So I’m kinda stumped, I was planning on doing some heavy maintenance on my 91 22RE. Replacing the timing chain, water pump, oil pump, etc. the local machine shop wanted $400 to do the factory head on my truck and said it would take roughly 1-2 weeks. That’s kinda a problem since this is my daily driver and only vehicle. So I bought a new head that came with the new valves I camshaft and rocker arm assembly The problem is I decided to check the fit of the rocker arm rack in the head before I started to tear into this project this weekend, and I’ve discovered that the rockers aren’t lining up with the cam lobes 100%. The first three (starting from the front) were spot on perfect but the rest of them from that point on, not so much. I guess my question is can I reuse my old camshaft and valve rack from the old head and just swap out the old rockers for these new ones.

 

You could get some appropriate washers/shims and set the rockers over true. That is assuming, of course, that doesn't set the tappet heads askew on the valve stem tops.

Yes, you should be able to re-use your old rocker assembly and cam, If inspection shows them not to be worn or scored.

Your new head will never be the equal of a competently rebuilt genuine Toyota casting. Those cheap junk heads are not worth what you pay for them.

If your old head is not corroded, has sound cam bearing surfaces, and genuine Toyota exhaust valves in it, I'd pay a moderate sum to have it shipped to me.

 

I’ll have to think about that one. I was honestly thinking about having it machined after I got mine back together as a “just in case” kinda thing. My question is what makes the new head junk compared to one from the Toyota factory. The valves and everything appear to be the same.

oh and the head I’m removing from my engine is completely stock all original. Everything about my engine is 100% OEM and has 160,000 miles on it.

 

A piece of broken glass sometimes shines just like a diamond ring too.

You are already experiencing issues pertaining to the dimensional integrity of some of your slave labor made parts

Then, we might speak some about the metallurgy of those parts; in light of things like fatigue in springs that cycle thousands of times an hour, and exhaust valves that must operate at continuous dull red heat.

 

I highly recommend using the old camshaft and rocker assembly. Used OEM is a ton better than those cheap Chinese ones. I’d probably recommend pulling their valves and springs off, too, and putting your OEM ones on.

 

I don’t have the tools needed to remove the springs and valves.

 

The old valves would have to be ground and lapped to the new heads' seats, in any case.

 

I bought one of those Inexpensive heads loaded. Cam, valves, etc. My old OEM head was warped too much to save.
After installing it just ate the hell out of the cam lobes within 100 miles. At first I blamed myself, but the more I dug into the issue, along with evaluating the various components I started to feel differently. I too had some alignment issues with the rockers on the lobes. I made a few conclusions:
1. I think the cam they include is too soft. So I got a OEM one from a pick your part yard.
2. The valve springs they used felt way too stiff compared to my OEM ones. Granted the OEM were used, but still
3. The valve spring retainer on the aftermarket heads were thicker than the OEM, as was the washer that sits between the bottom part of the spring and the head. The valve itself had a much thicker lip. What concerned me about all those thicker parts was it just made the spring even stiffer, as it was compressed in a slightly smaller area.

so, I went to AutoZone and borrowed the tool to compress valve springs. I took out the cheap springs and valves, then lapped in my used OEM valves; reassembling with the used OEM springs, retainers, etc. Solvent tested it to make sure the valves were sealing ok and reassembled everything. I was so paranoid that I removed the valve cover every 50 miles or so and inspected for wear. After 250 miles I figured I was ok.

 

It is a good idea to use a ZDDP (zinc) supplement added to the motor oil when breaking in new cams and rockers.

It promotes quick burnishing of the wear surfaces so that they do not scuff and fail prematurely.

Most modern gasoline spec motor oils have reduced zinc levels because combusted zincs eventually foul catalytic convertors.

Many modern engines use roller tappets instead of flat tappets to mitigate the bad effects of lower zinc oils.

Lower zinc oils seem to do OK after initial break in, but Some extra ZDDP in rebuilt engines' break in oil is good insurance.

 

I had added ZDDP to the oil for the break in. I talked with some of my old techs and they asked me if I had any issue with the Aftermarket head. When I told them about the cam wear they told me that had seen similar cases; two with bad wear, and one cam that broke in half.
if I had to do it over again, I’d go to the wrecking yard, pull the head on a 1994-95 22RE and go from there.

 

Bought an ENGINETECH CH1072N complete cylinder head 39 months ago for my 92 22RE engine that had about 198,000 miles. Used the old rocker assembly on the new head. No problems what so ever.

 

Friend of mine said that it didn’t look like the cam journal was properly seated, if that was the case wouldn’t the new cam not spin freely?