KidSheleen

Well, I'm ashamed that is has "only" taken me about 4 years to get my 94 T100 back on the road (actually I still need VA State Registration and Safety Inspection, but that's not the point now).

The T100 has been kind of sitting around for 3-4 years just getting a start now and then. I installed new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, valve cover gaskets, rear cam seal gaskets, and cleaned a ton of carbon out of the intake plenum. When I first started the 3VZE it ran like crap. I got most of that fixed by actually putting plugs #3 and #5 on the correct spot on the distributor and put the vacuum lines back to where they were supposed to be. I was getting generally a rough idle and a bad miss still in #5. I hoped that I put the injector electrical connector back on properly because I really didn't want to take the plenum off again.

I assumed "bad gasoline" was one of the problems so I made two trips to the gas station with a 5 gallon tank and bought a bottle of Sea Foam. After letting the engine run for an hour plus, the new gas and Sea Foam really fixed a large percentage of the rough idle, it's just a random pop or slight stumble at the exhaust pipe.

I went to an acquaintances' independent Toyota/Lexus service and repair shop and I told him my current situation and experience. He said my injectors were probably still dirty. He went into the back of his shop and came out with a can of Toyota Fuel Injector Cleaner. He said to hook it up to my fuel rail and run the engine for about an hour. He said I didn't need any pressure to force the cleaner into the rail but that the cleaner will slowly be sucked in. I asked him how do I hook this can up and he said to just go online and get the assembly to connect the can with the fuel rail. I think that I have attached two photos of the can.

Anyway, the directions on the back of the can are: "This product is designed to be used only with the Toyota Fuel Injector Cleaning Apparatus. Detailed instructions are provided with the apparatus.

IMPORTANT: Be sure shut-off valve is closed and pressure regulator backed off completely before screwing aerosol can into apparatus.

• Hand tighten can onto apparatus.
• Follow Toyota Fuel Injector Apparatus operating instructions.
• At completion of cleaning, remove empty can and dispose of properly

IMPORTANT: Immediately following cleaning, reconnect fuel system, run engine for 3 minutes to prevent possible "O" ring damage".


So, what is this "Apparatus"? It sounds like something more than just a banjo fitting, tubing and a screw cap. I did a Google, Bing and eBay search and came up with nothing that I could justify buying. Maybe I'll just return the can of cleaner and let the the guy know that I couldn't find an adapter.

Rerunn

Basically what you would do with this is pull the fuel pump relay and connect the can directly to the fuel rail. I've used it here at the dealership and it is that simple. The "apparatus" is simply a fitting for the can that attaches to a line that with another fitting attaches to the fuel rail and you let the engine run off just the cleaner. Now you will need to block off the fuel return line or else as soon as you hook the can up all the cleaner will wind up in the fuel tank and not in the injectors.

KidSheleen

Well, that makes sense. I guess if I can't find a specific "apparatus" I might be able to cobble one together. Something like this: a banjo fitting for the fuel rail, an adapter for the can of cleaner and a shutoff valve in between? It would be similar to a cheapo A/C recharge kit. I'll Google some more before I start gathering the adapters.

Thanks - Mark

Rerunn

That's is basically what we do lol

RAD4Runner

Cool! Pls post pics of how you did it.

RAD4Runner

Cool! Pls post pics of how you did it.

Guys,
Just wondering... Would a can like this fuel an engine for an hour, or it has to be mixed in with regular fuel?

Rerunn

The can isn't big enough it'll run of just it for a few minutes.

RAD4Runner

Thanks. That's what I thought
So "...to hook it up to my fuel rail and run the engine for about an hour. He said I didn't need any pressure to force the cleaner into the rail but that the cleaner will slowly be sucked in..." meant that system will suck fuel injector cleaning solution in with regular fuel.

Regards,
RAD

Rerunn

Eh....All that will end up doing is over pressurizing the fuel rail and go straight into the tank.

KidSheleen

Well, that's what the shop owner said. Maybe he dis-remembered that I have a 3VZE and assumed that I had a Schrader valve on the fuel rail. I don't think I have one AFAIK. He's 5 minutes away from my place of business so I'll spin by again and ask for some more specifics and maybe have him show me his "apparatus". He was really busy the day I stopped by and since I didn't owe him any money he kind of brisked me off (unintentionally I hope). For the time being I'm going to approach this like Rerunn suggested. I don't doubt the owner's knowledge. He told me EXACTLY how to reset my SRS system. Something that I had been fighting for a very long time.

Also, I was looking at some of the A/C recharge kits and it looks like the adapter that fits to the refrigerant can would almost work with the injector cleaner can. Just looking, it seems that the Toyota can has finer threads but then...

Thanks - Mark

KidSheleen

Sorry folks but it seems that the injectors were not messed up too much. I got my antique Sears inductive strobe timing light out tonight just to check the timing. Crossing TE1 and E1 @ around 800 RPMs I was way left, just guessing, maybe 30 45 degrees BTC. I turned the distributor counter clockwise and the best that I could get was about 15 degrees BTC, but that made a huge difference. Maybe this weekend when I have more time I'll try to get around 12 degrees BTC but I am semi-satisfied where I am now. The engine purrs like it should, no stumbles or misses that I could see, feel or hear.

I don't have a tachometer (I haven't used one in decades) so I just used the dash tachometer to figure I was close to 800 RPMs. I really need to get off my wallet and get another tachometer. I was looking through my pile of crap in my shed and I found the instructions to an old Sears tach-dwell meter I had but no tachometer.

If I can't get the timing back to around 12 degrees BTC I am probably looking at replacing the timing belt (idler, water pump). It has maybe been 120,000 miles since the last time it was changed (currently just less than 234,000).

I'll still try to hookup this can of injector cleaner to my fuel rail since I already have the can. I guess it can't hurt.

Thanks - Mark

KidSheleen

^^^^
I lied. The engine idled okay but the next morning it ran like crap. I'll start a new thread on that.