Truck maintenance
Mar 2, 2019 | 01:21 AM
#1
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Truck maintenance
In a couple months I’m getting stationed back in the states where my truck is located. However it has sat for a year and only driven a hand full of times in about 5 years because of being stationed elsewhere. Once I get back I’m gonna change the coolant and thermostat, brake fluid, clutch fluid, pcv valve, battery and alternator, front shocks. Is there anything else I should look at or replace? I really want this truck to last as long as it can. Any help is appreciated. And it’s a 1988 TP 2.4L 22R-E
Mar 2, 2019 | 03:32 AM
#2
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From: San Francisco East Bay
I don't have much experience with vehicles sitting for a long time, but I think I'd get rid of all the gas in the tank. Siphon out as much as you can. Disconnect the fuel return line from the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and run a line to your "slops" gas container. Then run the pump with the diagnostic port until you get an air bubble. Then replace the fuel filter. (using this method avoids disconnecting a high pressure fuel connection, where you'd have to replace the crush washers. The disadvantage is that if there is crud that can get through the filter, it goes through the fuel rail to get to the FPR.)
Mar 2, 2019 | 07:30 AM
#4
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From: PNW
Oil especially and filter. Pretty much all your fluids. Power steering, diff, trans.
Fuel inj cleaner would be helpful after draining fuel. One that also removes water as that length of time in storage allows water and moisture to accumulate.
Cooling system flush cleaner through radiator and plenty of distilled water
Check that parking brake hasnt seized and be prepared to fix if it doesnt engage.
Rust check on undercarriage. Removal solvents are sold at most places. Paint over treated areas.
Check wiring in engine bay and any openings for evidence of rodents who may have chewed or taken up shelter.
Lube ignition lock cylinder and door locks.
New treads if 6 yrs or older.
Welcome back
Fuel inj cleaner would be helpful after draining fuel. One that also removes water as that length of time in storage allows water and moisture to accumulate.
Cooling system flush cleaner through radiator and plenty of distilled water
Check that parking brake hasnt seized and be prepared to fix if it doesnt engage.
Rust check on undercarriage. Removal solvents are sold at most places. Paint over treated areas.
Check wiring in engine bay and any openings for evidence of rodents who may have chewed or taken up shelter.
Lube ignition lock cylinder and door locks.
New treads if 6 yrs or older.
Welcome back
Mar 3, 2019 | 10:03 AM
#5
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Military? Thanks for your service. oorraah!
Like Scope says^^^^ Don't fix what's not broken.
Pls my post on 22RE Charging system.
Also fix starter relay wiring that was done WRONG AT THE FACTORY. Search "clicknostart" or "clicknocrank"
Like Scope says^^^^ Don't fix what's not broken.
Pls my post on 22RE Charging system.
Also fix starter relay wiring that was done WRONG AT THE FACTORY. Search "clicknostart" or "clicknocrank"
Mar 3, 2019 | 05:36 PM
#6
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The thermostat is about 6 years old and shocks I’m assuming need replaced they have rust all over them. Some of what I’m doing is just preventative maintenance since I’m already messing around with stuff. I wanted to upgrade the alternator because I have a sound system with an amp that powers the sub and door speakers. I read up that it’ll help with the electronics by having a higher amp output. I’ve found some direct fit but they’re 200-300. I was thinking about just taking the old one in and having the shop remanufacture it to a higher output
Mar 3, 2019 | 06:30 PM
#7
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But how are you supposed to know that existing alt is not enough for your application? Trust what you hear from others?
... was thinking about just taking the old one in and having the shop remanufacture it to a higher output
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Mar 4, 2019 | 12:26 AM
#8
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But how are you supposed to know that existing alt is not enough for your application? Trust what you hear from others?
Depends on how much it would cost. But how are u supposed to verify that the "remaned" alt is really higher output than stock? Take the shop's word for it, or have existing tested, have new tested and compare results? Who's gonna do that and how much would it cost?
Depends on how much it would cost. But how are u supposed to verify that the "remaned" alt is really higher output than stock? Take the shop's word for it, or have existing tested, have new tested and compare results? Who's gonna do that and how much would it cost?
I’m sure what I have is fine but I just wanna step it up and have a little overkill because taxes are coming and I’ll be rich. I’m waiting for the week to start so I can call and ask how much it it would be to rebuild. But yeah if I had mine rebuilt I’d get it tested obviously so I know what output it now has. I’m just trying to avoid paying 260 which is the lowest I can find one for. Does anyone know of a cheaper site or a different vehicle make that can cross reference over to a Toyota?
Mar 4, 2019 | 07:05 AM
#9
Search on this forum for 22re alternator upgrade. I'm pretty sure I found a thread on here about using a different alt from I think an mr2 turbo, that was like 20 or 30 apps higher than the stock 22re output. I might have had to do a pulley swap but the alt bolted on and plugged in. With yours being an '88, you would probably have to swap the plug for the newer style too
Mar 4, 2019 | 12:04 PM
#10
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LOL! That always helps.
Search this forum for CS-130 (https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hm...s/3728021.html). That way you already know that alternator is rated at 100 amps. Less trouble than having someone tear apart a perfectly good one to "re-wind" it. Minimal mechanical modification is needed.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Mar 4, 2019 at 12:06 PM.
Mar 5, 2019 | 11:23 AM
#11
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From: Northern Colorado
Your sound system won't put enough of a load on your electrical system to notice the difference. Just because that amp you bought says 200 (or 300 or 600) watts doesn't mean it's using that much except for very brief intervals. Generally the average power output of a very loud car stereo system is 20 watts or less. You ears will bleed at more than that. That's an average current of less than two amps, which your stock alternator won't notice. Those several hundred amplifier watts are very useful to cleanly reproduce musical peaks, which generally last a few 10's of milliseconds, but it's unlikely your amplifier even has adequate heat-sinking to survive outputting 200 watts continuously.
Offroad lights (non-LED's) and winches are about the only real reason to upgrade your alternator.
Offroad lights (non-LED's) and winches are about the only real reason to upgrade your alternator.
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