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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Total brake failure

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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 04:54 PM
  #1  
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Total brake failure

I have twice lost a line which resulted in TOTAL brake failure. I have heard of this happening to other people.

Is this a defective LSPV or a defective design?

Thanks!
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 12:08 AM
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From: Wilton, CA
no, its cheap parts or incorrectly installed parts...
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
Knowing which line might help.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 07:40 PM
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Does your truck have a lift?
Did you extend your brake lines?
Do you wheel it?
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:33 PM
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From: Shakopee, MN
both of the lines that run from the passenger front to the rear of my truck have blown out from rust and age. the PO had installed them into the wrong ports on the LPSV so i had no rear breaks when i got the truck till i moved the ports around.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:35 PM
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
Originally Posted by the_ocho
both of the lines that run from the passenger front to the rear of my truck have blown out from rust and age. the PO had installed them into the wrong ports on the LPSV so i had no rear breaks when i got the truck till i moved the ports around.
So that means that the front brake circuit was directly operating the rear brake circuit?
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:41 PM
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From: Shakopee, MN
well the port out of the lpsv to the axle had one of the Lines form the front plugged into it and the other line from the front was in the correct spot and the line from the axle wasn't hooked up to anything, i dont remember who it was maybe it was you abe who helped me with that, MN winter with only front breaks was fun
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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From: Shakopee, MN
Actually it was you Abe, Thanks again you always seem to be the one to help me, rear breaks and then my TPS last night, Your the best
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
don't remember.
anyhow, it's better to have only front brakes than only rear brakes. when wheels lock up, the vehicle tends to follow the locked wheels. so imagine if the rears locked up: the vehicle would 180 rather rapidly. found that out when I was 7 and was in to legos.

Last edited by abecedarian; Jun 8, 2009 at 08:47 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:48 PM
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From: Shakopee, MN
yea but loosing steering isnt the best either.... i got real good at letting off the breaks in order to stop lol
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:50 PM
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
Originally Posted by the_ocho
yea but loosing steering isnt the best either.... i got real good at letting off the breaks in order to stop lol
Isn't that how anti-lock brakes work?
When wheels lock up, they release the brakes so you can maintain traction, no?
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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From: Shakopee, MN
Anti-lock breaks, whats that? lol i havent had those since my F150
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:03 PM
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From: Temecula Valley, CA
Originally Posted by the_ocho
Anti-lock breaks, whats that? lol i havent had those since my F150
lol. I know you know better.

But that's why 1st gen anti-lock brakes on trucks only worked for the rear: keeping the rear from locking up means that only the front will lock and the vehicle will not spin out of control... though it might 'slide' out of control, releasing the brake pedal should allow the front wheels to gain some traction and let you steer a bit. More advanced ABS can control the brakes on each wheel independently... but that's not for our trucks.
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:12 PM
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From: Shakopee, MN
The rear anti-lock never worked for me probably because of the ports being messed up by the P.O. I just pulled the light out of the dash a few weeks ago when i did my L.E.D. conversion. im not worried about it, I'm so O.C.D. when i drive, all my friends think i need to relax. i guess thats why im the only one who hasn't wrecked a car( on road that is. iv done my fair share of totaling trucks off road haha) or ever been pulled over for a moving violation. just my damn stereo haha
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 12:06 AM
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From: Olympia, WA
You might consider replacing the LSPV with a manual one and replacing all the break lines (just need a flare tool). Something to consider if your lines are rusted out.

They are notorious for rusting out over the gas tank, mud/debri builds up there and burries the lines which holds moisture around the lines... ie rust.

Would be a tedious job but considering your brakes can be your life, one worth doing IMO
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 06:26 AM
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From: Calgary, AB
I had the rear line on mine go a few weeks ago due to rust and debris. I pulled the LSPV out (so if you need one, let me know and I'll let it go for cheap), pulled both front and rear lines that ran back to it, capped off the front line and ran a new rear line.

Now I can get my rear ABS to engage on dry pavement. Something I never, ever felt before.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 03:44 PM
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First time was compensating line (Backwards, into the trees) .

Second time is right rear. (Frontwards into the Shop door)

No-one else has experienced this?? I guess it has to be a bad LSPV or master.

Wilwood prop valve for me!

Thanks!!
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 07:22 AM
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Turns out that:

1. I hand a slow leak in rear.

2. The front master piston fluid uncovers from fluid resevoir first, when level is low.

No fluid in front, leak in rear, equals total brake failure.

Never noticed a degradation in brake performance

Dash brake light is paralleled from BOTH master cylinder level switch and park brake off switch. Light's been lit from parking brake for awhile. I used to push the handle in, after awhile I ASSUMED it was the parking brake, and ignored it.......

Lesson learned: maintain the dash light and believe it.

Hope this helps someone.
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