjL04?feature=share
I acquired a 1990 Toyota pickup 22RE 4x4 with a w56 transmission from my dad a few months ago.
one day drive home from work I went to down shift as I pressed in the clutch I heard a pop, I put it in gear but it wouldn’t go anywhere, I coasted into a parking lot and had to get it towed back to the house.
When the truck was started you could put it in any gear without the use of the clutch and the truck wouldn’t die or move forward. There was some sound from from around the clutch / transmission when I did this, the higher the gear the louder the noise.
The noise went away when you pressed in the clutch, so I and the majority of the people I talked to figured it was the clutch.
Which brings me to today, I’ve replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, fly wheel, pilot bearing, thrust bearing, fork, master cylinder, slave cylinder. Bled the system, I now have the transmission back off the truck because I have the same symptoms I started with.
Now I’m currently looking into the input shaft bearing but I’ve never done anything with the internals of a transmission and I have limited resources when it comes to them.
this is a video I shot of early today, after I got access to the bearing. https://youtube.com/shorts/oxyCnDzjL04?feature=share
#2
Registered User
Not an transmission person, but that sounds like an internal transmission issue. A pop sound, then it wouldn't go anywhere in any gear and still doesn't? Doubt it's a bearing. Drop it and remove the shifter plate to look in to it for any broken parts or rotate it about to have parts fall out. That's what I would do next.
Last edited by JoeS; 04-11-2022 at 06:12 AM.
#3
YT Community Team
That play in the input shaft is ok. When the front bearing retainer is reinstalled it'll stop that movement.
The transfer case isn't in neutral, is it?
The transfer case isn't in neutral, is it?
The following users liked this post:
JoeS (04-11-2022)
The following users liked this post:
JoeS (04-12-2022)
#7
YT Community Team
Not a hard transmission to rebuild. FSM is helpful.
I used a basic puller set. I did need to get creative with some threaded rod to extend the jaws on a few bearings.
There's some reasonably priced kits with Koyo and Naichi bearings. Marlin Crawler has always been competitively priced on their bearing kits. The 4wd application has one bearing that the 2wd doesn't use. (rear output bearing) Marlin Crawler kits most likely has it. Just check. Many of the basic W56 kits on the internet don't include it.
The only tedious part is the snap rings. Most come in different thicknesses, and you won't know the correct thickness until you press the new bearing on. The FSM has specific ways to measure for the snap rings, but I think the general rule is get the tightest one that'll fit.
The synchro's from Toyota are pretty durable. as long the teeth are in good shape, and the inside grooves are still good so the synchro floats on the hub, they should be fine to reuse.
I used a basic puller set. I did need to get creative with some threaded rod to extend the jaws on a few bearings.
There's some reasonably priced kits with Koyo and Naichi bearings. Marlin Crawler has always been competitively priced on their bearing kits. The 4wd application has one bearing that the 2wd doesn't use. (rear output bearing) Marlin Crawler kits most likely has it. Just check. Many of the basic W56 kits on the internet don't include it.
The only tedious part is the snap rings. Most come in different thicknesses, and you won't know the correct thickness until you press the new bearing on. The FSM has specific ways to measure for the snap rings, but I think the general rule is get the tightest one that'll fit.
The synchro's from Toyota are pretty durable. as long the teeth are in good shape, and the inside grooves are still good so the synchro floats on the hub, they should be fine to reuse.
The following users liked this post:
JoeS (04-12-2022)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post