hey guys. wondering how many of you think or know you have had vapor lock issues with a 22re? ive noticed a few times lately here in south Louisiana that after my trucks been sitting out in the sun all day, and I go to start her, she is hard to get started. will fire up after a few too many seconds of turning and then usually dies, I have to do this sometimes 3 or 4 times before she starts up fine. again, this only happens when its been in the sun on a 100+ degree day. after shes started all is well again. I was under the impression fuel injected motors couldn't get vapor lock but that's sure what it seems like.

 

I don't have personal experience with the 22re, but like the 3VZE, the 22re has a fuel pressure-up system. http://web.archive.org/web/201501160...ne/41fuelp.pdf Its purpose is, you guessed it, to address vapor lock. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/...taTech/h22.pdf So Toyota certainly thought that vapor lock was still a (possible) "thing."

So what do you do? Well, I'd try to park it in the sun (or however you regularly get this problem). Then, before I tried cranking it, I'd run the fuel pump for 10 seconds via the FP pin on the diagnostic connector. If you have a vapor bubble, this should push it through the system into the fuel return line. (You might even be able to hear it going through the FPR.) If that improves things, you might be having vapor lock.

What then? I'd run through the diagnostics on the FPU system; that's what it's there for, so you might just assure that it's working. Note also that the fuel pump has a check valve. As noted in the article above, part of the purpose of that check valve is to keep pressure on the rail to discourage vapor formation. I don't think that's YOUR issue, as the spec on the check valve is for it to hold pressure for about 5 minutes. Your problem shows up after "all day."

If none of that works, well, there's always relocating to Seattle.

 

good info, thanks for the links. I have taken the obvious solution, which was to not park in the oven if at all possible. this is not my DD so its not a big deal, but I had never experienced this issue before and it caught me off guard a little because, to be honest, my truck runs great and is in pretty good mechanical condition. like I said, usually if I give it a few pumps on the gas and turn it over a few times it goes away and its only on the REALLY hot days, after sitting on the black top and in direct sun. I did visit seattle this year, I enjoyed the weather but I cant deal with the hipsters.

 

Okay, THAT should do nothing on a fuel injected vehicle. We learned "pumping on the gas" back in the carburetor days. Pumping the gas worked the accelerator pump, which would richen-up the mixture and help start a cold vehicle.

Pumping the gas on a fuel injected vehicle does nothing to the injector on-time, so should have no effect.

 

let me clarify, when its starts sputtering up I give it some throttle to clear out the vapor lock.

 

There is a related TSB that gives updated part numbers for the temp switch in the FPU system, it's a discontinued part however.

 

Next time it does it. Temporarily unplug the cold start injector plug and see what happens. Test the ECU water temperature sensor too...not the temperature sensor for gauge.

 

Could be temperature related or ECU not receiving accurate temp reading?
I had this issue before. Last thing I did that solved it was cleaning all temp sensors and cold-start injector timer switch, THEIR MOUNTING THREADS AND PORTS THEY SCREW INTO THE BLOCK down to bare, shiny metal. Should be done at least once every 32 years
CSI timer switch and other temp sensors with only 1 wire going to each get ground through electrical contact with the engine block.

 

thanks. sounds like a good project for when it gets cooler outside. the cooling system is one of the things I didn't really touch when I did my resto, because it was so clean, but its due for some new hoses, might tackle it all when I do the temp sensors. like I said this is a rare occurrence, but it is annoying when it happens.

 

that is one way (and probably the correct way) to make this happen. however, if the vehicle is a 5-speed, and the clutch start feature works properly (along with the clutch start cancel button), you can accomplish the same thing without using a jumper in the diagnostic port, and can do it from the driver's seat; no need to even raise the hood.

simply make sure the parking brake is set, the transmission is in neutral, and do NOT push in the clutch pedal. turn the key to the start position and hold it there for 5 to 10 seconds - the starter will not engage or turn, yet the fuel pump will run during those 5 to 10 seconds. you can then, without releasing the key from the start position, push the clutch start cancel button, and the starter will operate. alternatively, rather than pushing the button, you can push the clutch pedal down for the same effect, ie, the starter will then operate and engage.

wally

 

I do have a w56 and the clutch start / cancel button does work, in fact I use it all the time. that's a pretty cool trick to get the fuel pump on, never considered that. thanks!

 

If you have fuel pressure gage like Wally2 and I have, also check that FPR VSV is working:

When FPR diaphragm is exposed to atmospheric pressure, FP goes up. When exposed to intake manifold vacuum, FP goes down.