total failure.
#1
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Thread Starter
total failure.
I decided to do the front main seal this morning and wait to do the timing chain and other things until I've got more time and a little more confidence.
The result was a complete failure on my part. I got everything taken apart and out of the way so I could get the crank pulley off and then couldn't even get the dang crank bolt off. So I put it all back together and took the parts back. Good news is that I don't think I messed anything up, well other than having to cut the AC belt to get it off, but now I have a whistle that sounds like a turbo spooling up when give it fuel. Strange but it sounds neat.
I'm going to find a beer and contemplate my lack of knowledge on this thing. Heck compared to this swaping out thirds and installing a locker was a damn breeze.
Laters.
The result was a complete failure on my part. I got everything taken apart and out of the way so I could get the crank pulley off and then couldn't even get the dang crank bolt off. So I put it all back together and took the parts back. Good news is that I don't think I messed anything up, well other than having to cut the AC belt to get it off, but now I have a whistle that sounds like a turbo spooling up when give it fuel. Strange but it sounds neat.
I'm going to find a beer and contemplate my lack of knowledge on this thing. Heck compared to this swaping out thirds and installing a locker was a damn breeze.
Laters.
#2
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
I use a 19mm impact socket and breaker bar laid over against the frame then bump the starter (disconnect coil wire) and it'll usually pop that nut loose:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#CylinderHead
Should not have had to cut the A/C belt, there is a tensioner pulley for that belt. Loosen the nut in the center of the pulley then back off the tensioner bolt and the belt should come right off.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#CylinderHead
Should not have had to cut the A/C belt, there is a tensioner pulley for that belt. Loosen the nut in the center of the pulley then back off the tensioner bolt and the belt should come right off.
#3
Contributing Member
Only way to learn is do it and learn from your mistakes. My shop foreman will sometimes watch me and know I'm making a mistake but says nothing unless it's something that will really be costly. After scractching my head and finally figure it out my foreman will tell me a better or easier way to do a job. He's often told me if he holds my hand then I won't learn anything so he allows me to make mistakes first.
The noise could be anything... alternator bearing going out, waterpump, p.s. pump. Just try to locate the noise more specifically and fix it from there. Good luck.
The noise could be anything... alternator bearing going out, waterpump, p.s. pump. Just try to locate the noise more specifically and fix it from there. Good luck.
#4
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#8
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Thread Starter
I use a 19mm impact socket and breaker bar laid over against the frame then bump the starter (disconnect coil wire) and it'll usually pop that nut loose:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#CylinderHead
Should not have had to cut the A/C belt, there is a tensioner pulley for that belt. Loosen the nut in the center of the pulley then back off the tensioner bolt and the belt should come right off.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#CylinderHead
Should not have had to cut the A/C belt, there is a tensioner pulley for that belt. Loosen the nut in the center of the pulley then back off the tensioner bolt and the belt should come right off.
I relaxed the A/C tensioner to the point that I removed it and still had less than an inch of play between the compressor and the water pump pulley, old belt that would not come off no matter how I pryed on it.
Man 4Crawler I feel like such an ass for not being able to do this on my own. Everything I've tried on this rig has gone off without any problems at all. I just figured today would be the same. You have no idea how bothered I am that I couldn't get this done on my own.....
#9
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#10
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iTrader: (3)
The starter method works flawlessly, if you prefer, think of it as an "electric impact wrench". I fooled with mine by hand, then first one old and then a new 1/2" impact and nothing was happening. I did break one socket (it was old) trying to remove that nut, but nothing other than it split on the end and fell off the nut. New socket and off it came with just a flick of the key.
But if the truck is moving, put it in 4H and 4th or 5th gear (lower gears make it easy for the engine - or you - to turn the wheels, you want to make it hard to turn them), e-brake on then put some blocks in FRONT of the tires. Then it should come off with your breaker bar.
But if the truck is moving, put it in 4H and 4th or 5th gear (lower gears make it easy for the engine - or you - to turn the wheels, you want to make it hard to turn them), e-brake on then put some blocks in FRONT of the tires. Then it should come off with your breaker bar.
#11
Registered User
If moving the pulley bolt is just moving your truck, stick the damn e-brake on. If your e-brake doesn't work, chock the wheels.
You'll want a gear puller to pull the pulley off once you get the bolt loose too.
You'll want a gear puller to pull the pulley off once you get the bolt loose too.
#12
Contributing Member
iTrader: (3)
It is possible to get that crank pulley bolt off without using the starter if you are that worried. Like was mentioned, put the tranny in 4th or 5th and lock the hubs and put it 4hi. Then take a stick and jam the brake pedal all the way to the floor to hold it there. No need to set the ebrake because now you have front and rear brakes holding. Use a 12 point 19mm socket and braker bar with a healthy pipe extension and it should break free just fine.
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