I've been having problems with my 3VZE power steering pump.

My dad recently passed on his transition year '89 4Runner SR5 to me because he just got a low-mileage, straight-axle 1985 EFI Ext. Cab to build -- lucky dog. Anyway, he'd been having some troubles crop up with the power steering unit leaking on him, maybe some 5,000 miles ago.

He eventually just got tired of putting fluid in it and didn't want to have to spend $$$ fixing it, so being a muscular dude, he was just running it dry, maybe for the last 500-1,000 miles before he gave it to me, maybe more. I've driven it dry for maybe 300 miles.

Yesterday, I jacked it up and bled the power steering system, but was still getting some bubbles in the fluid when I called it quits (didn't replace the fluid because ... there wasn't any). However, I couldn't find any big bad leaks when I bled the system, so I'm guessing it's a slow leak -- probably from the gaskets in the pump itself. The unit doesn't make any noise without fluid, and hasn't been making too much with fluid in, and it works OK with fluid in.

So ... I read this invaluable 3VZE power steering pump rebuild thread by bugs1961, along with taking a look at the FSM here and decided that would be the way to go, IF the rebuild would work. It's only some $27.00 for the kit from ToyotaOEMParts.com.

I've heard varying opinions on whether running a pump dry is harmful or not. Some say if it's been run dry, the pump shouldn't even be remanufactured. Some say, with the way the "new" pumps are designed, it's no big deal.

So, should I throw $200 on getting a new-remanufactured pump dropped in, or should I spend a day rebuilding the run-dry OEM pump for $30?

 

Hey man, it seems like you know what youre doing with the search button, glad to see that.

After reading this, i would definately say to go ahead and try to rebuild it. For $30 if it works, great, if not, its only $30. I replaced my pump right before the rebuild thread came out so i had to buy the new one...that thing was crappin' expensive!

 

If you're getting bubbles according to my wrench the air valve may have failed, if it fails the engine vacuum can suck the fluid up into the engine according to him. ... they are like $80 to replace. You can check it by taking a piece of vacuum hose and looping the two prongs together just connect the two vacuum hoses to each other as well. I picked up a valve from the wreckers for about $5. If the loop check shows the valve to be the source of my leak I'll switch it around with the other if not I guess I'll be rebuilding my pump too.

 

I had the same problem about a year ago and was not about pay $100.00 for an air value so I found out they fit from many toyota`s I got one from a previa van at you pick auto parts for like $3 .

 

Here you go. I just saw this and it explains quite a bit.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...riteup-183622/

 

Would running with the pump dry for an extended period, like mine, have increased the probability that the air control valve has gone -- due to the fact that the whole system has basically just been sucking air for some thousands of miles?

And ... where exactly would the ATF get sucked into the engine? I'm a beginner at this, and I had no idea the power steering system fluid was even susceptible to the engine vacuum ... I thought it made it's own complete circuit to the gearbox and back.

I know that bubbles means there's air in the system, but the FSM only talks about bleeding the system to get rid of the air ... but I guess if the valve is gone and the air can't get out, the bubbles will stay. In conclusion, I should go ahead and replace the air control valve while I'm rebuilding the pump? Because I KNOW the pump is leaking -- it's all covered in gunk.

Mainly, I was just worried that I'd go to all the trouble of rebuilding the pump ... only to find out the pump hardly even works because running it dry basically destroyed it, or go through the trouble of a rebuild just to have it crap out on me shortly after.

Any more thoughts on running with a dry pump for a long time and what that actually does to the pump?

 

There is two vacum lines that are hooked too the air which is screwed into the power steering pump if it is bad vacum will suck atf out of the pump and into the engine, That most likely looseing the atf .

 

bump

still not resolved

 

93runner223,

Turns out my pump runs great.

Got together with my brother-in-law (welder, builder) and his buddy ('yota-sage) and took a serious look at some of my problems. Had to replace my idler arm (it was way sloppy) and I did both tie-rod ends and finally got an alignment. The fact that I had to always steer to the left or else fly off the road was putting too much continual strain on the system, building up pressure, and pushing a little fluid through the old seals/gaskets, at least that was our best guess.

After that, we tried to find a leak from the pump, but there weren't any that we could see. Using standard Walmart Leak-Stop power steering fluid, I spent about a week checking and filling the fluid while the system bled out all the air from running it dry for so long.

It still leaks, but just a little tiny bit. I usually check it every 2-3 weeks and refill the little bit that's gone. And I drive about 500 miles a week.

So hey, 3vze power steering pump WILL NOT DIE if you run it dry, even for 1,000s of miles. It still works fine, doesn't even make noise. Gotta love that Toyota engineering. My brother-in-law was really surprised. He's a Jeep guy.

I plan to just change to a heavier Dexron III fluid when (after many months) I run out of fluid and the fluid level in my pump starts getting low.

Check this post by sb5walker (5th from top) for some great suggestions on fluids:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...pgrade-191783/

 

Up date on my PS problem... turns out the air valve had failed and the pump was pressurizing the vacuum line blowing the fluid into the engine...

I discovered this by pulling off the vacuum hoses and looping the two prongs together... it kept blowing off even though it should not have... screwed in a new (salvaged) valve... filled the system again and viola after bleeding everything worked great... I ran it dry for at least 1800km and low for about 5k before that...
so far since repairing I 've done about 2k and there are no particular issues fluid still looks nice and red and level is stable.

 

ya mine steers to the right also thus having to hold left to correct and i just did the relay rod recall and they said they werent going to align it because of worn parts. i was thinking just buy new bushings for the idler arm? or would the autozone special be a better path?

 

Just finished a HG due to heat near the crossover and noticed the PS Pump is leaking at the rear plate. When you guys test the air control valve by looping the prongs together are you saying the valve is bad if the air hose comes off the valve or pops off when you start the engine?

I think I am going to try a rebuild of the PS pump but want to know if a new air valve is needed.

Thanks.

 

My pump leaks from the back plate and makes alot of noise (I just installed it and have only driven it around the block a couple times). Would the leak cause the noise /air in the system? Im trying to decide whether to by the seal/rebuild kit from autozone and fix the leak or replace my whole pump...to bleed the sytem i jack the front tires, remove the cap, and turn L and R? Anyone have any experience with the power steering with the additives to make them run quieter? Im selling the truck and the noise is driving me crazy. Especially since I JUST rebuilt the motor and it sounds great, except its a little hard to enjoy with the power steering pump. Any help would be appreciated...

 

Hello there I just bought a rebuild power steering pump and a brand new air valve also brand new pressure line. I already installed everything. But there's power steering fluid getting sucked into my air box. Is it the air valve or the pump??? 1989 v6 3.0